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> My 73 Suby drivetrain conversion upgrade!, Added a quick video on page 25
JRust
post Feb 14 2017, 12:18 PM
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QUOTE(mgp4591 @ Feb 13 2017, 10:58 PM) *

You'll probably be fine with that one, but consider what upgrades you may want to make in the future. If the price is still reasonable, there's no issue with being overly prepared... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

When I upgrade it will be another complete drivetrain swap (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) . I'm turning into Mike Bellis (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

I ordered that setup last night. It should be just fine but we will see. Will be pretty easy to swap to a heavier clutch if it slips. Now I need to find the thread for the size hose I need for my hydraulic clutch
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76-914
post Feb 14 2017, 12:21 PM
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QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 14 2017, 10:18 AM) *

QUOTE(mgp4591 @ Feb 13 2017, 10:58 PM) *

You'll probably be fine with that one, but consider what upgrades you may want to make in the future. If the price is still reasonable, there's no issue with being overly prepared... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

When I upgrade it will be another complete drivetrain swap (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) . I'm turning into Mike Bellis (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

I ordered that setup last night. It should be just fine but we will see. Will be pretty easy to swap to a heavier clutch if it slips. Now I need to find the thread for the size hose I need for my hydraulic clutch

AN-3
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JRust
post Feb 19 2017, 05:54 PM
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Haven't made much progress. Got some bug over the weekend so spent it pretty much sleeping & watching tv. I did get the locking spool, rear plate & tranny hangars on. Hopefully next weekend I'll feel better. Still need to get my old motor on a pallet & shipped.

Then I'm going to put my new setup on my hydraulic table. Put it up in my engine bay. Attach the tranny hangar's. Then measure things out with my motor. I've got some decisions to make. I either build another cradle. Do the firewall mount done by a few here. I have the small car mount on it. Then once it is in place. I am going to see about just making something close to the stock early motor mount bar. I've just got to see how everything lines up.

I'm waiting on my new clutch kit. Also the An3 lines for the clutch. I also need to pull my pedal cluster. Get the plate installed & hole drilled for the MC for clutch.


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JRust
post Mar 3 2017, 12:24 AM
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Okay a little progress. Took a me a bit but I got my old drivetrain shipped off to Rick. Bolted up my tranny to my new motor. Wanted to do a little test fitting tonight. With my tranny hangar's bolted to the tranny. I bolted the rear in place. My header is just hitting my battery mount which is lower on the firewall. I think it will still work there. Just may need to be unbolted & then put back on with my motor is in place. Probably the least of my worries at this point.

A few years ago when I was working on a subaru conversion before buying this one. I was using a 901 with an adapter plate to the motor I had. I had a small car mount on the suby motor with a tab welded on the front. It joined the mount in front & gave a nice flat surface. I was able to use an early stock 914 engine bar as well as the rubber motor mounts. I am looking to do something similar here. My small car mount sits pretty level with my headers. My shortened oil pan sits about an inch & a half below these headers. Using a stock engine bar it will sit level with my oil pan. Just need to add a piece to the small car mount that will let it mount on the engine bar. I'll post some pics when I've got it done. For anyone running the headers out back this would work even better.


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JRust
post Mar 9 2017, 09:12 PM
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Did a little more test fitting. With the tranny hangar's it sits a little low. It can go up another inch at the least & I think closer to 2. Compared to my previous cradle & tranny setup. Which definitely sat up higher. Where it sits now I wouldn't need the cutout for the starter & clutch fork. I would rather have it sitting up higher even if it means a small cutout in the truck. Of course I also have the cuts already so only makes sense to keep it that way. Things do line up nicely to use an early stock engine bar. With a little customized piece attaching to the front of the small car motor mounts.

Anyway thats all I have time for. Heading to Dallas for a week for work. Then a stop in Phoenix to golf & catch a spring training game or 2. Plus a bonus I get to meet Rich. He bought my original suby drivetrain. So we'll get to talk 914's & conversions for a bit next Friday morning. Couple pics of it up in place. I also put the intake back to stock. Was going to flip it but that won't work with me doing A/C. Won't be to big a deal on the intake. I'll just use a similar bend to what I had before. Instead of it going to an air filter it will got to my Intercooler. Just going to start with the stock air intercooler & see what kind of results I get. Most likely will end up with a different intercooler setup. For my initial install it will be fine.


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matthepcat
post Mar 9 2017, 10:23 PM
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Looks great. You should consider water to air for the inter-cooler (I know you are thinking that).

I'm curious why the A/C wont work with a flipped intake manifold?
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JRust
post Mar 9 2017, 10:50 PM
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QUOTE(matthepcat @ Mar 9 2017, 08:23 PM) *

Looks great. You should consider water to air for the inter-cooler (I know you are thinking that).

I'm curious why the A/C wont work with a flipped intake manifold?

I am considering water to air yes. On the A/C the problem really isn't the a/c itself but the alternator. With the intake flipped the alternator is in the way of the intake. The options would be to add a 1" spacer below the intake between the throttle bodies. With another inch height it would clear & be fine.

The other issue I have is with the turbo & the a/c. Which I do need to remedy as the turbo is right up against the a/c compressor. Which with my setup the oil lines go in right there. Easiest change there is a 1" spacer between the header & the turbo. That would move it up & clear it. Or if I could bend my header towards the firewall a little bit that would also fix the problem.
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Chris914n6
post Mar 9 2017, 11:04 PM
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QUOTE(JRust @ Mar 9 2017, 07:12 PM) *

Flip the mount and assemble it correctly (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) and it looks like you'll be golden.
Can you clock the turbo bearing assm to get the oil lines to clear everything?
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JRust
post Mar 10 2017, 12:02 AM
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QUOTE(Chris914n6 @ Mar 9 2017, 09:04 PM) *

Flip the mount and assemble it correctly (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) and it looks like you'll be golden.
Can you clock the turbo bearing assm to get the oil lines to clear everything?

What mount would you be referring too?
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76-914
post Mar 10 2017, 10:29 AM
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Looking good Jamie. You'll enjoy the AC. No reason to not have AC in the 21st Century with your set up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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A&P Mech
post Jul 20 2017, 12:54 PM
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Jamie, are you smoking the tires off the rims yet? Please tell me the reason you haven't posted since March is because you are to busy driving the wheels off that car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
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Andyrew
post Jul 20 2017, 01:27 PM
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I think you should triangulate those rear trani mounts, or weld in a bolt in bar that connects the two. I have a feeling that the trani is going to sway side to side like that. I originally had mine like that then added a brace as I could move it by hand some and knew that over time that would cause a stress fracture in the steel or transmission mount.


Love the progress BTW!
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76-914
post Jul 20 2017, 01:37 PM
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He's probably gnawing at the bits as we speak. I think Jamie's hands are currently bound with the purchase of a new home and all. Otherwise, I'd have added Jamie to my Slacker thread along with Stephen. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)
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JRust
post Jul 31 2017, 11:24 PM
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Well not a whole hell of a lot of progress. Bought a house. Now remodeling said house. = no time to work on my car. Nor money to boot. I did happen to get my cradle from Ian at Coldwater. I took it to Linex to Bedline it. Got it back & it looks great. I also ordered the cable shift system from Xero Decibel Motorsports.

Here is the order I hope to get to things.
1. Install my hydraulic clutch MC with it's bracket.
2. Make hydraulic line
3. Get my stage 2 clutch installed.
4. Mate the transmission back up to the motor.
5. Install drivetrain
6. Wire ECU
7. Take to muffler shop for Exhaust
8. Fire it up & hopefully smile from ear to ear

Only thing holding me back is my damn kitchen. Was to small & cramped. So I took out a wall & worthless pantry. Picked up some more kitchen cabinets for the expansion. In taking out sheetrock I found the stairs that sit behind my kitchen wall. There is a nice big area with nothing there. I have a nice 36x36x6 feet tall space. Then a large area below the stairs. So now I'm putting a Pantry in that corner with will be much bigger & more useful than the one I had originally. Plus still expanding my kitchen. Then all new wood flooring to replace some ugly carpet. All of which means I am busy after work every night & on the weekends. Plus has demolished my car fund (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) . In the end my wife better be damn happy


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914forme
post Aug 1 2017, 05:51 AM
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Why is number 7 before number 8. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

F number 7 until number 8 happens.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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Chris H.
post Aug 1 2017, 07:47 AM
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Hey Jamie you will get more starter clearance if you switch to a later model one. I just installed part # 23300AA560. Fits perfectly. The solenoid and stuff is positioned to the left instead of directly above the starter housing like the old one was. I can close up the hole I made for the old one now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) .
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76-914
post Aug 1 2017, 10:06 AM
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QUOTE(Chris H. @ Aug 1 2017, 06:47 AM) *

Hey Jamie you will get more starter clearance if you switch to a later model one. I just installed part # 23300AA560. Fits perfectly. The solenoid and stuff is positioned to the left instead of directly above the starter housing like the old one was. I can close up the hole I made for the old one now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) .

Leave it. It's nice to have access to that area. Easy access to the slave cylinder as well. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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JRust
post Aug 1 2017, 10:52 PM
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QUOTE(Chris H. @ Aug 1 2017, 06:47 AM) *

Hey Jamie you will get more starter clearance if you switch to a later model one. I just installed part # 23300AA560. Fits perfectly. The solenoid and stuff is positioned to the left instead of directly above the starter housing like the old one was. I can close up the hole I made for the old one now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) .

Yeah I have 2 used starters I picked up with both of my transmissions. I think one lays over more than the other. I'll test fit them both. If neither of them is I'll use your part # to get the right one. Appreciate you adding the part# (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chowtime.gif)
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jimkelly
post Aug 2 2017, 02:32 PM
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ditto - thanks for suggestion on later starter and its pn (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

my starter from 1990 legacy mt and it looks like my starter won't be a problem but i will have to probably cut trunk for clutch arm and clutch cable.


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JRust
post Feb 1 2018, 07:41 PM
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Okay I haven't done jack (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif) since I moved to our new home in June. This saturday I plan to install my MC for my hydraulic clutch. Just a little progress but I need to start somewhere. If I can get that done maybe I will feel inspired to do more. Need to unbolt my tranny & install my clutch too. So I am posting this so you can alll give me grief if it doesn't happen (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif)
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