Air/Fuel ratio, is there a quick answer? Options

[malcolm2]

Of course, there shall be no vacuum leaks...

That is where the AWESOME smoke machine comes in.

I still see some wisps of smoke, but very little. I think I will smoke it a bit in the morning and see if I can knock the remainder out.

The dip stick was one. I added an o-ring but have not re-smoked since that addition.

The hose to the fuel reg was one, but I had some slack in the hose, so I cut it off a bit.

I seemed to see some coming from under the distributor. Is that possible?

These are very lite amounts of smoke, very tuff to tell for sure.

[Mueller]

I don't like to see much higher than 13:1 in an iron cylinder engine, my nickies engine I can easily run 14:1 no problem.
I can really see the performance degrade as the temps go up in a iron cylinder engine if you run much over 13:1, the nickies equipped engines doesn't suffer from this issue.

Deceleration it doesn't matter...no load.
I have a fuel cut below a certain TPS setting so on decel my meter goes off the scale.
Fuel cut stops popping and/or backfiring on decel on wild cam engines.

plays with cars I'll have to say you are wrong, those number might be fine on a watercooled car, but aircooled always needs to be a bit on the rich side.
Trying for those numbers on an aircooled and you will hole a piston.

Big issue on a performance, wild cam, ITB Type 4 is your vacuum signal will be total shit. This gives the MAP sensor a horrid signal that peeps chase forever, often blaming the FI system.
I run TPS/O2 only program on my T4 2600cc engine, zero issues, runs on par with a modern FI car.

Is there some sort of limp home mode if something with the O2 circuit craps out?

Can you run 2 O2's for redundancy?

[timothy_nd28]

If you have smoke coming out from the dizzy, you will need to replace the shafts' O ring.

[malcolm2]

If you have smoke coming out from the dizzy, you will need to replace the shafts' O ring.

well damn. That is what I thought might be the issue. If the smoke is coming from there. That damn WASHER is gonna cause problems, and then I have to set the timing again. Who sells them? Guess I better check the parts catalog for a part #.

Tim, You are always telling me bad news. It is usually right. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bootyshake.gif)

EDIT>>> I found them. AA has them for $1. it is always a nickel holding up a dollar on this car.

And AA just closed 9 minutes ago.

[timothy_nd28]

AA is now closed, so now your thinking RTV? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

You should also check for vacuum leaks at the valve covers while your waiting.

[Mark Henry]

I don't like to see much higher than 13:1 in an iron cylinder engine, my nickies engine I can easily run 14:1 no problem.
I can really see the performance degrade as the temps go up in a iron cylinder engine if you run much over 13:1, the nickies equipped engines doesn't suffer from this issue.

Deceleration it doesn't matter...no load.
I have a fuel cut below a certain TPS setting so on decel my meter goes off the scale.
Fuel cut stops popping and/or backfiring on decel on wild cam engines.

plays with cars I'll have to say you are wrong, those number might be fine on a watercooled car, but aircooled always needs to be a bit on the rich side.
Trying for those numbers on an aircooled and you will hole a piston.

Big issue on a performance, wild cam, ITB Type 4 is your vacuum signal will be total shit. This gives the MAP sensor a horrid signal that peeps chase forever, often blaming the FI system.
I run TPS/O2 only program on my T4 2600cc engine, zero issues, runs on par with a modern FI car.

Is there some sort of limp home mode if something with the O2 circuit craps out?

Can you run 2 O2's for redundancy?

My system it runs, just take it easy on the go pedal. only thing that can really go wrong is fuse wiring or more likely the sensor.

[Mark Henry]

Just a FYI, PLX has their O2 WB meters on sale $160 for the gauge type or $190 for the bluetooth.
Bluetooth has no gauge, you use your phone, tab, ipad, etc., but you can also install a gauge for extra coin.

http://www.plxdevices.com/PLX-Wideband-O2-...auges-s/125.htm

[malcolm2]

Just a FYI, PLX has their O2 WB meters on sale $160 for the gauge type or $190 for the bluetooth.
Bluetooth has no gauge, you use your phone, tab, ipad, etc., but you can also install a gauge for extra coin.

http://www.plxdevices.com/PLX-Wideband-O2-...auges-s/125.htm

So with bluetooth you can buy a sensor for each car then use the same "display" phone or tablet? Cool idea. I tried a bluetooth OBD2 set up. But it only works with Samsung stuff not apple.

[malcolm2]

AA is now closed, so now your thinking RTV? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

You should also check for vacuum leaks at the valve covers while your waiting.

RTV on the ditzy hole? Great idea. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Under the car? Very nice. Gotta remember to look. Charcoal is lit now.

[Mark Henry]

Just a FYI, PLX has their O2 WB meters on sale $160 for the gauge type or $190 for the bluetooth.
Bluetooth has no gauge, you use your phone, tab, ipad, etc., but you can also install a gauge for extra coin.

http://www.plxdevices.com/PLX-Wideband-O2-...auges-s/125.htm

So with bluetooth you can buy a sensor for each car tha use the same "display" phone or tablet? Cool idea. I tried a bluetooth OBD2 set up. But it only works with Samsung stuff not apple.

It says "Smartphone connection - Compatible with Apple and Android"
On the con side so far it only works with their WB and vac/boost gauges.

[malcolm2]

On WOT are you documenting at bottom value? I tend to dip to 11, then rise back to 13. I can say that this is the 1st time I ever ran the car at WOT. Kinda fun but it is acellerating so fast i get skeerd.

I ran the CO screw out 1 more rotation last night. That got me from cruising at 12.5 to 12.8.

That screw is about 4.5 turns out now.

Saturday I took a nice long interstate drive. Not too many big hills, but some WOT...(IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

The readings were as above. About 1/2 way home I turned the CO screw one more full CCW turn (OUT).

The readings at 70 mph and 3200 rpm were closer to 12.8
WOT evened out at the same 12.8
Hills also evened at 12.8

NO more adjustments and no driving 'til Monday AM but the readings changed a bit....

It was a cold morning here... 32*F

My readings during the cold drive in and the warmer drive home.
3200 & 70 mph 13.2
WOT 13.2
HILLS 12.8

It rained today, but Wednesday is clear and I'll get more readings. These are really close to Mark Henry's numbers. I am feeling like I am pretty damn close. And I am curious what this might do to my MPG.

[timothy_nd28]

Those numbers are better than the 18+ numbers you were getting earlier with a barely running engine. I think you are in the ballpark, but fine tuning is needed.

I also think it's time to re-introduce the AAV to your setup to assist with cold weather starting.

[malcolm2]

Those numbers are better than the 18+ numbers you were getting earlier with a barely running engine. I think you are in the ballpark, but fine tuning is needed.

I also think it's time to re-introduce the AAV to your setup to assist with cold weather starting.

Yeah, we thought the meter was messed up... nope, it was just super lean.

I have AAV re-install in the plan. I will probably get to it before the weekend. Time to change the oil too. Maybe my Disty O-Ring will show-up and I can add that to the list.

It has been running rich and ruff for about 2 minutes on these cold morning starts.

[stugray]

Any leaks coming from the valve cover, dipstick, or dizzy are not considered 'vacuum' leaks.
Those are crankcase vent leaks

They are supposedly important for cars with FI (not sure why other than emissions).
But a car with carbs does not care at all about crankcase venting, except you want to manage it or you will have an engine covered in oil film.

[timothy_nd28]

You tell yourself that while trying to start a Ljet with its oil cap off

[pete000]

Great read, I am in the exact situation with my 1.8 L-Jet. Even built the smoke machine to verify for no leaks. Worked great. Haven't messed with the flapper box yet, but I have a strong feeling mine is lean. My borrowed Wide band gauge is not too easy to get set up for actual driving. I think welding in a bung is next inline for me. The Innovative tail pipe quick O2 mount seems problematic.

I might just have to invest in the Blue tooth solution you shared the link to, pretty cool !

[malcolm2]

No adjustments or significant changes to the readings:

3200 & 70 mph 12.5 - 13.4
WOT 13.2
HILLS 12.8

I have run 2 tanks of fuel thru the car while using and tinkering with the AFR. I have been getting just over 25.3 MPG. no special gas, just 87 oct, e-10.

Looking back at some notes from 2016 with the OLD, now bent, AFM I averaged a bit over 22 mpg driving to work for a week.

So fixing some vacuum leaks, replacing and adjusting the AFM have gotten me a few extra mpg on daily drives, but it is early. Looking forward to burning a tank on the interstate. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving-girl.gif)

[timothy_nd28]

I think your old bent AFM was adjusted abit rich.

[malcolm2]

I think your old bent AFM was adjusted abit rich.

I have learned an old Indian trick... "plug reading" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) Shot from old bent.

[malcolm2]

Mark, I have been studying up on your AFR link from PLX. I am gonna order one this weekend. Going with the gauge model. Looks like you can just buy the blue tooth gizmo later and then use an old I-phone. So that is my plan.