914 measurements-how accurate do I need to be Options

[amfab]

After some minor welding, I wanted to check the car’s level and dimensions again. I hung the doors, made a couple of jack stand adjustments, and everything looks pretty good.
I measured key dimensions and I am wondering how precise I need to be.

I measured:

• -Between roll bar and windshield flange (f) and both sides are on the factory dimensions within less than 1/32nd of an inch.
• -Diagonal distance across roof opening (x) measured between outer corner of roll bar and inner edge of roof on opposite side—both are right on the factory dimensions within less than 32nd of an inch.
• -Diagonal distance across passenger compartment (y) measured between outer corner of roll bar and outer edge of lower hole for hinge—again, right on the factory dimensions within less than a 32nd of an inch.

These measurements are essentially dead on. I think the inaccuracy is probably because of my measuring ability.

I also measured between the hinge and door lock pillars (h). These are a little big. They are about 3/64 of an inch more than the factory dimensions, but they are the same on each side.

With all the other dimensions being so accurate and the doors looking pretty good, I am wondering if I am being too worried about the precision of this.

Or am I?

Are these numbers pretty good for a car made in the 70s?

Thanks,

-Andrew

[tygaboy]

I'd say if you're that close, you're well within the tolerances.
That said, when you're measuring, be sure the car is supported in the same way that the suspension will load the chassis. I've noticed that depending where I've supported my chassis, and if the drive train is in it or not, I can see measurable flex at the "f" locations.
But my car is currently missing the lower firewall, jack plates and rear half of the floor so YMMV.
If they don't chime in, you may want to PM Rick-918-S, ScottyB or Jeff Hail. They have tons of experience. I'd defer to them for the straight poop on chassis stuff.

Chris

[amfab]

Thanks Chris. I am a bit paranoid because I did not go through removing the suspension and making a jig.

I am supporting the car with stands at the front of the torsion bar tubes and the bars that stick out at the rear suspension console. I think that is pretty close to how the suspension puts pressure on the chassis.

However,

I also have screw-type adjustable stands with a bar across the back of the floor pan and one on the rear of the transmission. These add support as I work to remove rusty metal or weld in new metal. I jacked the car up and lowered it on the main stands, and screwed the other stands upward to support. Even though I screwed them tight, I think the main stands are carrying the majority of the weight.

This is how I plan to keep it supported for the long repairs and the front of the Brad Mayeur kit install. I will have to switch the rear jack stand position to install the rear parts of the Mayeur kit as they bolt to the console. I was thinking of using the engine mount bar as I do that. Then I will switch back to the console bar to do the lower firewall and floor pan.

Thanks

-Andrew