Advice needed on fitting RD rear floor pan at crossmember area |
|
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG.
This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way. Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners. |
|
Advice needed on fitting RD rear floor pan at crossmember area |
doug_b_928 |
Feb 17 2017, 09:33 AM
Post
#1
|
Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 692 Joined: 17-January 13 From: Winnipeg Member No.: 15,382 Region Association: Canada |
I have the RD rear floor pan replacement piece. I'm looking for advice on how best to install it at the trans crossmember area.
I cut out the area underneath the rear trunk reinforcement (because I butchered that area not realizing that it was spot welded on top and to see what it's like inside). I still need to remove the remaining spot welded bit of the original rear trunk floor (didn't have time to do that yet). Here's a pic: It would be nice to cut the whole thing to blast the inside and epoxy prime it. But, my concern is getting a nice finished edge on the weld seam on the crossmember. As it is now I can cut the RD piece to fit my current hole and most, if not all, of my repair work at the crossmember area would be covered by the new trunk reinforcement. In this scenario I'd just be replaceing the rear floor and the section of the crossmember under the trunk reinforement. I could spray some cavity wax or some other product into the crossmember to try to deal with the the rust in there. Though, I suspect the better option is to cut the whole thing, which raises another question. If I cut the whole crossmember, what is the best way to make the seam between the RD part and the existing? Here's a pic of the measurement of the existing crossmember (from where it starts to raise it's profile). From where the profile raises to where it lowers is about 2 3/4". And here's a pic of the RD part measuring from the same spot. From where the profile raises to the end of the panel (It's just straight on the front end, so doesn't come back down) is about 3 5/16". So, if I cut the whole crossmember, what's the best way to make the seam? Here's what I'm thinking: Cut the crossmember but leave enough to flange, flange it, then cut the RD piece to fit over the flange, spot weld to the flange and bead weld the seam, grind smooth as possible then a bit of filler to remove any imperfections. I don't want to spray seam sealer on these seams because it wouldn't look correct. I could leave the RD piece longer in the area of the trunk reinforcement and bend that area in a brake to meet the trunk floor in front of the crossmember. How would you guys do it? |
cary |
Feb 18 2017, 08:21 AM
Post
#2
|
Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,900 Joined: 26-January 04 From: Sherwood Oregon Member No.: 1,608 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
http://www.caswellcanada.ca/shop/product.p...at=0&page=1
A little pricey. I think its $26 US off the shelf. Another place to look. https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrom...+store+winnipeg https://www.walmart.com/ip/RL-Flo-Master-1-...prayer/13376324 One must remember. Whatever we do is better than what the factory did 40 years ago. Raw Steel. And our cars wont see as much outside weather as the cars first 20 years. This is the Eastwood product I use in areas I can't get to. Sprayed in with a compressor and undercoating gun. |
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 4th May 2024 - 08:51 AM |
All rights reserved 914World.com © since 2002 |
914World.com is the fastest growing online 914 community! We have it all, classifieds, events, forums, vendors, parts, autocross, racing, technical articles, events calendar, newsletter, restoration, gallery, archives, history and more for your Porsche 914 ... |