AAV testing, Manual and electric |
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AAV testing, Manual and electric |
malcolm2 |
Feb 20 2017, 05:59 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,745 Joined: 31-May 11 From: Nashville Member No.: 13,139 Region Association: South East States |
Ok. I have had the AAV off for a couple weeks now. I figured it was time to re-install. Wanted to test it first.
I put it in the freezer. The valve was open before and after. I got the wife hair dryer out and got it hot enough to NOT hold on to. But the valve stayed open. I got my drill battery out and jumped it to the connector. Very quickly the valve closed. I decided to blow threw it. Air did not move quickly thru it, but i could hear the hissing as it came out. So the question is: is the AAV supposed to close up tight? |
pete000 |
Feb 21 2017, 04:01 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,885 Joined: 23-August 10 From: Bradenton Florida Member No.: 12,094 Region Association: South East States |
I found with the 12 heating the AAR it takes around 3 minutes to close up. Air does bleed by the valve and it is not a total block. I also found out mine would not close until the engine got up to full operating temperature (Hot) this would then close the valve. Turned out my AAR is not receiving voltage from the connector. Any one know where the wires go ?
They disappear into the harness. I think I read the negative is switched from the ECU? As a quick fix I was thinking about just hooking up 12 volts from the switched position of the ignition to supply power to the AAR. *Also I found soaking them in Kerosene for a day will free them up. |
pbanders |
Feb 21 2017, 07:48 PM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 939 Joined: 11-June 03 From: Phoenix, AZ Member No.: 805 |
I found with the 12 heating the AAR it takes around 3 minutes to close up. Air does bleed by the valve and it is not a total block. I also found out mine would not close until the engine got up to full operating temperature (Hot) this would then close the valve. Turned out my AAR is not receiving voltage from the connector. Any one know where the wires go ? They disappear into the harness. I think I read the negative is switched from the ECU? As a quick fix I was thinking about just hooking up 12 volts from the switched position of the ignition to supply power to the AAR. *Also I found soaking them in Kerosene for a day will free them up. The ECU has nothing to do with the +12V to the AAR, voltage is supplied from the relay plate after the key is turned on, and stays on until the key is turned to off. Negative is not switched, it's provided by the case, there's only one wire connected to the AAR. The wiring diagrams for the AAR and the relay plate are available on the Pelican Parts web site. |
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