Left side ignition switch conversion-Alternate Idea, Conversion is completed. |
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Left side ignition switch conversion-Alternate Idea, Conversion is completed. |
jkb944t |
Mar 22 2017, 11:07 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 464 Joined: 17-January 05 From: Canton, OH Member No.: 3,459 Region Association: None |
I am considering an alternate plan for a left side ignition switch conversion. My plan is to alter a standard 914-4 steering column to accept a left side 911 ignition switch including the locking feature.
I would remove the right hand ignition switch and possibly fill in the area like some others have done. The other option would be to insert a push button switch instead of the key tumbler and use it to energize a windshield washer pump motor. I will need to get some dimensions shown on the photo so I know how to modify the standard 914-4 column to accept the 911 ignition switch. It would be very helpful if someone can help with these dimensions. Jeff B |
SixerJ |
Mar 22 2017, 05:04 PM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 448 Joined: 24-June 13 From: UK Member No.: 16,042 Region Association: England |
Jeff, I should be able to get the dims for you off my column
Might not be until the end of the weekend though if that ok |
jkb944t |
Mar 23 2017, 05:47 AM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 464 Joined: 17-January 05 From: Canton, OH Member No.: 3,459 Region Association: None |
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SixerJ |
Apr 3 2017, 02:32 PM
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#4
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Member Group: Members Posts: 448 Joined: 24-June 13 From: UK Member No.: 16,042 Region Association: England |
Hi Jeff, 1st off apologies for the delay, work and family has been crazy
Anyway here are the dimensions all in mm, plus a few more in case they help A = 16.1 B = 20.1 C = 32.2 D1 = 42 to centre of hole slot D2 = 46 to centre of M6 hole Looking at the hole I would say the curved radius would match a 20 round hole, simply chop off the sides so it is 16 wide Overall length of welded on U = 25.2 (material thickness 4) Width of U externally at the widest part (open end) = 27 / it does narrow slightly down to 18 internally) Open end of the U is 52 from the end of the column tube U shape maximum depth (sticking out from the tube it is shaped into the curve of the tube at the closed end) = 16 M6 hole from the external corner at the open end of the U (both x and y) = 6 I'll link to this from the left side ignition thread in case it's useful Anything else let me know |
jkb944t |
Mar 1 2018, 12:15 PM
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#5
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Member Group: Members Posts: 464 Joined: 17-January 05 From: Canton, OH Member No.: 3,459 Region Association: None |
I have restarted working on this project again this week. It was delayed since I had finish so many home projects that I put on hold to finish my 914-6 GT clone last year.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...9197&st=120 The object of this conversion is to convert a 914-4 steering column to accept a 911 ignition switch on the left side while looking as factory correct as possible. This cuts the conversion cost considerable and makes the wiring modification much easier. When completed it will have a functional steering lock and use the heavier duty 911 ignition switch. Oh, forgot to mention the cool factor too! After some research and some very helpful dimensional information from SixerJ it was time to proceed with modifying my steering column. The project is going to require several steps to accomplish: 1. Steering housing-cut off existing ignition switch protrusion then machine housing and fabricate filler plate. 2. Steering housing tube-machine window to accept 911 ignition switch and fabricate horseshoe bracket to clamp 911 ignition switch 3. Steering shaft-cut off ignition switch locking tabs and move them three inches down the shaft 4. Dashboard-cut out left switch hole and weld in new 911 ignition switch mounting 5. Modify 914-4 ignition switch wiring to accept 911 ignition switch. The first step was to cut off the ignition switch protrusion from the side of the housing. This was rather easy to do with a cutoff wheel. Then I set the housing up in a mill and machined about .08 deep ledge that goes up to where the arrows are pointing. The machined ledge supports the slightly curved piece of stainless steel the fills in the gap where the ignition switch used to be. I welded a tab to the stainless and used the existing holes from the old ignition switch housing to mount the filler plate. I still need to paint or powder coat the housing black. The next step is to machine window to accept 911 ignition switch and fabricate a horseshoe bracket to clamp the 911 ignition switch. Below shows a test fit up of the ignition switch. I still have a lot more work to go but I actually think this is going to work. Jeff B |
gothspeed |
Mar 1 2018, 02:20 PM
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#6
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,539 Joined: 3-February 09 From: SoCal Member No.: 10,019 Region Association: None |
Wow! it looks amazing!! it seems like it will work perfectly!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)
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jkb944t |
Mar 5 2018, 12:13 PM
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#7
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Member Group: Members Posts: 464 Joined: 17-January 05 From: Canton, OH Member No.: 3,459 Region Association: None |
I made some substantial progress this weekend.
I fabricated the horseshoe clamping bracket by using some 3/16 x 5/8 bar stock. I heated the steel up and bent it around a .71 diameter socket extension. I trimmed off the excess length and ground it to fit to the curved steering tube. During the fit up further down I tack welded the horseshoe bracket and then finish welding it out of the car. The next step is to locate the ignition switch mounting sheet metal from R&D I opened up the existing hole in the dash that was originally for the emergency flashers. Then I mounted the 911 ignition switch. I trimmed the switch sheet metal to a rough size and then bolted the sheet metal to the ignition switch to determine where to cut the dash hole. Once the hole was cut open I cleaned up the surrounding metal and then tack welded everything together. Next came the final welding which was a little rough but it finished up with a little grinding and paint. Jeff B |
Mueller |
Mar 5 2018, 12:26 PM
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#8
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 17,146 Joined: 4-January 03 From: Antioch, CA Member No.: 87 Region Association: None |
Nice work!
I see more "conversions" being done in the near future. |
raynekat |
Mar 6 2018, 12:01 AM
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#9
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,146 Joined: 30-December 14 From: BORING, Oregon Member No.: 18,263 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Curious about the wiring differences between the 914 and 911 ignition switches.
Is most of the wiring pretty similar? Or are there additional wires needed or not needed when making the switch? I do like the idea of relocating the ignition switch especially for a 914-6 conversion car. Also the fact the 911 switch is more robust too. |
mepstein |
Mar 6 2018, 07:04 AM
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#10
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914-6 GT in waiting Group: Members Posts: 19,142 Joined: 19-September 09 From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE Member No.: 10,825 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Curious about the wiring differences between the 914 and 911 ignition switches. Is most of the wiring pretty similar? Or are there additional wires needed or not needed when making the switch? I do like the idea of relocating the ignition switch especially for a 914-6 conversion car. Also the fact the 911 switch is more robust too. There was talk about an ignition switch harness adaptor so we could plug in a 911 switch without modifying the existing harness. Shouldn’t be difficult for someone who knows wiring. Impossible for me. I want a couple. |
914forme |
Mar 6 2018, 07:28 AM
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#11
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Times a wastin', get wrenchin'! Group: Members Posts: 3,896 Joined: 24-July 04 From: Dayton, Ohio Member No.: 2,388 Region Association: None |
That is ingenious work yet lots of hassle, for a key on the left side.
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Larmo63 |
Mar 6 2018, 09:40 AM
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#12
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,264 Joined: 3-March 14 From: San Clemente, Ca Member No.: 17,068 Region Association: Southern California |
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Larmo63 |
Mar 6 2018, 09:41 AM
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#13
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,264 Joined: 3-March 14 From: San Clemente, Ca Member No.: 17,068 Region Association: Southern California |
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yellowporky |
Mar 6 2018, 10:01 AM
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#14
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Member Group: Members Posts: 422 Joined: 18-October 09 From: Martinez, Ca. Member No.: 10,948 Region Association: Northern California |
Jeff,
I have already removed my ignition switch from the column of my 75 and have not done anything with the cover. 75 is plastic and i did not know that earlier ones were metal. Would you be willing to re-create the cover modification that you did? if so how much. Please pm me Thanks Chris |
jkb944t |
Mar 6 2018, 12:15 PM
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#15
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Member Group: Members Posts: 464 Joined: 17-January 05 From: Canton, OH Member No.: 3,459 Region Association: None |
Curious about the wiring differences between the 914 and 911 ignition switches. Is most of the wiring pretty similar? Or are there additional wires needed or not needed when making the switch? I do like the idea of relocating the ignition switch especially for a 914-6 conversion car. Also the fact the 911 switch is more robust too. The wiring between the 914-4 and the 914-6 ignition switch looks to be rather straight forward. The only wire I am a little unsure of is the buzzer wire. I will try to document the wiring conversion sometime this week. I started on it this weekend but I am not quite done yet. You are correct about the 911 ignition switch being much more robust which was part of my justification for doing the conversion. Jeff B |
jkb944t |
Mar 6 2018, 12:56 PM
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#16
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Member Group: Members Posts: 464 Joined: 17-January 05 From: Canton, OH Member No.: 3,459 Region Association: None |
The part that will be difficult with using the 911 steering column is Integrating the electrical connections for the different turn signal and wiper switches. The non-locking 911 ignition switch should be electrically the same as what I am going to be doing. I am not sure how the non-locking 911 ignition switch mounts into the dash. Does it use the same special angled mounting plate or is it just a straight hole though the dash? Jeff B |
jkb944t |
Mar 7 2018, 06:47 AM
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#17
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Member Group: Members Posts: 464 Joined: 17-January 05 From: Canton, OH Member No.: 3,459 Region Association: None |
The wiring is very simple for the switch except for one wire for the key in the switch buzzer. On the 914-4 it (gray wire with brown stripe) just terminates into the ignition switch.
On the 911 ignition switch there are two posts that are on the side of the switch that activate the buzzer instead of just one. I assume that the gray wire with the stripe should terminate into one of the posts and then the other post should either be wired to hot or ground? I think it should probably go to hot but if I am wrong that could be a problem. Anyone know which way the second post should be wired to? Jeff B |
Larmo63 |
Mar 7 2018, 06:54 AM
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#18
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,264 Joined: 3-March 14 From: San Clemente, Ca Member No.: 17,068 Region Association: Southern California |
My switch is early 911/912, straight into dash. The smaller 914 style bezel fits this switch too.
As for wiring the column switches, I will most likely forgo the plug ends and do point to point. |
gothspeed |
Mar 7 2018, 09:38 AM
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#19
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,539 Joined: 3-February 09 From: SoCal Member No.: 10,019 Region Association: None |
Nice job doing the metal work for the ignition. That sheet metal piece looks new, where does one source such a piece?
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mepstein |
Mar 7 2018, 09:55 AM
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#20
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914-6 GT in waiting Group: Members Posts: 19,142 Joined: 19-September 09 From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE Member No.: 10,825 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
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