Whats wrong with my Carbs?, wants to stall leaving the traffic light. |
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Whats wrong with my Carbs?, wants to stall leaving the traffic light. |
HansJan |
Mar 25 2017, 09:12 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 394 Joined: 5-April 16 From: Sugar Land TX Member No.: 19,860 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Hello,
Not having much luck with the Search function. The car: 1972, with 103mm cylinders (2.3l), aftermarket cam and larger valves with double springs. Fuel supply: Dual EMPI HPMX 44 Carburetors, Jets: .55 Idle, 1.55 main, Air 1.75. History: After car-fire engine was out, heads taken off and some studs and springs replaced. Changed to quieter exhaust. Had trouble with dialing in the carburetors and changed the jets to the recommendations from EMPI (see above). It runs a lot better now. Remaining complaint; The car runs pretty good (especially above 2,800) RPM. However; It takes me a while to leave after each stop (stop signs traffic lights etc) because the car want to stall. When I push the accelerator to quickly the RPM dips down, and car will die. Only when I ease on the paddle very gently, it will increase in RPM, and I can lift clutch at above 1,500 RPM. Anyone here understands this issue? |
HansJan |
Apr 4 2017, 11:18 AM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 394 Joined: 5-April 16 From: Sugar Land TX Member No.: 19,860 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Received the 34mm Venturi's, and i stalled them today.
However; There is no change (car still prevers to die, rather then drive after a full stop). Also assured that the idle jets are not glogged (not the case). Eventough most in this community hate the hexbar, I do not think it is to blame in this case. Simply because I cannot get the two carbs to do the same thing with the bar disconnected. According the EMPI instructions, the idle adjustment screw should only be out a little bit. But to get my car to idle, I have to screw them out very far (almost bottoming out). When it idles, it is not possible to get the carbs to balance, with the airflow meter. The driverside carb is always flowing more. The issue with the revs staying up for a prolonged period remains as well. |
ChrisFoley |
Apr 4 2017, 12:45 PM
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#3
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I am Tangerine Racing Group: Members Posts: 7,922 Joined: 29-January 03 From: Bolton, CT Member No.: 209 Region Association: None |
When it idles, it is not possible to get the carbs to balance, with the airflow meter. The driverside carb is always flowing more. Use the throttle stop screws to balance between the two carburetors. Ie, screw in the passenger side stop screw to increase flow on that carb. The idle mixture screws at the base are for matching the two throats on one carb. Balance the two carbs with the linkage disconnected. Then readjust the drop links. |
HansJan |
Apr 4 2017, 02:23 PM
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#4
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Member Group: Members Posts: 394 Joined: 5-April 16 From: Sugar Land TX Member No.: 19,860 Region Association: Southwest Region |
When it idles, it is not possible to get the carbs to balance, with the airflow meter. The driverside carb is always flowing more. Use the throttle stop screws to balance between the two carburetors. Ie, screw in the passenger side stop screw to increase flow on that carb. The idle mixture screws at the base are for matching the two throats on one carb. Balance the two carbs with the linkage disconnected. Then readjust the drop links. That is exactly what I'm attempting to do. However the car dies before I get the flow to match left-to-right. The EMPI video says that it causes tuner frustration if these throttle stops are too far out. This is definitely true. We need someone like you here in Houston. |
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