Problem with fuel injection, Advice needed Options

[Dave_Darling]

In the middle is the best position generally. Or, if there is a mark on the ring around the knob, any pointer on the knob should point to that mark. (That is evidently where it was set at the factory.)

Actually, the best position is the one that makes the idle nice for you at this exact moment, but that's not really what you were looking for... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

--DD

[Jeffs9146]

Just found out The CHT censor was brand new out of a packet , that's one thing eliminated

The previous owner of my 74 had told me they replaced the CHT sensor so I tried everything else and nothing worked. I decided to check the CHT and it turned out that the PO had stripped the threads when he put it in so it was loose. When I fixed the threads everything started working great! Also check the wire leading to it!

[914sgofast2]

I don't think you have the right ECU. Our early 1970 does not have a knob on the ECU. The adjusting knob was added to the ECU's on lster models so they could trim the idle & emissions. As suggeted above, please check the F.I. part numbers on the site Bowlsby suggested to make sure they are correct for your model year. For best performance, the distributor, the ECU and the MPS all need to be compatible with each other. Also check the Auxiliary Air Regulator ("AAR") to make certain it is functioning properly. If the AAR is not closing entirely when the motor warms up (i.e., after 15 or 20 minutes) it will put the engine in an excessively lean condition and act like a vacuum leak. You will spend many hours trying to find a mysterious vacuum leak, when it is the AAR that has gone bad. (Don't ask me how I know.) Our car ran fine when it was cold, but terrible once it warmed up becasue the AAR was bad.

[76-914]

Just found out The CHT censor was brand new out of a packet , that's one thing eliminated

The previous owner of my 74 had told me they replaced the CHT sensor so I tried everything else and nothing worked. I decided to check the CHT and it turned out that the PO had stripped the threads when he put it in so it was loose. When I fixed the threads everything started working great! Also check the wire leading to it!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) You won't know until you check the ohm values of the sender when hot & cold. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[pbanders]

My web site (see sig) has detailed troubleshooting info for all D-Jetronic components.

[Mikey914]

Do check the cht, i have them if you need it, but id suspect its ok..
Does sound like fuel control

[injunmort]

just something else to consider, the coil. when the coil starts to breakdown, they run fine cold, as they heat up, they expand and the windings separate, causing the condition you describe. try a coil swap and see if things change.

[cal914]

Changed the Relay board today ,Our very own MR 914 had a similar problem with one of his 914s and it turned out to be a connection in the back of the Relay board a connection that controlled the petrol pump.Going to take it on a long run tomorrow and see what happens ,I'll keep you posted with the results (fingers crossed )