Brake bleeding, This one is different Options

[914itis]

I replaced my lines , and trying to bleed the brakes .
Using regular dot3 brake fluid.

No matter what I do , I have to hit the pedal three -4 times before it gets hard .
I bled them over and over , same result. I tried bleeding them using the old method , pump until hard then unscrew the valve until the pedal hits the floor , screw back as the pedal is pressed / repeat .
I started from the back right , then back left then front right and front left.
I also tried using the vacuum bleeder at HF. Same result.

[mgphoto]

Air in your brake bias valve, "proportion valve " call it what you will.
Located behind the driver on the firewall in the lower engine compartment, it is the highest part of the brake system.
With a helper, pump up the brakes, crack each of the fittings while under pedal pressure. Do both fittings, cover with a rag or it will spray brake fluid.
Mike

ps: power bleeder is best.

[IronHillRestorations]

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=brake+bleeding

[914itis]

there is no proportioning valve, Just a Tee

[Kansas 914]

there is no proportioning valve, Just a Tee

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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif)

[ChrisFoley]

Air in your brake bias valve, ...

Not likely even if he still had the regulator.

[worn]

I replaced my lines , and trying to bleed the brakes .
Using regular dot3 brake fluid.

No matter what I do , I have to hit the pedal three -4 times before it gets hard .
I bled them over and over , same result. I tried bleeding them using the old method , pump until hard then unscrew the valve until the pedal hits the floor , screw back as the pedal is pressed / repeat .
I started from the back right , then back left then front right and front left.
I also tried using the vacuum bleeder at HF. Same result.

Take this with a grain of caution: approx one ton of grain.

I have had good luck with driving carefully in a safe location. Using the brakes seems to work some of the bubbles out. Then bleed again. Of course this suppose that you CAN pump to pressure and keep them pumped as needed. If the brakes aren't stopping the car don't try.

[Andyrew]

Have you tried hitting the master cylinder and brake calipers with a hammer to burp the bubbles out?


Also how did you do the rears? Did you adjust the pads correctly in the rears?

[914itis]

Pad is adjusted correctly , I used pmb's method , went for a drive . I did'nt give it a try again after the drive, I will today. .

[ChrisFoley]

Sometimes old MCs fail during brake bleed, especially if the pedal is bottomed out while pushing the fluid out.
The seal gets nicked as it passes the opening to the reservoir and never holds pressure well again.
I've even seen it happen with new MCs.

Another common cause of a long pedal is freshly rebuilt calipers. the new seals grab the pistons hard enough that they don't auto-adjust at first, so on release they back away from the rotor enough to require extra pumping.

[McMark]

You probably allowed air into your MC. It's a bitch to get back out again. To do this reliably, I've always had to plug all the lines in the MC, then pump the pedal until the pedal gets 100% solid. Then reconnect the rear/front right/front left in that order. Bleeding each circuit as it's added. This has the side benefit of illuminating exactly where a problem might be as well. If you add in the rear circuit and suddenly can't get a firm pedal anymore, your problem is probably in the rear. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Another brake system tip: if you keep the pedal depressed when you replace components, your reservoir won't drain AND you won't allow the MC to fill up with air. Do this while you remove the plugs and reinstall the hard lines so you don't loose the work you did to bleed the MC.