longs revealed - changes my opinion., deciding on fate of the project, need knowledgeable evals Options

[Calwaterbear]

since I originally posted the photos, I kept digging. was very concerned about what the longs looked like, so take a look , new photos of longs added
OK guys,
I had this project (72 1700) sitting around for 10 years, the first 3 covered and protected. after a windstorm took out my shed - it's been sitting out since then.
The body strikes me as being very solid, but it does have a few rust issues in wierd places as far as I can tell. It sure looks to me like most rust was caused by rain leaking into the interior. There is some what I would consider minor hell hole issues, can't really see the longs - but looks like 1 baseball sized hole - the rest very solid!

I have to decide what to do. I would like to return it to a daily driver fun car status, but I just took on a big Land Rover project, and my skill set knowledge is a much better match to the rover than the 914. And we all know what time drains these things are.

so can I impose on the knowledgeable to take a look at 15 or so photos and give me their honest opinion on value if I was to sell it as it sits, vrs condition skill required to put it back to functional. It was running when it was bought, drove it onto and off the trailer.

If so, would I just post photos here, or is there a better way to do that ?

thanks

Carl J
Fresno Ca

[KELTY360]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

I'm sure if you post photos here you'll get plenty of opinions of feasibility.

[Calwaterbear]

[McLovin]

I'll throw out a number since nobody is answering and I looked at a lot of junk before I bought mine.

First, it really hurts your value that you're located in California. You guys are spoiled out there with respect to rust. As an east coaster, I see the merits in the car, and think that someone who was willing to do the welding could definitely fix your car.

You may know that the best way to get a good number of responses on the internet is to get a bad answer. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) In the spirt of that, I think the car is worth $3,000 to $3,500 if you can get the engine running again.

If not, you're not going to get much for it at all.

That car is the kind where a guy can get $2 of value out of it for every $1 spent on it IMHO. Personally I'd find a way to shelve it until you can get the time to work on it.

[audio_file]

*edited* The rust doesn't look promising... but lots of good parts. Being a "lucky west-coaster" I'm a little jaded (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Probably 1000-1500 as is, maybe up to 2500 if it ran and shifted reasonably.

[Calwaterbear]

OK guys, I realized it all depends on the Longs. I was worried because there is a hole in the floorboard inboard of the longs, and the screws were completely rusted. So I ground off the screws, pushed out the plastic rivets, and exposed the longs.

I was really suprized: Check out the pictures I should have cleaned em up, still dirty, but completely solid as far as I can tell



so now I basically have to repair a 3" square in the floor board, a 1.5 X 3" hole in the hell hole, a 2 inch square inboard of the longs in the outer floor pan, and about 6 inches square along the front passenger side - where that strofoam filler trapped water. But after I repair those 4 simple weld in patches, it goes off for prep and paint - traded out an unused old suburban I had laying around (valued at about 1500 bucks) for the prep and paint by a guy with a good track record of excellent work. i suspect that trade saved me about 3500 for the cost of the paintjob.

[injunmort]

that does not look that bad to me. i would fix it

[audio_file]

The metal work is what really puts some people off to a poor condition 914, so if you're able to get that done yourself, awesome! Looks like you've got a good plan for a project, and the value of the car will increase immensely as you progress. Good luck!

[SirAndy]

Just remember, the rust you see right now is probably only 25% of the rust that is actually there.

Keep digging, you haven't found it all yet.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

[mepstein]

Just remember, the rust you see right now is probably only 25% of the rust that is actually there.

Keep digging, you haven't found it all yet.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) did you check out the passenger suspension console. That's a $2,500 repair on it's own.

[injunmort]

$2500.00 to buy, jig, remove and reweld a console, really?

[mepstein]

$2500.00 to buy, jig, remove and reweld a console, really?

Yes.

[Calwaterbear]

Just remember, the rust you see right now is probably only 25% of the rust that is actually there.

Keep digging, you haven't found it all yet.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) did you check out the passenger suspension console. That's a $2,500 repair on it's own.

OK please educate me - whats a passenger suspension Console?

[iankarr]

Basically the structural piece that allows the right rear wheel and suspension to attach to the frame. Rust from the hell hole tends to eat away at the metal, weakening an area that needs to be super solid. here's a vid from restoration design which shows the area and repair...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v40ZpRL1Osw

[AndyB]

$2500.00 to buy, jig, remove and reweld a console, really?

Yes.

That's why a lot of us are not 3rd party builders.

[Calwaterbear]

Basically the structural piece that allows the right rear wheel and suspension to attach to the frame. Rust from the hell hole tends to eat away at the metal, weakening an area that needs to be super solid. here's a vid from restoration design which shows the area and repair...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v40ZpRL1Osw

OK got it, not sure how you inspect that without removing body panels? the shock mount in the trunk is solid, no visible rust, I can't move the wheel back and forth when it's up in the air, but I have no idea what needs to be done to get a visual?

[mepstein]

Basically the structural piece that allows the right rear wheel and suspension to attach to the frame. Rust from the hell hole tends to eat away at the metal, weakening an area that needs to be super solid. here's a vid from restoration design which shows the area and repair...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v40ZpRL1Osw

OK got it, not sure how you inspect that without removing body panels? the shock mount in the trunk is solid, no visible rust, I can't move the wheel back and forth when it's up in the air, but I have no idea what needs to be done to get a visual?

Just jack up a bit and remove rear wheel. That's it.

[Cracker]

That was supposed to make you feel better...I think (or drive you to drinking). (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)

T

PS: Consider hitting "Tygaboy" up...he is in Cali and sucker for rusty teeners - he also has the skill, time and money to fix them! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Just remember, the rust you see right now is probably only 25% of the rust that is actually there.

Keep digging, you haven't found it all yet.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)