Oil Filter, What one? Options

[mudfoot76]

The K&N oil filter is awesome (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif)

I've had a FLAPS oil filter burst on me, sending a gallon of fresh 20w50 all over my garage floor (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/mad.gif)

I guess the gasket on the top of the filter just couldn't handle the pressure. It sucked, and I'll not make that mistake again. I've also used the Mann and Mahle filters and those worked great, but I really like how the K&N has the fixture on it for using the socket wrench. That is a brilliant innovation.

[cnavarro]

I switch between the K&N and the Mobil 1 filter. There also is a "Hard Driver" brand filter that has the best filtration - comparable to the Amsoil filters, but both are not available at your FLAPS. Autozone carries both the K&N and Mobil 1 filters.

[7391420]

I've used bosch filters for the last 3 years and have been very happy with them. I happened to pick up a few Mann filters from my last P-Parts order, and they look identical. My FLAPS sells bosch and always has the 914 filter in stock so I've always gone for that. My recollection is that the bosch filter is 6 or 7 bucks, while the fram or similar are like 3.00. FYI-a lot of FLAPS also sell the mobil 1 filters, if I wasn't so cheap I'd probably use them! but they are like 15.00 or so..

-The last time I did an oil change on my jeep I got a fram filter because they were doing a deal, like 6 quarts and a filter for 10.00, the filter had loose metal shavings around the top! what a POS! I took it back!

[dmenche914]

Factory filters, factory filters, factory filters. Unless proven otherwise, all the aftermarket ones are suspect. Folks say their filters work great, but lets see some data, oil pressure changes (I found as i recall about 5 psi increase on my Vanagon going from a fram to a mahle).

Purchase the factory and aftermarket filter, and look at the guts, how much filter material, metal shavings (as pointed out by other poster) burrs, construction of check valves, relief valves (check valve not an issue in 914 application cause filter can is rightside up)

Nut up, and spend the big bucks (less than $10) and get the mann or mahle, unless you have proven to yourself the aftermarket filter is truely better. Factory filters work as intended, are high quality, give peace of mind.

Fancy wrench holders or grip coatings (which likely reduce heat conduction) are great for making sales, but if the filter is unknown in quality, pressure drop, filter area, etc... you are risking your engine on a sales gimmick.

If you need a wrench to remove the filter, you likely are putting it on too tight, the factory filters are ment to be hand tight, torque too much, and they will be a bear to remove, and require a wrench, torque way too much, and I suppose the aluminum filter holder could snap off.

You should not need anything but your hands to remove the 914 filter.

Factory filters hold nearly a quart of oil, so nothing special about the Purolator filter holding a quart of oil as posted.

Why tango with Purolator when you can get factory recommended filters, and they hold a quart?

The bottom line is you want quality, a filter that will not fail internally (like Frams have in my experience) You want a filter with minimal pressure drop, and maximum filtering (minimal particle size) That usually means a fine filter media, with a large surface area. Sure you can have low pressure drop with a small filter area, but only if the pore size is huge, allowing huge particles to pass.

[Yoei66]

This may explain a problem I've had since I changed my oil. I put a Purolator filter on. I started noticing oil drips on the garage floor soon after. It seemed to be dripping from the filter, so I twisted it a hair tighter. I still seem to have this leak at the filter. I don't recall this problem when I was using the german oil filter previously supplied by the PO. Mabey I'll change to a Mahle or Mann before the Purolator blows.

[cnavarro]

I personally stopped using the Pureolator filters after taking one apart. I don't care for the string they wrap around the filter element. It has also been documented that although the tightly packed pleats in the filter catch way more crap than most filters (with exception of synthetic media), they also clog up very quick- i.e., replace them every 3k miles like every jiffy and quicky lube place says.

Although I know the K&N unit is bulletproof, they don't quote any filtration #'s, whereas the Mobil 1 unit has been found to be one of the best available.

[anthony]

FYI, Bosch filters are on sale at Kragen for $3.99 this week (you need a coupon from the Sunday paper).

[Rhodes71/914]

Just used a Napa Gold, didn't want to but it needed changing. It will have to do until I get my first Alaska parts delivery from Pelican.

[CptTripps]

Interesting study on oil filters...

Study - http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterst...ilterstudy.html

Conclusinons - http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterst...oilfilters.html

[7391420]

Why does he so highly recommend the Mobil 1 filter after he admits that he has recieved many reports of these filters spliting at the seam and failing????

[CptTripps]

Yeah, that confused me too....but he did a bunch of cool research, so I thought I'd post the link.

I called Stoddard and they have the filter in stock, so I'm headed there to get one.

021-115-351-A - $8.33

I'm local so that's a pretty good deal for me. He said the filter says Audi on it...can that be right?

[nebreitling]

Mahle OC28. all i've used. will look at the mobil 1.

[Cap'n Krusty]

QUOTE (914RS @ May 8 2005, 04:51 PM)

PH2870A. Use that number as a cross-reference to get the filter brand you want. Same filter for all 4-cyl water cooled VWs and 914s.

Well, right off the bat, air cooled T4 VWs and 914s take one filter, and water cooled vehicles take about 4 different ones, depending on the year and model, and NONE of them are the same as the air cooled cars. Fram lists the PH 16 as a direct replacement for the OE filter for aircooled, and the PH 2870A as fitting a bunch of later model VWs and Audis. The air cooled filter is stubby and wide, the water cooled filters, for the most part, are tall and thin. I wouldn't use a Fram filter in ANYTHING I cared about, including the return line on my parts washer. The Cap'n

[MartyYeoman]

K&N for Type-4 is #HP-2004
I use 'em and like 'em.

[CptTripps]

QUOTE (Marty Yeoman @ May 26 2005, 02:29 PM)

K&N for Type-4 is #HP-2004 I use 'em and like 'em.

For the price, I'll go with the OEM filter...

[SGB]

I have a wix version of the hp-1 right now. Freind at auto parts store says he thinks the specs he has seen in tests indicate wix as superior to other domestics (fram, motorcraft),

[Mark Henry]

I did use the Fram HP-1 for years without issues BUT thats on bug full flow set-ups. The HP-1 is a better than FLAPS filter, most of which are cheap crap. I've exploded cheap filters, oil everywhere, I still have oil on the ceiling and wall of my shop.
The Wix also works well.

That said.....

For the T4 I have always used Mann, Mahle and Bosch with no issues and I now use the Mann for my full flow set-ups.

T4's with big pumps have huge oil pressures on a cold morning start up, if the stock offerings can handle these pressures it's one hell of a filter.

[Tom Perso]

Here's what a Purolator did on my 2270 when it was in the Bug...

(IMG:http://www.qtm.net/~persot/oil_filter_1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.qtm.net/~persot/oil_filter_2.jpg)

I only run the K&N filter since the base and casing is so much stronger. Money well spent.

Tom