Resto-Thread: '73 Marathon Blue 2.0 Options

[Cairo94507]

Great looking car - nice job getting her road worthy.

[914_7T3]

COA-Birth Certificate Arrived Today!

Turns out the car celebrated its 44th birthday yesterday unbeknownst to me as per the Production Completion Date.

[914_7T3]

So After 3 months of ownership, it has become apparent that my 105,000 mile original motor with good compression burns a shit ton of oil after spirited driving in the canyons.

It is noticeable on deceleration and the also likely the result of oil getting in where it shouldn't be from all of the sloshing around in the turns and cresting the downside of the hills.

I have been advised it is most likely valve guides and/or rings. So here is the question, would it be advisable to consider only a partial rebuild on the top half if the bottom checks out?

Or rather would it be a mistake to pull the motor and not go all the way in the event one day it could just:

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blowup.gif)

I would like to hear the opinions of those that are more knowledgeable than I.

[mepstein]

Do a leak down test first.
Make sure you are not overfilling the oil.

[Cairo94507]

Assuming the problem is not as pointed out by Mark, if you are going to touch the motor, and you have the resources, I would really touch it. I would pull it and do a complete rebuild and take it to a 2056 but otherwise keep it essentially stock so it remains very reliable and trouble free.

That, of course, would be a great time to freshen the engine compartment, repair any rust issues in the engine compartment, send the tins out for powder coating, have the exhaust blasted and jet-hot coated, SS fuel lines if not already done, new clutch, etc.

Yeah, it is a slippery slope. But for me, if it goes up on jack stands, I would want to get as much of the mechanical out of the way at that time as possible. Then once it goes back together it is just the cosmetics, suspension, paint, etc.

Then again, you could just drive it and wait until you are ready to pull it apart. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[T H O M A S]

COA Paint Code 89 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) ,is it not L96M

[914_7T3]

COA Paint Code 89 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) ,is it not L96M

As per an email from Porsche North America, "The exterior color is Custom Color/89. The sample color was not recorded on the kardex. The COA will read Custom Color/89."

L96M was an optional color as was L96D, L96B, L99A & L041. The Karmann plate in the door frame is stamped L96M as per the color of the car.

Apparently many of the kardexs from the factory were not 100% specific with respect to build dates & paint codes.

[914_7T3]

Do a leak down test first.
Make sure you are not overfilling the oil.

Are we talking right on the top line of the dipstick and no more? Presently I am slightly above the top line.

Also, for some reason my mechanic says that the leak down tests may not necessarily be conclusive.

In the event a rebuild is in order, is it OK to do the top half only if the bottom appears to be good. Some say yes, some say no. I want to hear all opinions.

[914_7T3]

Assuming the problem is not as pointed out by Mark, if you are going to touch the motor, and you have the resources, I would really touch it. I would pull it and do a complete rebuild and take it to a 2056 but otherwise keep it essentially stock so it remains very reliable and trouble free.

That, of course, would be a great time to freshen the engine compartment, repair any rust issues in the engine compartment, send the tins out for powder coating, have the exhaust blasted and jet-hot coated, SS fuel lines if not already done, new clutch, etc.

Yeah, it is a slippery slope. But for me, if it goes up on jack stands, I would want to get as much of the mechanical out of the way at that time as possible. Then once it goes back together it is just the cosmetics, suspension, paint, etc.

Then again, you could just drive it and wait until you are ready to pull it apart. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Reason why I am asking is that at first I was enamored with doing the 2056 from a specialty shop. Can't argue with the upgrade.

However, I also have an old school air cooled specialist locally that can do it stock for literally half the cost in about two weeks. If it is top end only it would be about 30% of the cost of doing the 2056. The air cooled specialist works on VWs & 914s and has been working on my Beetle for 20 years and is in the same location for 50.

I have no doubt he can do a great job so long as it is bone stock and I'm OK with preserving the originality. Truth be told I did a PCA run last month with all the 911 & Cayman types and couldn't keep up. So when my lease is up on the daily driver I will consider a pre-owned Cayman or 996. No need to worry about making the teener quicker at that point.

[arne]

Whether to do just the top end or the whole enchilada at this point is a hard call. If it is in fact burning oil badly, at a minimum rings and valve guides need to be addressed. At that point, if oil pressure is good (indicating good bearing clearances) you could leave the bottom alone. Could still bump the compression and displacement while at it, but I'm not thinking that would be satisfying with the stock cam.

The performance aspect is what clouds the decision. If there was no desire to boost the output, top end only would be my choice. But trying to get more HP without splitting the case to change the cam doesn't seem viable.

[Larmo63]

If you have the money, do the whole motor to a 2056. Peace of mind. EMW did my /4 motor very quickly when I had it done for the yellow car.

Slippery slope, ask me how I know....

[iankarr]

Whether to do just the top end or the whole enchilada at this point is a hard call. If it is in fact burning oil badly, at a minimum rings and valve guides need to be addressed. At that point, if oil pressure is good (indicating good bearing clearances) you could leave the bottom alone. Could still bump the compression and displacement while at it, but I'm not thinking that would be satisfying with the stock cam.

The performance aspect is what clouds the decision. If there was no desire to boost the output, top end only would be my choice. But trying to get more HP without splitting the case to change the cam doesn't seem viable.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) If you're just looking to get it tightened up and back on the road, The top end refresh is what I'd do. Did it myself and had no regrets.

[914_7T3]

If you have the money, do the whole motor to a 2056. Peace of mind. EMW did my /4 motor very quickly when I had it done for the yellow car.

Slippery slope, ask me how I know....

I'll bite, how do you know?

[914_7T3]

Whether to do just the top end or the whole enchilada at this point is a hard call. If it is in fact burning oil badly, at a minimum rings and valve guides need to be addressed. At that point, if oil pressure is good (indicating good bearing clearances) you could leave the bottom alone. Could still bump the compression and displacement while at it, but I'm not thinking that would be satisfying with the stock cam.

The performance aspect is what clouds the decision. If there was no desire to boost the output, top end only would be my choice. But trying to get more HP without splitting the case to change the cam doesn't seem viable.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) If you're just looking to get it tightened up and back on the road, The top end refresh is what I'd do. Did it myself and had no regrets.

This is what I'm leaning towards and I am more than fine with the present 1,971 displacement.

[914_7T3]

Cool car, great color, but GET RID OF THOSE mirrors.

That's all.

Finally!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

[914_7T3]

I am now about three weeks out from engine rebuild and paint. My air-cooled mechanic has a stash of NOS German Parts that will be used, so that is beyond awesome. Should take several weeks and I will also use the 4 NOS Bosch Injectors that I recently picked up.



I am scurrying around this week trying to pick up the last of the donor parts required, just need some rear trunk hinges (thinking about the J West kit) if anyone can chime in with their experiences with that product.

Also need to do a 914 Rubber order and source a front trunk pan and I think I will be good to go.



The paint shop is just finishing up two 911s including a '73 RS America. I can't wait to see those after final wet sand and polish next week.

As for paint, they use BASF R-M Onyx HD. Does anyone have experience with this product? In Cali, I believe they must shoot water based paint for environmental reasons.

Not sure why, but I am starting to freak out a little. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)

This has turned into a fairly in depth project with lots to do and learn. I am open to any advice, guidance and recommendations at this point.

[Larmo63]

You seem to be on the right track, just grab your ankles and know it will all work out in the end.

[arne]

Not sure why, but I am starting to freak out a little. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)

Totally normal, even after you've done it a few times. My 914 project is my fourth comprehensive refresh in the past 25 years or so, and I still feel it at times.

Just bear in mind that when shepherding a project of this complexity, there will always be things that don't go as you expect, some good, some less so. But if you have your ducks queued up as best as you can figure in advance (and it appears you do), it will turn out ok if you stick with it.

[mepstein]

You want the painter to use what they are comfortable using. Just like most things, it's 90% prep, 9% skill and 1% materials.

I hope you are keeping the stock mirrors on the car.

[arne]

I hope you are keeping the stock mirrors on the car.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)