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> Should I drop the engine?—overwhelmed, it keeps getting deeper
amfab
post Jun 5 2017, 11:42 PM
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Long Post, questions are at the bottom.

OK, this scenario is not unusual here. I am still at stage 3, but I think I have finally hit bottom—I pray—with what I need to repair.

(WIIT=While I’m In there)

I started with what I thought was a simple jack port replacement that mushroomed as I poked and ground and blasted. Here is the order of how the project blossomed:
1) Passenger’s jack port repair ¬
2) Passenger’s long patch+driver’s jack port repair¬
3) Passenger’s long patch+driver’s jackport repair +Brad Mayeur kit install (WIIT)¬
4) Both side’s long rebuld+mayeur kit +rear floor pan, x-member replacement+gas tank r&r+swaybar installation—(since Im pulling the gas lines WIIT)¬
5) Longs rebuild+Mayeur kit +rear floor pan, x-member replacement+gas tank r&r+swaybar installation (WIIT)+inner lower firewall replacement¬
6) Longs rebuild+Mayeur kit +rear floor pan, x-member replacement+gas tank r&r+swaybar installation (WIIT)+inner lower firewall replacement¬+upper firewall patch (WIIT)¬
8) Longs rebuild+Mayeur kit +rear floor pan, x-member replacement+gas tank r&r+swaybar installation (WIIT)+inner lower firewall replacement¬+upper firewall patch (WIIT)+ partial low outer firewall patching (latest discovery)¬

Well, dammit, this leads me to consider dropping the engine to make the outer firewall repair the easiest. The gas lines, shift rod, speedo cable, heater cable and wiring hardness have to come out of the tunnel anyway—so what’s left to drop the motor?

I could do the firewall repair without dropping the engine because there isn’t a lot that needs patching, and I can do it from the passenger's compartment cuz the inner firewall is out, but a new bottom gives me solid flanges to which I can weld the floor pane and well you know “since I’m this far into it...”

Another downside is dropping the engine will lead me to probably strip and repaint the engine compartment and fix some other P.O. issues in there, then comes powder coating engine tin and other dumb stuff that 914 owners do—months get added to completion time. All I wanna do is drive the car.

Questions:
1) Should I drop the engine?

2) I've read a lot of posts on this but still am unclear—What’s the consensus for easiest 1 person drop: Chris’ engine transmission lifting plate or an ATV or transmission jack (prolly HF)? I tend to lean toward CT and away from China, but if I do this, I really need to get what is easiest.

3) IF the engine comes out, should I just go with Chris’ Rotisserie to make my floor pan (and other) repairs significantly easier, or should I just stick with finishing the job on jackstands. (I would buy the kit which adds another weekend or two to build and mount). I know this sounds stupid a this point but I am trying to make this quicker and easier.

4) If I go the rotisserie route, can it hold the chassis with suspension intact? I really do not wanna add more to the list (he says with a set of Brembo front and 914-6 rear calipers waiting in a box)

TIA for responses to the above questions, moral support, an any advice on welding, finance, relationships or the warning signs of FE2O3 addiction.

-Andrew
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