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> Gauging interest for a 914 breather/puke tank, for 914/6 but could be modified to use on any engine combo
Mark Henry
post Jun 13 2017, 11:13 AM
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I built this as my very first aluminum TIG welding project, welds are definitely not up to Ben's standards, but I'm starting to get the hang of it. Bit more practice an I should have decent welds. Also the aluminum was a scrap sheet that been sitting outside for years, so that likely didn't help matters.

But overall seeing as it's my first effort I'm pretty happy with it.
Would do a couple things different for a short run production, use the next size up petcock valve, weld the baffles in a bit different, etc.

I made it to clear the factory trunk springs, but not intrude into the engine bay much. It has a petcock and a tube, so to drain you stick an oil pan under the /6 cooler and open the valve. It's fully baffled and holds over a quart of puke. The barb's are 1" but I could also check out what's involved with using AN fittings.
I would likely have them power coated semi-gloss black.

I have the patterns for it so it would be easy to make more.
I have to check the price of materials, parts, powder coating, etc, but I'm thinking $150-$175, or $200 + ship and I supply the black braid hose and clamps.

So is there any interest? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)


(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-26-1497237833.jpg)(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-26-1497237851.jpg)


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6freak
post Jun 13 2017, 02:58 PM
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did you put steel wool inside , I heard it helps...I did the same but mines a round tube your is a bit more tucked away
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johnhora
post Jun 13 2017, 03:36 PM
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Mark...that's a clever design...looks good too!
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JmuRiz
post Jun 13 2017, 06:53 PM
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I like the design a lot!
Does it fit with a stock airbox, or just webber 'hat' filter covers?

If you don't want to semi-mass produce them maybe you can get mb911's help.
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6freak
post Jun 14 2017, 08:44 AM
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QUOTE(6freak @ Jun 13 2017, 01:58 PM) *

did you put steel wool inside , I heard it helps...I did the same but mines a round tube your is a bit more tucked away
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

the steel wool gives the oil something to stick to and return it back to liquid form instead of just floating around in a tank ,flexible drain tube strait out the bottom ,I never have to touch it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Norskpole
post Jun 14 2017, 09:38 AM
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I'd be interested in one
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TravisNeff
post Jun 14 2017, 09:52 AM
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Interested
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Mblizzard
post Jun 14 2017, 10:07 AM
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Interested. I always seem to have some oil inside my stock 2.0 plenum. I had always assumed it was the connection between the oil fill at the PCV valve and the bottom of the Plenum. I was assuming I would replace this connection with catch can at some point if that is the correct plumbing.

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rktmn247
post Jun 14 2017, 10:11 AM
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Interested.
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Mark Henry
post Jun 14 2017, 12:12 PM
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QUOTE(JmuRiz @ Jun 13 2017, 08:53 PM) *

I like the design a lot!
Does it fit with a stock airbox, or just webber 'hat' filter covers?

If you don't want to semi-mass produce them maybe you can get mb911's help.


Thank you (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
On a /6 it has the same size nipple as the DWD tank filler neck so it should fit the stock plenum as well. Basically I would make the nipple any size you want with the only upcharge being if you want AN fittings.

I would get Ben (mb911) to made them, but honestly practice makes perfect. Plus I'm enjoying playing with my new TIG welder. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)


QUOTE(6freak @ Jun 13 2017, 04:58 PM) *

did you put steel wool inside , I heard it helps...I did the same but mines a round tube your is a bit more tucked away
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


BTDT problem is the wool breaks down after awhile and would need to be replaced and it could also cause issues with the petcock valve.
I also will not build one with a crap breather vent filter, if you have one fine, but that's why you always have a coating of oil on everything.

My tank is sealed, it has a series of baffle plates the vapor has to snake through, that's why the inlet is lower than the outlet. Oil vapor and condensation collects on the plates and drips down to the sump. The sump is also baffled so the puke can't slosh around. The sump has more than a quart capacity so if you empty it every oil change it should never have much in it.
It should be only the finest of vapor that goes to the intake to be burned off by the engine.

It will be 4-6 weeks before I have time to go at this and those who are interested I'll ask for a small deposit at that time. I obviously want to use new material and I'll check out the price of hose, etc.
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Mblizzard
post Jun 14 2017, 12:56 PM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jun 14 2017, 10:12 AM) *

QUOTE(JmuRiz @ Jun 13 2017, 08:53 PM) *

I like the design a lot!
Does it fit with a stock airbox, or just webber 'hat' filter covers?

If you don't want to semi-mass produce them maybe you can get mb911's help.


Thank you (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
On a /6 it has the same size nipple as the DWD tank filler neck so it should fit the stock plenum as well. Basically I would make the nipple any size you want with the only upcharge being if you want AN fittings.

I would get Ben (mb911) to made them, but honestly practice makes perfect. Plus I'm enjoying playing with my new TIG welder. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)


QUOTE(6freak @ Jun 13 2017, 04:58 PM) *

did you put steel wool inside , I heard it helps...I did the same but mines a round tube your is a bit more tucked away
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


BTDT problem is the wool breaks down after awhile and would need to be replaced and it could also cause issues with the petcock valve.
I also will not build one with a crap breather vent filter, if you have one fine, but that's why you always have a coating of oil on everything.

My tank is sealed, it has a series of baffle plates the vapor has to snake through, that's why the inlet is lower than the outlet. Oil vapor and condensation collects on the plates and drips down to the sump. The sump is also baffled so the puke can't slosh around. The sump has more than a quart capacity so if you empty it every oil change it should never have much in it.
It should be only the finest of vapor that goes to the intake to be burned off by the engine.

It will be 4-6 weeks before I have time to go at this and those who are interested I'll ask for a small deposit at that time. I obviously want to use new material and I'll check out the price of hose, etc.


As long as you don't hit me with a chair i will send a$100 deposit.
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SirAndy
post Jun 14 2017, 01:23 PM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jun 14 2017, 11:12 AM) *
My tank is sealed

Where does the pressure go then?

When i first fired up my 3.6L i made the mistake of using a sealed puke can and i almost blew out the engine case seals.
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Andyrew
post Jun 14 2017, 01:32 PM
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I like it!!! Im building one out of stainless steel, and my location will be different than yours, but that price is spot on for a custom fit aluminum tank!
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Mark Henry
post Jun 14 2017, 02:06 PM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Jun 14 2017, 03:23 PM) *

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jun 14 2017, 11:12 AM) *
My tank is sealed

Where does the pressure go then?

When i first fired up my 3.6L i made the mistake of using a sealed puke can and i almost blew out the engine case seals.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif)

It has to vent to the intake, carb, air cleaner... I guess you could vent to under the car, but that's not environmentally sound.

It's sealed in the sense that you can't open the tank, there's no reason to.
The tank's purpose is to collect excess oil and condensation. Also as a extra protection if spirited driving kicks up extra oil into the vent.
Venting to the intake doesn't hurt anything, all cars vent to the intake, PCV .

I've run a similar setup in every performance engine I've built for over 30 years.
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Andyrew
post Jun 14 2017, 02:09 PM
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Curious how you ran the inners and what kind of baffling you did. Got any pics of that?
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SirAndy
post Jun 14 2017, 02:11 PM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jun 14 2017, 01:06 PM) *

QUOTE(SirAndy @ Jun 14 2017, 03:23 PM) *

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jun 14 2017, 11:12 AM) *
My tank is sealed

Where does the pressure go then?

When i first fired up my 3.6L i made the mistake of using a sealed puke can and i almost blew out the engine case seals.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif)

It has to vent to the intake, carb, air cleaner... I guess you could vent to under the car, but that's not environmentally sound.

It's sealed in the sense that you can't open the tank, there's no reason to.
The tank's purpose is to collect excess oil and condensation. Venting to the intake doesn't hurt anything, all cars vent to the intake, PCV .

I've run a similar setup in every performance engine I've built for over 30 years.

Ok, just checking. And yes, my current Gatorade bottle vents to the intake as well ...
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Mark Henry
post Jun 14 2017, 02:15 PM
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dp
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Mark Henry
post Jun 14 2017, 02:31 PM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Jun 14 2017, 04:11 PM) *


Ok, just checking. And yes, my current Gatorade bottle vents to the intake as well ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
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LowBridge
post Jun 14 2017, 03:53 PM
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well done... TIG welling aluminum is hard or was hard for me.. one second you have aluminum and the next second you have a puddle...

it looks fantastic and high marks for finding a very clever spot to mount it..

10/10
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mb911
post Jun 14 2017, 04:18 PM
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Mark,

Nice design.. Don't worry not going to steal it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) .. I would be happy to help if you need it down the road. I will soon have a webstore and we could work together if you like
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