My New 914 |
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My New 914 |
SKL1 |
Jul 9 2017, 10:34 PM
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#21
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,597 Joined: 19-February 11 From: north Scottsdale Member No.: 12,732 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
That is great that you have the original window sticker!! I know I've got mine from the '71 somewhere but can't find it!!
Gonna get a replica done for the '73 (see thread in originality section) |
Aualexa1 |
Jul 11 2017, 05:12 PM
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#22
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 45 Joined: 17-June 17 From: South Jersey Member No.: 21,189 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
A pic of my battery tray. It's moth-bitten at the rear edge, but the rest of t is rock solid. Does this look like the original tray? I'm planning on replacing the battery with an optima red top, but I'll do it once this battery kicks the bucket. In the meantime, I put a battery acid neutralizing mat beneath the current battery. I've attached a pretty c of it as well.
I've tightened the wheel bearings, but haven't gotten a chance to test drive it and see if the clunk is gone. It was almost a 120 degree rotation!!! of the adjustment screw to get it correct. There's no longer any noise when I rock the front wheels, so I'm hopeful the problem is fixed. Turbo tie rods are on their way. It also needs new shocks and struts. When jacking it up or pushing on the front fenders, the current struts make a terrible creaking sound. I'm gonna go with Bilstein HDs all around. I have them on my 911 and like them. So, two new questions: besides the front struts, rear shocks, and the new lock rings for the top of the front struts, do I need anything else? I'm going to try to do the fronts without removing the strut. I'm going to leave it attached to the ball joint. I know this has been discussed in other threads, but any tips would be appreciated. I'm also sticking with the current springs, so I won't be ordering those either. Attached thumbnail(s) |
Elliot Cannon |
Jul 11 2017, 10:39 PM
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#23
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914 Guru Group: Retired Members Posts: 8,487 Joined: 29-December 06 From: Paso Robles Ca. (Central coast) Member No.: 7,407 Region Association: None |
If the clunking is still there, check to see if the circular nut at the top of the shock housing is loose. I like your car. Your governor, not so much. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)
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BillC |
Jul 12 2017, 07:35 AM
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#24
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 534 Joined: 24-April 15 From: Silver Spring, MD Member No.: 18,667 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
It also needs new shocks and struts. When jacking it up or pushing on the front fenders, the current struts make a terrible creaking sound. Are you sure it's the struts that are creaking? I just rebuilt the front end of my 914 (new bushings, balljoints, tierods and struts). The creaking noise that I thought was coming from the balljoints turned out to be coming from the A-arms -- the original bushings had collapsed to the point where the torsion bars were rubbing inside the A-arms, causing the noise. With everything replaced, the car is amazingly quieter. Fortunately, the job of changing the struts is semi-independent of changing the bushings. If you change the struts and still have the squeaking, you can pull the A-arms without dropping the struts. |
krazykonrad |
Jul 12 2017, 10:02 AM
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#25
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,121 Joined: 21-February 06 From: Canton, GA Member No.: 5,610 |
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Aualexa1 |
Jul 17 2017, 08:46 PM
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#26
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 45 Joined: 17-June 17 From: South Jersey Member No.: 21,189 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Started on turbo tie rod install. Everything went well, but I've got a question. My new tie rods didn't come with a castellated nut and cotter pin. Instead they came with two nuts (shown in pic). Do they both go on? Guessing it's a jam nut. Which one goes first? Is there a certain torque?
Attached thumbnail(s) |
Aualexa1 |
Jul 23 2017, 02:55 PM
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#27
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 45 Joined: 17-June 17 From: South Jersey Member No.: 21,189 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Just updating my projects. Turbo tie rods are in. New ball joints are also in. Taking off the old ball joint nut was difficult. I ordered the special tool, but I couldn't keep it on the nut when trying to break it free. I would up using a dremel to cut the nut off. The ball joint pin was also stuck on both sides, so I'm going to take the strut to a local shop and have them remove the pin and separate the old ball joint from the assembly. I'm also going to have the shop put the new wheel bearing races in. Making progress!
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Aualexa1 |
Jul 23 2017, 02:57 PM
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#28
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 45 Joined: 17-June 17 From: South Jersey Member No.: 21,189 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Tie rod (still protected by the plastic cap bc I know I'd bang it up if it was left uncovered!) and ball joint.
Attached thumbnail(s) |
Aualexa1 |
Jul 23 2017, 02:59 PM
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#29
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 45 Joined: 17-June 17 From: South Jersey Member No.: 21,189 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Everything disassembled.
Attached thumbnail(s) |
Aualexa1 |
Jul 23 2017, 03:03 PM
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#30
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 45 Joined: 17-June 17 From: South Jersey Member No.: 21,189 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Here's what the original tie rods looked like!
* sorry for the multiple posts with single pictures, but I can't upload more than one at a time Attached thumbnail(s) |
Aualexa1 |
Jul 23 2017, 03:06 PM
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#31
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 45 Joined: 17-June 17 From: South Jersey Member No.: 21,189 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Had to go buck wild on the ball joint nuts.
Also, my front struts were totally dead. They go in and out like a slide whistle. I can't wait to get everything back together and see how the ride quality improves! Attached thumbnail(s) |
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