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BCinSC
post Jul 3 2003, 07:19 AM
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Wonder of wonders, my local dealership claims they work on 914s. It's Baker Porsche/Mercedes/Infiniti/Rover in Charleston (anyone know them at all?). I'm thinking of having the clutch replaced and someone more knowledgable than myself set the valves. Thoughts? Do I need the value size jar of Vaseline for the reaming I'll get?
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vortrex
post Jul 3 2003, 07:23 AM
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probably will cost 50% of what your car is worth. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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rhodyguy
post Jul 3 2003, 07:32 AM
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interesting topic. after spending countless hours under my car i see why work can cost a fourtune in labor alone. while they may have some tricks, the seconds, minutes, hours and days add up quickly. do what you are able to do to your car. farm out that that you are uncomfortable with. i guess it's just the cost of admission to the show. if they screw up the work THEY'RE responsible, if that's any comfort. perhaps someone here can point you to a non deler service shop locally:headbang:

kevin
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BCinSC
post Jul 3 2003, 07:43 AM
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Oh, I've spent countless hours under there, learning plenty and hopefully improving things, but without another enthusiast around, would never consider dropping engine and undertaking what I consider a massive project - the clutch.
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krk
post Jul 3 2003, 08:06 AM
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Well, I've never taken mine (or the previous one) to a dealer. I found (quite by accident) a small shop that specializes in P-cars who was pretty 914 savvy. They did my first clutch job (actually, my only clutch job) and other bits of work when I got in over my head. (someone with more current context can give approximates on prices -- I'm guessing $500-600 for the clutch -- hmmm -- I've not priced parts recently, so call it $300-400 or so for labor + parts.) I wouldn't say the rates were cheap, but I was always very pleased with their work, so I guess the price didn't seem out of line.

If I were looking to move to a new shop, I'd try to get a reference -- like get them to give you another 914 customer who you can talk to. That might go some distance to helping you figure out the zone they run in.

Another thing that sometimes works -- give them a small piece of work to do. You can see if they stick to their estimates, what their labor rates look like on paper (like, the paper your checks are printed on -- lol) It can be cheaper to be hosed on a small job than to be hosed on a large job.

Always get the work estimated first and discuss it with them. Since you know your car pretty well, it can make a difference -- they will know enough not to try the "flim flam valve" type nonsense.

Good luck with it! (there is upside to spending the cash -- iirc, my car, with the new clutch and new tires, was like a new car!)

hth.

kim.
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scotty
post Jul 3 2003, 08:51 AM
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QUOTE
Do I need the value size jar of Vaseline for the reaming I'll get?

Two.

Since they work on 914's, they should be able to give you a solid quote for a new clutch and a valve adjusment. If it's reasonable, go for it (especially if you can watch)!

I second Kim's advice.
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anthony
post Jul 3 2003, 08:58 AM
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I'd go in and ask to talk to their mechanic who claims to be their 914 specialist.
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Lawrence
post Jul 3 2003, 10:04 AM
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QUOTE
without another enthusiast around, would never consider dropping engine and undertaking what I consider a massive project - the clutch.


Several years ago, I felt exactly the same way. There is a really good article and checklist on the PP website.

You DON'T need to drop the engine to do a clutch job. Just the transmission. That's is just:

5 bolts on the bell housing.
2 bolts on the tranmission mounts
8 bolts on the CV joints
and removing some cables and such.

It's really one of the most satisifying jobs you can do in an afternoon on your 914. Support the engine from below, and then pull the transmission. Make sure you have a PSV (Porsche Support Vehicle) to take your transmission to the local quarter wash with a few cans of brake cleaner, and take the opportunity to really make it shine.

Don't be intimidated. You're as smart as the guys who put the car together. All it takes is audacity.

-Lawrence
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vortrex
post Jul 3 2003, 10:06 AM
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you are going into a high end dealership. they are going to charge you "book" hours I'm sure. just call them and ask how much, they'll just look it up and quote you. I'll guess over $1000 for clutch and valve adjust.
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Joe Bob
post Jul 3 2003, 10:09 AM
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Clutches are not hard....just time consuming. Once you've done it a few times it's a piece of cake.

Take your time, save the beer until you are done, make sure that you have the right tools, right parts and think safety. Make sure you have an idiot book and a number of the closest 914 club poster ready. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

Good Luck.

BTW....I HATE valve adjustments.....my guy does it for 1 gallon of Jack Daniels.....
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JeffBowlsby
post Jul 3 2003, 11:10 AM
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I second, (or third or fourth) the motions to do it yourself. These cars are not hard to work on...DIY makes it mo' fun....and paying anyone to do routine items would quickly exceed the value of the car over time.
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maf914
post Jul 3 2003, 11:15 AM
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"BTW....I HATE valve adjustments.....my guy does it for 1 gallon of Jack Daniels..... "

1 gallon of Jack Daniels = $45-$55? Is that about right? Sounds like about one hour labor. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

By the way, the $1,000 estimate is probably not too far off. This is one job that the home mechanic can save 50% on. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Mike
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Jeffs9146
post Jul 3 2003, 11:21 AM
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I did one on my 67 911 and it was a piece of cake! I vote for DIY!!

Jeff
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ss6
post Jul 3 2003, 12:03 PM
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Ditto on the DIY. It was the Pelican Tech articles that gave me the courage to (successfully) attempt an entire six conversion with no prior P-car experience. A clutch job is a day's work if you have the replacement parts on hand, and you have us if you run into problems.
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Lawrence
post Jul 3 2003, 12:08 PM
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Yep. The PP article is good. If you've never had the car apart, and don't have a detailed maintenance history, there are a few other things that I'd replace while I was in there.

Input and output seals for the transmission, and the engine rear main is a good start. It'll save you a headache if they start to leak the week after you change everything out.

Also, change out your fluid, and clean your drainplugs. (you need a 17mm allen wrench).
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djm914-6
post Jul 3 2003, 01:37 PM
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I have come to the realization that if I had the option, I would be a check book mechanic. I don't have that option. From the tasks we took on up here and also what you (Bruce) have done down south, you may have the balls to do it yourself. Have Kristy help you, the clean up would be fun after the work is done.

I hear that some unscrupulous, persons have copied the factory manual onto CD. I'd try to get a copy if you can. While I never would even ask for a copy myself, somehow one came in the mail not too long ago. I still haven't had time to review it.

Well, I'm off to the great state of Maine to enjoy my Canadian Lobster. Talk to y'all after the weekend.
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-P-
post Jul 3 2003, 02:35 PM
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I'm doing the clutch this week. I plan on taking it slow, bought all the seals to do while in there, and got all the right tools. Cost was around 400 shipped for the PP clutch kit w/o the flywheel, rear main, inner shaft, cv bolt socket. etc...
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tat2dphreak
post Jul 3 2003, 03:55 PM
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as intimidated as I've been since starting to work on mine... it's worth it... hell I was scared shitless the other day b/c I realized I needed to take the front shroud off to put heads back on... but when I finally jumped in there and did it... it wasn't bad at all!

the front shroud is off and eager to be re-headed... now I just need to get the old exhaust studs out to replace them!!

someone encouraging you can go a long way on these engines... a clutch should be no sweat... you replace one clutch... you've done them all!

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Lawrence
post Jul 3 2003, 04:15 PM
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Hey BC. If you decide to do the job yourself, PM me. I'll give you my cellphone number and you can keep that handy if you get stuck.

Best advice lately on the board came from Ginter: Take your car and power-wash the underside. You can pay to have it done, or just take a couple of jackstands with you to the quarterwash and clean all around the transmission, muffler, axles, starter, etc.

If you're doing it yourself, take a fist full of quarters, couple cans of brake cleaner and a scrub brush. Oh, bring a couple of towels to throw over your seats. If you do the job right, you'll be dirty to drive home.

Having done the job with and without cleaning the underside first... I can't recommend that highly enough. Besides, a clean car is a happy car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

-Rusty
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BCinSC
post Jul 3 2003, 04:28 PM
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Thanks, Rusty, and everyone else. Just got back from Baker Motors. Benz needed replacement sway bar bushings (damn Germans; jk (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif) )

Anyway, nothing in the infamous book on '73 1.7L clutch replacement, but *the* mechanic figured about 10 hours, which the service advisor translated to about $1500 including parts. They were kind enough to answer the question of, who else in town does these? Couple places were given and I'll investigate, but with all the votes of confidence here, I may DIY. I've done a clutch on an '81 Datsun 200SX though I had a lift, several specialized jacks, air tools, and an extra set of hands, but it worked (except for 2nd gear chatter).

Should I consider a bigger/better clutch, or just OEM? My four mice under the hood are puny and starved, but I can always hope, right?

Underside is fairly clean - Did it manually prior to tackling the valve adjustments.
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