Advice on a sleeve for inside the longitudinal |
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Advice on a sleeve for inside the longitudinal |
doug_b_928 |
Jul 19 2017, 12:22 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 692 Joined: 17-January 13 From: Winnipeg Member No.: 15,382 Region Association: Canada |
I'm repairing the passenger long. I've removed the rust and welded in two patches that comprise the bottom 2/3 of the long. To strengthen the long due to the welding I've made a sleeve out of 18 gauge cold rolled (same material as the patches) that is 36" long as pictured below.
The problem is that the 90 degree bend in the sleeve has made it tough to bend to the exact shape of the long for a tight fit. I put clamps on it and then with a hammer and punch beat it at the back (as shown by all of the pock marks). I think if I start welding it at the front and then do the hammer and punch thing as I go along it will probably conform to the long. But, I'm not 100% sure and would hate to have it half welded in and realize that the last 1/3 will not fit tightly. I could also make an 18" relief cut along the bend, bend it to conform, and then weld the sleeve to that shape prior to welding it to the long. I was going to run a bead on the black lines to make it more stiff, but figured that would make it even harder to make conform to the shape of the long when welding it in. So, I guess another advantage to the relief cut method might be that I could put a couple of beads in the sleeve (though perhaps that might also throw the fitment out of whack and put me back to square one with welding it in being more difficult). So, my question is, which is the best way to proceed. Take a chance on being able to bend it as I weld, or make the relief cut to fit it prior to welding it in? And, if the latter, should I put a couple of beads on the sleeve? |
amfab |
Jul 19 2017, 08:49 PM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 393 Joined: 17-May 16 From: Los Angeles Member No.: 20,004 Region Association: None |
I did/am doing the same thing. I am using 18ga.
I am not going up as quite as high, but basically the same thing. I probably wouldn't have gone up as high, but I wanted to get the emergency brake recess kinda high up 'cuz that area is prone to cracking. It gets lower going back. I built mine in sections because my break has difficulty with 18ga that long. I think I did it in 3 pieces, including the part that went up behind the rear heater tube. Doing it in sections allowed me to get it pretty tight. I didn't weld it into the long in pieces, I formed it in pieces, then once I had them good, I welded the pieces together, then welded the whole thing in. Doing it in pieces also allowed me to form the grooves easier on the bottom Not a lot of welding in any one spot to allow areas to cool. No long beads. Oh, and on the the side I am about to do I will probably make the cutouts for the heater tube dimples round. I figured the stress would be better distributed. Here is the driver’s side before I welded it and coated with Eastwood frame coating: This is after: This is the passenger’s side patch to repair the rusted area. I will then make another layer similar to the driver's side: |
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