Advice on a sleeve for inside the longitudinal |
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Advice on a sleeve for inside the longitudinal |
doug_b_928 |
Jul 19 2017, 12:22 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 692 Joined: 17-January 13 From: Winnipeg Member No.: 15,382 Region Association: Canada |
I'm repairing the passenger long. I've removed the rust and welded in two patches that comprise the bottom 2/3 of the long. To strengthen the long due to the welding I've made a sleeve out of 18 gauge cold rolled (same material as the patches) that is 36" long as pictured below.
The problem is that the 90 degree bend in the sleeve has made it tough to bend to the exact shape of the long for a tight fit. I put clamps on it and then with a hammer and punch beat it at the back (as shown by all of the pock marks). I think if I start welding it at the front and then do the hammer and punch thing as I go along it will probably conform to the long. But, I'm not 100% sure and would hate to have it half welded in and realize that the last 1/3 will not fit tightly. I could also make an 18" relief cut along the bend, bend it to conform, and then weld the sleeve to that shape prior to welding it to the long. I was going to run a bead on the black lines to make it more stiff, but figured that would make it even harder to make conform to the shape of the long when welding it in. So, I guess another advantage to the relief cut method might be that I could put a couple of beads in the sleeve (though perhaps that might also throw the fitment out of whack and put me back to square one with welding it in being more difficult). So, my question is, which is the best way to proceed. Take a chance on being able to bend it as I weld, or make the relief cut to fit it prior to welding it in? And, if the latter, should I put a couple of beads on the sleeve? |
rick 918-S |
Jul 24 2017, 07:18 PM
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#2
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Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 20,457 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region |
Ya, 1/8 is not the answer regardless of the math. When you add heat to the equation you introduce a whole new problem. We have had countless guys posting on here with cries of help after they warped the longs to the point where the doors and top no longer function.
The type of heat that would be required to properly bond 1/8" to 18 GA. is a recipe for disaster. The holes in the 1/8 would need an increased size in order to allow the wire to generate enough puddle heat to melt into the 1/8. At that point if your not blowing holes through the factory sheet metal you introducing heat into the 1/8 that expands out further from the spot weld and stays hot longer. allowing the metal to warp. Doug, Use 18 GA. move the spots around while working and cool the panel as you work. Check the car as you you go to be sure you are not moving the metal. Don't worry about stitch welding the edge of the sleeve. Long reinforcement is a good Idea where from the inside or the outside. But I can not express enough how important it is to work slowly here. There is always time to do it right the second time. |
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