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> Oil temp at 240
57lincolnman
post Jul 19 2017, 10:58 PM
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I'm in SoCal and last weekend I was passing through the San Fernando Valley on the 101 where the air temp was about 110. There's a mountain climb for about 2 miles on this route and the oil temp gauge was reading 240 during the climb. Because of the hot temps, the oil stayed at this temp even after I reached the top. I had to run the engine this way at 240 for about 20 miles. The oil pressure gauge was at 20 psi so I figured at least I had decent oil pressure even with the oil thinning out. I drove very conservatively at 50 mph. Did I do damage to the engine? If so, what should I look for?
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Elliot Cannon
post Jul 19 2017, 11:23 PM
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Do you use synthetic oil? Some suggest that if you use synthetic oil (I use Mobil one), oil pressure is more important than temp. My oil temp went to 260 on Mt. Hood at the WCR a number of years ago. Pressure was fine but I stopped, let it cool and it was OK. I would suggest if it happens again and you're concerned about it, pull over if you have time and let it cool down.
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Tom_T
post Jul 20 2017, 12:17 PM
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Actually, if you stop vs. slowing down, then you get zero airflow from fan & moving along, so I'd say he did the right thing on an aircooled car.

Water pumper, yes, probably better to pull over.

I'm not sure that 240 is too hot there - given ambient temp at 110 & probably 150+ at just above the pavement, but I never had the OT gauge in my 73 2L to know specifically.

My mechanic who is Porsche trained on 914s since `69 always said to slow down & keep the oil, air & car moving to keep it cool as much as possible in those situations.

Although I did that drive in summer/hot weather many times back in the day going from OC to Thousand Jokes & beyond - sometimes several times a week while working on the T-Oaks Library in 78-80 .... in my suit, coat off, suit pant legs rolled up above the knees, fan blasting cuz I had no AC! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

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porschetub
post Jul 20 2017, 03:11 PM
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QUOTE(Tom_T @ Jul 21 2017, 06:17 AM) *

Actually, if you stop vs. slowing down, then you get zero airflow from fan & moving along, so I'd say he did the right thing on an aircooled car.

Water pumper, yes, probably better to pull over.

I'm not sure that 240 is too hot there - given ambient temp at 110 & probably 150+ at just above the pavement, but I never had the OT gauge in my 73 2L to know specifically.

My mechanic who is Porsche trained on 914s since `69 always said to slow down & keep the oil, air & car moving to keep it cool as much as possible in those situations.

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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) or slow down and drive in a lower gear to get the fan speed up,I have always placed a lot of importance on good spark plug seals,engine tin seals and a good clean engine this can make a noticeable improvement in max oil temp.
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boxsterfan
post Jul 20 2017, 05:23 PM
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If all other things are in good shape (timing, spark, fuel, valves, etc...) then study the oil pressure relief valve. Then see tangerine racing for a replacement.

I never got around to replacing my oil pressure relief valve, but I had been all over my setup for a 1974 2.0L and no matter what it always ran hot. I think that some of the bypass "leakage" in a 40 year old not-so-well-designed oil pressure relief valve may have contributed.
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michael7810
post Jul 20 2017, 10:02 PM
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I don't think 240 is bad. Mine has hit 250 on a number of occasions on long mountain hill climbs. It always drops to around 230 once I crest the hill and take it easy for a while. I have a $$$$ Setrab cooler and fan under the rear trunk and the Tangerine OP relief valve and use JG Racing DT50 oil. I don't think I've damaged my engine; at least that I can tell.
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Kansas 914
post Jul 22 2017, 02:16 PM
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Is there a temp/duration when viscosity breaks down and the oil is shot?
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SKL1
post Jul 22 2017, 02:48 PM
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Boy 240 seems pretty high to me. On my '73 2.0 I added an external cooler as it lives in AZ. Don't drive it much in summer months as I'm usually back in IA enjoying the humidity, but when there I take it out in the morning, or late in the day, and it doesn't take long to get up to 200-210. Of course, air cooling isn't that great when the ampient temp is 100+!
I've got an oil pressure gauge too (with the kit to increase oil pressure) so that doesn't seem to be an issue.
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dangrouche
post Jul 23 2017, 09:53 AM
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Jake cited some stuff about oil temps....

JAKE RABY SAYS :

Here are my tolerances for OIL temps:
180-225 is normal
225-235 Very warm and will thermally breakdown oil in 1500 miles (dino oil)
235+ HOT- Will kill idle oil pressure and erode rod bearings and break down oil in 1K miles

HEAD TEMPS =
275-325 VERY good for flat running with short bursts to 350+ while pulling a hill. About the only time you'll see these temps is with a non stock, more efficient engine. Stockers with injection seldom run this cool.
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Kansas 914
post Jul 23 2017, 09:55 AM
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QUOTE(dangrouche @ Jul 23 2017, 09:53 AM) *

Jake cited some stuff about oil temps....

JAKE RABY SAYS :

Here are my tolerances for OIL temps:
180-225 is normal
225-235 Very warm and will thermally breakdown oil in 1500 miles (dino oil)
235+ HOT- Will kill idle oil pressure and erode rod bearings and break down oil in 1K miles

HEAD TEMPS =
275-325 VERY good for flat running with short bursts to 350+ while pulling a hill. About the only time you'll see these temps is with a non stock, more efficient engine. Stockers with injection seldom run this cool.

Thanks for the info.
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stugray
post Jul 23 2017, 11:07 AM
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If your temp gauge read 240F and your oil pressure gauge said 20 PSI, then I would first suspect the temp gauge as reading high.

Get an independent temp gauge and check it
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larryM
post Jul 24 2017, 12:13 PM
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...'way too hot! & psi 'way too low

you always want at least 10 psi/1000 rpm - or shut 'er down

sometimes - "straight grade" SAE 30 oil will eliminate of lot of problems

attach a "real" analog gauge to the engine if you suspect goofy senders or mismatched gauge-sender problem (which is easy to happen in our project cars) - but first 'hoping' it's a gauge-sender problem is dangerous wishful thinking

fwiw- my 3.2 with oem-gt front cooler runs consistently 185-190*, 3.5 bar (50 psi), cruising at 2800, on the hottest CA valley days - with all correct gauge-senders - on Rotella 20W-40

and -yes- there is a "magic temperature" = 210*F (100*C) - the SAE reference temp at which multi-grade oil is tested - above that the oil is "not g'teed" shall we say to be at the advertised "heaviest" viscosity http://www.viscopedia.com/viscosity-tables...ces/engine-oil/

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Mechanical Engineer's Reference Book:
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stownsen914
post Jul 25 2017, 08:36 AM
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240 degrees is too hot, but a short stint at that temp won't do anything serious.

I'd be more worried about 20 psi. You didn't mention at what RPM you're seeing that pressure, but as mentioned you want 10 psi (or almost) per 1000 RPM. High temp will cause lower pressure due to thinning oil, but 20 psi sounds very low to me. I believe there is a pressure relief kit you can buy to increase oil pressure. I'd look into why it's so low. Could be a sender or gauge issue too.

Scott
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Kansas 914
post Jul 25 2017, 08:40 AM
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QUOTE(stownsen914 @ Jul 25 2017, 08:36 AM) *

I believe there is a pressure relief kit you can buy to increase oil pressure.
Scott

Chris' oil pressure relief kit seems to be well received: http://www.tangerineracing.com/engine.htm
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57lincolnman
post Jul 25 2017, 11:38 PM
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I've ordered a new oil pressure relief valve from Chris Foley at Tangerine Racing. Thanks for the suggestion. When the oil temp was at 240, I had 20 psi according to the gauges. The oil temp gauge was specially calibrated for me by Palo Alto Speedo and the sensor has been checked so I have confidence in that. I have an external oil cooler with a temp fan and a NACA duct forcing air onto the auxiliary oil cooler.

At the time I experienced the high oil temp, I was at about 2400 RPM, so 20 psi isn't all that out of line with the 1,000 RPM/10 psi benchmark. After I get the new oil pressure relief valve in, I'll give it run out to Palm Springs with air temps around 115 and report back. But then there's no A/C thing, so maybe not.
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ChrisFoley
post Jul 26 2017, 06:43 AM
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Harve,
The shipping address I have for you is in GA.
If you want me to ship it to you in CA, email me the address.
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larryM
post Jul 28 2017, 09:11 PM
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yes - when i do the Hot August Night Cruises, the only salvation is to keep the engine revved up & lots of airflow thru the engine cooler

i have toyed with adding fans on the front cooler - since it's only a once/yr issue it's a lot of work for miniscule reward - easier to go make a fast run on I-80 to cool it all down & then get back into the cruise stream - no need to go round-n-round

QUOTE(porschetub @ Jul 20 2017, 02:11 PM) *

QUOTE(Tom_T @ Jul 21 2017, 06:17 AM) *

Actually, if you stop vs. slowing down, then you get zero airflow from fan & moving along, so I'd say he did the right thing on an aircooled car.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) or slow down and drive in a lower gear to get the fan speed up,

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Dtjaden
post Jul 30 2017, 09:05 AM
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Just to add oil to the fire, Mobil 1 is stated to resist breakdown at temperatures up to 500 F. I run Mobil 1 V-Twin and change oil once a year which is usually only a few thousand miles.
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GregAmy
post Jul 31 2017, 07:59 AM
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My '74 2L has always run hot in the summer. Yesterday, for example, I took it on a longer highway trip, low 80s temp outside, and the oil temp got up to around 235 on the dipstick. I got stuck in some light traffic and it almost got to 250 and didn't come down when we got back up to speed. Chris installed his oil pressure kit a couple summers ago.

And yet...if the temps are in the 60s or so outside, oil temp rarely gets above 225-ish, even in stop-and-go traffic.

I've been threatening to add an external cooler, still haven't done it.
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HIPPIEKILLER
post Aug 5 2017, 06:27 PM
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QUOTE(57lincolnman @ Jul 26 2017, 12:38 AM) *

I've ordered a new oil pressure relief valve from Chris Foley at Tangerine Racing. Thanks for the suggestion. When the oil temp was at 240, I had 20 psi according to the gauges. The oil temp gauge was specially calibrated for me by Palo Alto Speedo and the sensor has been checked so I have confidence in that. I have an external oil cooler with a temp fan and a NACA duct forcing air onto the auxiliary oil cooler.

At the time I experienced the high oil temp, I was at about 2400 RPM, so 20 psi isn't all that out of line with the 1,000 RPM/10 psi benchmark. After I get the new oil pressure relief valve in, I'll give it run out to Palm Springs with air temps around 115 and report back. But then there's no A/C thing, so maybe not.


Hi!

Did you have a chance of installing and testing the new oil temp after the new relief valve?

Share your experience and thoughts please!

Andrés.
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