Sot 912E #483, Carbs? |
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Sot 912E #483, Carbs? |
BK911 |
Sep 15 2017, 06:19 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 672 Joined: 19-February 04 From: Rocky Top, TN Member No.: 1,674 Region Association: None |
Ok guys, not sure what to do.
Recent acquisition of a '76 912E #483. As most of you know, it is powered by a 914 2.0 with Ljet induction. Motor runs well, but idles high and runs warmer than expected, so I am thinking vacuum leak. Of course will go through ignition first, since 90% of FI problems are ignition. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Chased FI problems on my 1.7 djet for a couple years before I gave up and put on some EMPIs. Been running awesome for years now! So.... Thinking of spending a couple of hours tuning the ljet and replacing all vac lines, but also thinking of just taking the plunge and putting on some EMPIs. Thoughts ? Don't care about resale; car is going in dd rotation and will get DRIVEN!! |
ndfrigi |
Sep 15 2017, 06:35 PM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,926 Joined: 21-August 11 From: Orange County Member No.: 13,474 Region Association: Southern California |
When I fixed 2 1.8FI for my 75 and for a friend's 74, I didn't use any smoke machine. Well maybe a lot easier for ljet but with our '02 MB C-240, took me months to fix some OBDii error codes and pertaining various parts including vacuum leak. I ended up buying a less than $100 smoke machine 2 weeks ago. And just an hour, i found the culprit of the error code and its just a small vacuum tube.
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ndfrigi |
Sep 15 2017, 06:40 PM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,926 Joined: 21-August 11 From: Orange County Member No.: 13,474 Region Association: Southern California |
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Chris H. |
Sep 15 2017, 08:29 PM
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#4
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 4,027 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Chicago 'burbs Member No.: 73 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
You're probably right on the vacuum leak. L-Jet is much more finicky and intolerant of vacuum leaks. Even if it's not the main issue or the only issue, replacing any seals or hoses that look suspect will improve performance. I clamped all the hoses on mine and it helped. There is also a rubber boot that sometimes cracks. You can spray it with that plastic-dip stuff.
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Mikey914 |
Sep 16 2017, 07:42 AM
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#5
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The rubber man Group: Members Posts: 12,638 Joined: 27-December 04 From: Hillsboro, OR Member No.: 3,348 Region Association: None |
My wife's is run on stock F/I, runs like a champ. Your efforts will be rewarded. Many of these have been converted to carbs.we can get 30mpg on the freeway, making these cars very economical and also fun to drive.
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Krieger |
Sep 16 2017, 07:47 AM
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#6
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,693 Joined: 24-May 04 From: Santa Rosa CA Member No.: 2,104 Region Association: None |
Don't forget to look at the two oil filler cap seals as well as the gasket the assembly sits on.
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BK911 |
Sep 16 2017, 10:34 AM
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#7
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 672 Joined: 19-February 04 From: Rocky Top, TN Member No.: 1,674 Region Association: None |
Thanks guys, heading to garage now.
Will try to fix first, but really leaning towards the carbs. |
r_towle |
Sep 16 2017, 10:43 AM
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#8
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,560 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
Running too hot may mean your timing was advanced too much to mask the vacuum leak. Ljet is very simple, it works or it does not. Replace all the vacuum lines, oil cover seals and check the plenum for leaks, and the manifold to head connection for leaks.
Replace the injector seals. Timing, Clean your distributor advance plates, get rid of the 40 year old grease, it's like glue when hot. That will also make carbs run like crap. Set the timing per the book specs. If you can't keep it running with the timing set properly , you Do have a vacuum leak |
Morrie |
Sep 16 2017, 10:57 AM
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#9
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Member Group: Members Posts: 181 Joined: 8-October 07 From: Cedar Park, Texas Member No.: 8,198 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Congrats on the 912E. There are so few of them out there and even fewer with the L-Jet still installed, I encourage you to try and salvage it.
I have a number of friends who have fought battles with their Es and won. As an additional resource, if you have not done so already, go over to 912bbs.org and post on the 912E Tech Help BBS. The guys there are great and can help with some of the quirks that are 912E specific! Best of luck! I loved my 912E! |
BK911 |
Sep 18 2017, 10:00 AM
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#10
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 672 Joined: 19-February 04 From: Rocky Top, TN Member No.: 1,674 Region Association: None |
Ok smart guys, hit a bump I've never seen before.
Checked dwell and it was a little low at 42^. Checked timing and it was 50^ btdc at idle! At 3500 rpm it was off the chart! Car runs pretty well, except runs a little hotter than I expected. How is this possible? I didn't adjust yet, waiting for the electronic ignition to arrive first. |
Morrie |
Sep 18 2017, 11:02 AM
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#11
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Member Group: Members Posts: 181 Joined: 8-October 07 From: Cedar Park, Texas Member No.: 8,198 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Ok smart guys, hit a bump I've never seen before. Checked dwell and it was a little low at 42^. Checked timing and it was 50^ btdc at idle! At 3500 rpm it was off the chart! Car runs pretty well, except runs a little hotter than I expected. How is this possible? I didn't adjust yet, waiting for the electronic ignition to arrive first. (not a very smart guy, but let me try and suggest something. It's a straw man suggestion, so others can feel free to knock it down) Is it possible you got on the wrong plug wire, or are looking at an incorrect mark on the fan? You may want to consider doing a TDC on #1 sanity check... Lots of ways to do it I am sure.... here is what I teach folks when they get mixed up adjusting valves..... 1) pull spark plug for #1 cylinder. 2) pull 1-2 valve cover. 3) pull distributor cap You are looking for the following to all line up. (from memory) 1) rotor is pointing to the distributor cap tower going to spark plug for #1 cylinder. 2) #1 piston is at top dead center. I usually use a wooden dowel for this so you can visually see it go up and down. Just make sure it is plenty long so it doesn't drop inside the combustion chamber. 3) With both 1 and 2 above met, you should be able to spin the pushrods freely for both the intake and exhaust valves on cylinder #1. Once you have all these criteria met, you can look for your timing mark. If I remember correctly, various fans had different marks on them, and it is hard to guess if yours is the original fan after all these years. Remember, the 912E has the engine serial number stamped on the fan shroud instead of the case. If yours has a number stamped on the case, likely its a 914 motor replaced at some point. Kind regards, |
BK911 |
Sep 18 2017, 03:13 PM
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#12
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 672 Joined: 19-February 04 From: Rocky Top, TN Member No.: 1,674 Region Association: None |
Thanks Morrie!
Definitely on #1, checked several times. Really surprised the car ran as well as it did. Be curious to see what happens when I time properly. Thinking Mr. Towle nailed it; lots of advance to mask vac leaks. Might be needing a smoke tester! |
Dave_Darling |
Sep 18 2017, 04:36 PM
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#13
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,980 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
If you're using a timing light with an advance knob built in, check that it is set on '0'. Then you can use the stock timing marks.
Double check that what you think is TDC or the timing mark really is TDC or the timing mark. I may or may not have committed both of those errors at various points in time. If so, I'm not admitting to it! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) --DD |
rhodyguy |
Sep 18 2017, 06:48 PM
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#14
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,054 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
Does your fan have 2 timing marks?
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BK911 |
Sep 19 2017, 05:51 AM
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#15
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 672 Joined: 19-February 04 From: Rocky Top, TN Member No.: 1,674 Region Association: None |
Checked numbers on the dizzy and its a RPT VW06, which is apparently junk.
Have an 009 I may swap in and see what happens. Or does anybody have a 2.0 dizzy for sale? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) What other dizzies would be a good alternative? |
StratPlayer |
Sep 19 2017, 06:01 AM
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#16
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StratPlayer Group: Members Posts: 3,263 Joined: 27-December 02 From: SLC, Utah Member No.: 27 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
123 dizzy, http://www.123ignition.nl/
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IronHillRestorations |
Sep 19 2017, 06:06 AM
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#17
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I. I. R. C. Group: Members Posts: 6,712 Joined: 18-March 03 From: West TN Member No.: 439 Region Association: None |
A 1.8 distributor would be closest to stock.
I have a new Pertronix SVDA which would also be a much better choice than a 009. I also have a matching coil, if you are interested I'd make you a good deal. |
BK911 |
Sep 24 2017, 07:57 AM
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#18
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 672 Joined: 19-February 04 From: Rocky Top, TN Member No.: 1,674 Region Association: None |
The heat didn't work, and investigation revealed a broken flapper box cable.
Took out the hand brake lever and noticed quite a bit of rust in the tunnel. Didn't think too much about it until I started tearing stuff apart to replace the cable. That's when I noticed a puddle of brake fluid at the pedals and in the front of the tunnel. So a simple cable replacement turned into this: |
GeorgeRud |
Sep 24 2017, 12:46 PM
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#19
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,725 Joined: 27-July 05 From: Chicagoland Member No.: 4,482 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Time to remove and rebuild the pedal box as well as replace the master cylinder. Try to keep the L-Jetronic and get the correct distributor- you'll be happier in the long run. Today's fuels don't play well with carbs unless the car is driven daily to prevent the fuel from jelling in the float bowls.
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