How bad is this rust? Options

[1973Porsche]

I think people who are calling this a parts car are over estimating the amount of rust it has. Millking this car for parts would be a shame and honestly would just put another 914 in the ground.

[Unobtanium-inc]

I think people who are calling this a parts car are over estimating the amount of rust it has. Millking this car for parts would be a shame and honestly would just put another 914 in the ground.

Here, here! I hate to see a Porsche scrapped. In the 356 world there are no longer such things as "parts cars", they are all saved. I hope 914's follow this trend too.

---Adam

[cary]

Can you take another picture that gives it more dimension ?







Where is this ?

This is SOP, battery acid damage to right long. Like Adam said this isn't parts car.
You don't have to do a concours restoration.

I'm envisioning something like this on the outside. Maybe the inside too.

[cary]

How about a shot of the right door gaps .......................

[1973Porsche]

Right door gap

[cary]

The other side. That one isn't effected by the rust.

[1973Porsche]

1.

[1973Porsche]

2.

[cary]

Same shot as number 2. But the other (right) side. But shoot it straight on so we can see the gap.

[DRPHIL914]

this is close to how bad mine was . It is fixable . depends on the shop and their experience with repairs of this magnitude and these cars. also depends on the hell hole and suspension points etc , on how far it goes- mine did not have rust in the upper part in the engine area at the hell hole- it was rot from the bottom so we replaced floor pan on both sides rear 1/4, and then we also had to rebuild the longs and jack points that were so bad that they fell out no triangle left at all on one side!!
My repairs were close to $6000 - and it was done in 2 months - I took it o Chris Foley at Tangerine racing and Ed and his other body guy did the work - now I also had some fender work done and the pedal area replaced so it would have been closer to $5000 for the longs jack points and rear floors - you have to ask if its worth it- I've had the car for 8 years, bought it not running for $2000. - I had already done all the suspension work and replaced the interior etc -

Look at the picture in my signature - that is the repaired jack point and long!

I had 2 choices- Buy a tub that would cost more than $5,000 or for about the same amount fix mine- I chose to keep save mine - its a rare color and now values are worth it- Cost vary depending on time and materials -

Next week my car goes to body and paint and the estimate for this is about another $5000. might be closer to $6000 - so add it up - well I cant because of so much other stuff that happens over 8 years of ownership of a project car - I can tell you initially I only put $1000 to get the car running after the $2000 purchase-
so $3,000 + @$6500 of rust repair and other work and $$6000 for body and paint , that's @$16000 into it and I would have to say I've spent another $4,000 on the
full suspension replacement new 16" fuchs and tires and interior replacement( ive done all the work myself including brakes lines, suspension ball joints and bushings 5 lug upgrade etc and ) and I'm all in for around $20,000.
And by the looks of it it may be a wash at this point but I've said I would not sell the car for less that $25,000 and the recent sales seem to point to it being worth at least that.

But even if it had not appreciated in value as much as it has in the past 5 years I would have done it - I've had that much enjoyment out of it.

I hope that helps - if you love your car, enjoy working on it or just driving it - andyou do need to fix that rust before its too late if you want to continue to drive it- then fix it. OR Sell it for $4-5,000 now and go buy a rust free car to enjoy now.

Dr. Phil

Good Luck!! LOTS of cars way worse off than that here that have been saved!

[era vulgaris]

Same shot as number 2. But the other (right) side. But shoot it straight on so we can see the gap.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Here's an example. We need to see a shot that looks like this. Straight on, on the passenger side rear door gap. That's the one that will tell you if the frame is starting to fold (the driver's rear door gap will as well, but it usually starts on the passenger side because that's where the battery is). If there is a consistent gap from top to bottom, you're good. If the gap varies, or if there is little or no gap at all, or if the gap changes when you lift the rear of the car off the ground on jacks, then you're in trouble.

[bbrock]

I agree with those saying your car is NOT a parts car. It is a project car that needs help. I just finished rebuilding the passenger side long on my car that was WAY worse than yours.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-1608-1490709528.jpg)

It took me 2 months working weekends and evenings plus several days off of work, and < $1,000 in materials. That included a new inner wheel house, outer long panel, threshold, and seat belt mount; plus sheet metal to fabricate new lower inner long sections. I don't pay myself for labor so that is where the savings are. I'm no master welder or fabricator. Just a reasonably handy guy with determination. And here's how it looked before grinding the welds:



Don't let the missing parts scare you, I'm dealing with a LOT more rust than you are.

If your door gap looks okay, I think the type of patch that Cary posted would be a good way to go to get the car back on the road quickly. After a mechanic suggested I haul my '91 Pathfinder to the junkyard because of the extensively rusted frame, I bought a $20 sheet of metal and spent a weekend welding in similar patches. That was over 10 years ago and the car has remained solid and strong since.

While the car is being worked on, I would pull the seats and carpet out to remove the tar on the floor pan and address any rust you find there. If the floor pans are not rusting through, they are probably working on it so you might be able to get on it before the panels need replacing.

[DRPHIL914]

this was mine- pretty bad,

[DRPHIL914]

i dont want to clog your thread with my pictures but its nice to see before during and after pictures- here are a couple after

[1973Porsche]

Here's the picture of the passenger side door line.

[Porschef]

It's certainly shiny...don't look bad! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[bbrock]

It's certainly shiny...don't look bad! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) There are others more qualified to answer, but your door gap looks good to me. I think your car can be saved with some work. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ar15.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)