Front Oil cooler size for bigger six Options

[Justinp71]

So I rebuilt my 3.0 into a much higher hp 3.2, I think its pushing 280hp. Problem now is just spirited street driving it runs at 210f with it be 80f outside; I'm sure on the track it will run 230+. I am running an engine cooler and the factory GT style Setrab oil cooler. If I want to run more track how large of an oil cooler do I need? What have you guys done in the past?

Also I am only running a GT lower valance, not a GT bumper, the hole seems large enough, could the GT bumper make that big a difference?

[stownsen914]

I have some experience and opinions to share on this. My racecar has about 260 hp and uses an older B&B cooler that is about 26" x 6" x 3" and have the cooler on the engine removed and replaced with a filter. I run 190 degrees on track. You'll want something similar sized at your horsepower level if you want to stay in the 200 degree range and plan to track your car. The one in Andy's picture looks like the Fluidyne one, which I've heard good things about and is a good size, and a pretty good value at something like $400.

You'll hear a lot of opinions about how to duct air to/from the cooler. Venting out the hood is a common way and I've heard works well. I saw comments in this thread about the low density air, and that's true. Racecar designers don't like to vent out the top of the car because it puts hot, low density air to the rear wing which isn't good for downforce. We mortals would probably be hard pressed to notice the difference. I vented mine into the front fender wells and have found that works well.

To the point about downforce from directing the air out the hood, it can't hurt but you won't get much that way. Air through radiators, oil coolers, etc. slows massively as it passes through - to like a third of vehicle speed. So if you're doing 100 mph, air is only going like 30 mph through the cooler and the ducting. You won't get a lot of downforce from that, though I guess it can't hurt.

Important points:
1. Make sure you seal the ducting leading to your cooler well. If there are gaps, the air will escape and never hit your cooler. Design the ducting to be close fitting and use foam tape (the stuff you get at Home Depot to seal doors and windows). I was sloppy sealing the edges when I first built my ducting, and later got a 20 degree oil temp drop just from taping and sealing small gaps less than half an inch.
2. Give the air a place to go without restrictions after the cooler. Hood, under the car, wheel wells, etc. Air won't go through your cooler if it can't get out. If you do your ducting well, you shouldn't need fans unless you spend time in stop and go traffic in the summer.

Scott