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> Front Oil cooler size for bigger six
mepstein
post Oct 15 2017, 07:10 PM
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Here’s mine. I will build a shroud for it if it can’t keep up.
Even though I don’t have a cooler on the engine, the cooler shroud is blocked off so I should have a bit more air cooling down the cylinders.


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Justinp71
post Oct 16 2017, 04:15 PM
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Thanks guys. I appreciate the oil cooler info. I heat wrapped my oil line that was next to my header, and sealed up my front oil cooler shroud better. I am down to 195f at 80f outside, with spirited driving. I'm going to do an HPDE in December and I will see how quickly it wants to get to 230f.

I am thinking of heat wrapping my headers and getting a GT bumper as my next steps. Although a GT front bumper is more than an oil cooler... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
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wndsrfr
post Oct 16 2017, 06:46 PM
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QUOTE(Justinp71 @ Oct 16 2017, 02:15 PM) *


I am thinking of heat wrapping my headers and getting a GT bumper as my next steps. Although a GT front bumper is more than an oil cooler... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

I'm using the Roger Sheridan designed front spoiler--it's distributed by Eckler's now as part number 65-229865-1....costs about $250. You may not like the look, but it sure does help stabilize the car.....I've had it over 150 at Daytona...here's a poor photo...Attached Image
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Justinp71
post Oct 16 2017, 11:35 PM
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I like that spoiler! My cars so damn low I'd probably tear it off... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)
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Randal
post Oct 17 2017, 12:43 PM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Oct 14 2017, 10:01 AM) *

I don't remember the exact make and model of the cooler i'm running, McMark would know.
No cooler on the engine and no fans.

This keeps my 3.6L cool, runs at 180 all day on the street and gets up to 215 on the track.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

PS: The shroud is removable for easy access to the trunk. I can still store plenty of stuff in there actually.
Just ignore the crappy louvers in the hood for now, eventually those will be made to look nice.


That looks like the Mazda cooler I had in 222. Never any issues with oil cooling after installed. I'll confirm that the air in and out setup is crucial.

Here's a picture during fab time:

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stownsen914
post Nov 1 2017, 12:42 PM
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I have some experience and opinions to share on this. My racecar has about 260 hp and uses an older B&B cooler that is about 26" x 6" x 3" and have the cooler on the engine removed and replaced with a filter. I run 190 degrees on track. You'll want something similar sized at your horsepower level if you want to stay in the 200 degree range and plan to track your car. The one in Andy's picture looks like the Fluidyne one, which I've heard good things about and is a good size, and a pretty good value at something like $400.

You'll hear a lot of opinions about how to duct air to/from the cooler. Venting out the hood is a common way and I've heard works well. I saw comments in this thread about the low density air, and that's true. Racecar designers don't like to vent out the top of the car because it puts hot, low density air to the rear wing which isn't good for downforce. We mortals would probably be hard pressed to notice the difference. I vented mine into the front fender wells and have found that works well.

To the point about downforce from directing the air out the hood, it can't hurt but you won't get much that way. Air through radiators, oil coolers, etc. slows massively as it passes through - to like a third of vehicle speed. So if you're doing 100 mph, air is only going like 30 mph through the cooler and the ducting. You won't get a lot of downforce from that, though I guess it can't hurt.

Important points:
1. Make sure you seal the ducting leading to your cooler well. If there are gaps, the air will escape and never hit your cooler. Design the ducting to be close fitting and use foam tape (the stuff you get at Home Depot to seal doors and windows). I was sloppy sealing the edges when I first built my ducting, and later got a 20 degree oil temp drop just from taping and sealing small gaps less than half an inch.
2. Give the air a place to go without restrictions after the cooler. Hood, under the car, wheel wells, etc. Air won't go through your cooler if it can't get out. If you do your ducting well, you shouldn't need fans unless you spend time in stop and go traffic in the summer.

Scott
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Justinp71
post Nov 6 2017, 09:26 PM
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Thanks Scott, those sound like all great valid points
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