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> My '70 V-8 Assembly Thread, a few updates and pic's
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post Feb 22 2018, 10:12 PM
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Thx guys. It's been fun but all accolades go to Bob. I'm just the assembler. The new windshield is on hold for me just north of here. I'll get it Friday or Monday then it's off to AAA for registration. Yes, still a lot to do e.g. fiberglass work on rocker covers, finalize exhaust, seat belts, front bumper, coolant system testing, glove box lid modification, then paint the rear fairing, rocker covers and engine grilles plus who knows what else will pop up during the 500 mile break-in. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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post Feb 26 2018, 10:23 AM
Post #142


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I tired of seeing the dizzy when I opened the trunk. That and the gap prevented the trunk seal from seating properly. I was going to modify this cutout piece but decided not to because it would just scorch the paint so................

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While digging thru the stash I found and installed the shiny, new threshold trim I had forgotten about. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif)

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post Mar 3 2018, 11:46 AM
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Damn it was cool this week. So much so that I didn't get much accomplished. I did the final fit and grind of the rocker covers. I needed to do a little glass work but not much. After waiting 20 mins (should be around 10-12 mins) for the resin to "fire off" I looked at the thermometer in the garage and found the problem. Too cold, 53 degrees. Pulled out the shop heater and once it hit 72 the resin finally fired off. Super pleased with the final fit. Paint and primer of same up next.

Raising the temps

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Fitted up

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The metal fairing will need some work as well. Tape marking proposed bend lines.

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rhodyguy
post Mar 3 2018, 03:10 PM
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Keep it up and you might not want to give it away.
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post Mar 4 2018, 06:27 PM
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Ha ha, good one Kev. There are many very nice things on this car but alas it is not my cup o' tea. My Subaru six is more than enough for me.

Back on track. Didn't want to create a "Hell Hole" in the trunk so.....I installed this.

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Then it was time to bend the rear fairing to match (somewhat) the fiberglass flairs. I started by marking a cone shape on the tape. One edge the cone goes past the edge of flair about 5/16" and goes straight down. Well not straight. About a 95 degree angle. The 2nd edge of the cone lines up with the recess for the bumper. Once drawn out the top of the cone will be about 2" across and the bottom about 3/4". Here is a pic of one side marked out.

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Next you need to trim out a small stiffener strip on top and bottom. In the pic below you can see the cut out on the upper portion next to the clamp. Later a small piece will be welded back in and I'll cover that later.

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Now clamp the tube down with 2 clamps and a piece of 1/4" plywood on the back side to spread the load of the clamp. Line up the clamp with the edge of the cone furthest from the wheel. As you can see I this pic, once clamped down the curvature of the metal flattens out. Yes, I know it is on the wrong side of the cone in this pic.

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A few more

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At this point the metal is quite flimsy and you can bend it by hand. The first bend is slight. The 2nd one (closest the wheel) is more acute. The important thing here is to set an angle. It doesn't matter if you go 15 or 35 degrees because once it is fitted to the car you can bend back or a little more. As mentioned, it is very plyable at this point.

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post Mar 4 2018, 06:35 PM
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Anyway, here are some pics of it in place. Fits great. Just need to weld back in some stiffness, prime n paint.

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post Mar 5 2018, 09:01 AM
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out.
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The vise, pipe, clamp 'fixture' is very clever. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)
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post Apr 6 2018, 08:44 AM
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Thx Kevin. Every once in awhile something works. I'm happy with the results and glad that I took the time to get these last few items fitted. It makes a difference once they're painted and installed. Here are several pic's during assembly of the final trim pieces after paint.

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post Apr 6 2018, 09:03 AM
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It still needs a good cleaning and the all important Windshield then it will be time for road testing and de-bugging.

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Andyrew
post Apr 6 2018, 09:14 AM
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Spooling.... Please wait
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Good work on the rocker!!!
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post Apr 6 2018, 11:43 AM
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Excellent work. Looks Great!
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post May 3 2018, 09:31 AM
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Well, I'm still waiting on my windshield to arrive and rather sit around with "my thumb in my ass and my mind in Arkansas" I decided to investigate this large clump of under coating. I noticed this upon arrival but left it unattended until now. You know the thought process. If I don't touch it then things will take care of themselves. AKA Rust Phobia. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) So on the lift I removed the front wheel to expose said clump. I pinched it and the hive crumbled only to reveal rust. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Oh well this repair was detailed in a couple of restos recently so I grabbed the grinder and began to clean the area only to discover I'm one lucky SOB. The rust was from the small truss piece. I don't know why it rusted away other than poor metal prep at the factory. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I left 1/2 of it in place and ground out the rusted part. No, I'm not going to replace it. If this was stock I would but we're way past that now. This pic shows the extent of the damage. It also let me see into the front area of the long which was in great shape. Why? I'll get to that in a moment.

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The small hole on the left was patched, welded and ground down in a few minutes.

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post May 3 2018, 09:49 AM
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Easy peasy. Now onto the hole in the long. At this rate I'll be finished in 45 min's.



Wrong! After stitching in the top of the repair piece I decided to weld up the left side because it was more difficult (in the corner) then finish up the right and bottom side of the patch piece. After about and inch of welding the left side the welder began to act as if there wasn't any shielding gas. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Screw it. I moved onto the right side and as I welded I noticed something dripping from the bottom of the long. Then those drops began to burn and smelled of paraffin. Reminded me of a Zilch Bag! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) What the Hell. I scraped this crap off the garage floor and now believe it was either Cosmoline (spl) or some home brew anti rusting agent made with paraffin. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) I spent the next 2 hours heating the front of the long with a torch, spraying the crevice with brake cleaner, blast with compressed air, rinse and repeat. Eventually I was able to create a welded glob that ground down nicely. What a Royal PITA but I remind myself how lucky I am and that this waxy agent has seemingly worked! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

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post May 3 2018, 11:10 AM
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I wonder if someone sprayed cavity wax in there. I love that stuff but have to keep reminding myself not to spray any until all my welding and painting is done. I feel your pain on those corners. They are a giant PITA and I still have one more to work on. Ugh! Nice work on yours! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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post May 3 2018, 06:03 PM
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I sprayed the longs with the Eastwood Internal Spray Coating. Their site says it is
"phenolic resin". Could that be it? Lime green.
If not, I got nothing...

Great Job as always!
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post May 3 2018, 09:13 PM
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Bob, this stuff is brown but who's to say it wasn't green before it was heated and began to burn? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I'll taste it and get back with you. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)
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post Jun 11 2018, 12:28 PM
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I gave up on acquiring the correct glove box door. One member vendor and another member both said they had them but they didn't get back with me so.................I ordered a piece of .032" 4130 from Aircraft Spruce. $8.37 later and a quick trimming I had my Glove Box door.

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This project came with the smaller GB door (later model) however this is a '70 and needed the wider GB door. I used an 8mm threaded rod socket and an 8mm x 16mm SS bolt. It's not pulled up in this pic.

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Done and done with that.

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post Jun 11 2018, 12:43 PM
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Another item checked off the list. I noticed there was a Tick-Tick coming from the right bank. My rubber hose stethascope revealed it was coming of the center of the right header. Pulled the header and found this.

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Dye and file revealed a low spot between the exhaust ports. A quick couple of passes over the header and it was dressed. I used the newer style SS multi-layer gaskets. They ain't cheap but I wanted to do this one time only. A drop of oil on each bolt and a proper torque wrenching later and it was silenced. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

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While I was in there I increased the plug gap to .045". That made a big difference in idle.
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post Oct 28 2018, 03:07 PM
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I've been driving a 25 mile course while ringing out the cooling issues. I run the same exact course when the ambient temp is 84F. I know 98F would be better but I needed at temp I might see everyday, this time of year, in order to have a base from which to accurately compare the runs. At times this becomes boring so I kicked on my WSW to see how they were doing. Fine on low but when I switched to Hi my digital combo gage went blank. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) Since I was familiar with this run and expected temps I continued home where I replaced #8 fuse and everything was back to normal. The next day while returning and close to home I kicked on the lights as it was dusk. Bingo, the little Gremlin returned. Once again the gage went blank. This time it was a 20a fuse on a remote fuse panel I added earlier to handle the fans, pump and the 2 large red wires which feed the OEM fuse panel and steering column. Those two were originally unfused. A different fuse this time but on the same circuit basically. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) I disconnected ground at the battery and pulled all of the fuses as well as the 3 molex plugs on the steering column. Then I re-connected the battery and and added one fuse at a time. Nothing. I plugged the molex plugs back in and when I connected the one to the ign switch it blew another fuse. When I pulled that harness down to look for burned wires I saw the culprit's. There were small punctures on both the large red and yellow wires.

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I stuck my finger where they contacted metal and could feel a couple of small sharp points that felt like slag although I couldn't see them with a mirror. I removed the spades from the plug and slipped 3 different sizes of Marine Heat Shrink over the pictured areas to serve as thick spacer so those spikes wouldn't penetrate the wire sheathing again.

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I'm guessing the reason those fuses hadn't blown before was because I'd never placed a "load" on those wires but once I did it was enough draw to arch and blow the fuse. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Who knows? I'm not an electrical whiz. Anyway, that did take care of it and all systems are back to normal. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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post Dec 18 2018, 05:14 PM
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I traded a crappy Dan Gurney spare to @euor911 for this crappy bumper. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) I had planned on using it for the Subaru conversion but it was just too much work to bring it back to something worthwhile so it's been in the attic until now. This V8 conversion had the large Renegade cut out in the front so I dug this out and with very little trimming it fits the build. I welded a couple of gussets in so the incoming air flows threw the radiator instead of out the sides of the bumper. You guys that have added a radiator know what I'm talking about. I need to spray some hi build primer, sand and paint it next.

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