Oil Pressure sender hose blew out, need help Options

[rgolia]

So last night the hose from the engine to the oil pressure sender blew out and sent oil everywhere. fortunately I was about 1 mile from home. Lot of oil everywhere, hopefully I did not fry the engine. of course to figure that out I need to get a new sender in place. I would like to have a sender that works the green idiot light and can also work a gauge and of course I would rather not have a hose after this incident. Any suggestions on the sender type and where to get it and what to expect when i try to restart the car...after adding oil of course! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[Keith914]

Buy a 928 SS braided brake line (Bruce Stone's recommendations) which screws into the case. Buy a VDO twin post oil pressure sender that screws into the female end of the brake line, and fabricate a bracket to mount it to the engine so that it is grounded (electrically). Connect your existing oil pressure light switch wire to to the corresponding post on the sender, and run a new line to a matching VDO oil pressure gauge and to the other post on the sender.

[GregAmy]

To clarify...if it was the hose that failed, why do you need a new sender? They're not integral, correct?

And just to check if the engine is basically OK, just re-install the stock oil pressure light switch (or get one from the local auto parts store) and run a temporary jumper wire to your existing sender's wire. Dash light goes out, you have at least ~7-8 psi.

That'll help you sleep better while you get the permanent repair parts.

[iankarr]

Check this out. Great kit.

http://www.42draftdesigns.com/vw-audi-oil-...relocation-kit/

[era vulgaris]

So last night the hose from the engine to the oil pressure sender blew out and sent oil everywhere. fortunately I was about 1 mile from home. Lot of oil everywhere, hopefully I did not fry the engine. of course to figure that out I need to get a new sender in place. I would like to have a sender that works the green idiot light and can also work a gauge and of course I would rather not have a hose after this incident. Any suggestions on the sender type and where to get it and what to expect when i try to restart the car...after adding oil of course! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Were you using a rubber grease gun hose?
I had this happen to me on my old car. The rubber hose melted from the engine heat after a long 3 hour drive and separated from the metal collar. Oil went everywhere. Grease gun hoses, while able to more than withstand the pressure, can't withstand the heat.
You need a hose that's rated for the heat, like in the kit CuddyK posted.
I ended up picking up a braided hose from Chris Foley at Tangerine Racing. This was a couple years ago, and at the time he said he was going to make them available on the website, but I don't see them on there.
Once you get the proper hose, there's nothing to worry about.

[bdstone914]

Buy a 928 SS braided brake line (Bruce Stone's recommendations) which screws into the case. Buy a VDO twin post oil pressure sender that screws into the female end of the brake line, and fabricate a bracket to mount it to the engine so that it is grounded (electrically). Connect your existing oil pressure light switch wire to to the corresponding post on the sender, and run a new line to a matching VDO oil pressure gauge and to the other post on the sender.

Look up a rear brake hose for a 1982 928. I got one at O Reilly ( ATE) for about $20.

[VaccaRabite]

About the dual senders.
I don't like them. They trip the oil Idiot light much earlier then the stock sender. Some people don't mind that, but on some engines you can get the oil light on at hot idle but the oil pressure is still within spec. Disconcerting.

I ran my hose to a T fitting, and have the pressure sender on one side and the stock idiot light sender on the other.

Zach

[rgolia]

Thanks all. I spoke with Chris at Tangerine and he is going to hook me up with the hose. Chris also suggested that I pull the oil strainer to see if I killed the engine. While I rather not do this for fear of bad news, I will do so and post pictures. Fingers crossed. If good I will follow zachs advice on the tee and two separate senders. If bad, my baby will be on the way to Chris's shop.

[Mark Henry]

About the dual senders.
I don't like them. They trip the oil Idiot light much earlier then the stock sender. Some people don't mind that, but on some engines you can get the oil light on at hot idle but the oil pressure is still within spec. Disconcerting.

I ran my hose to a T fitting, and have the pressure sender on one side and the stock idiot light sender on the other.

Zach

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) nothing beats the factory oil light switch. To me if you're really worried about oil pressure a big red light hooked to the idiot light is you best bet.

[GregAmy]

About the dual senders.
I don't like them. They trip the oil Idiot light much earlier then the stock sender. Some people don't mind that, but on some engines you can get the oil light on at hot idle but the oil pressure is still within spec. Disconcerting.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) nothing beats the factory oil light switch. To me if you're really worried about oil pressure a big red light hooked to the idiot light is you best bet.

Ditto. I ended up removing the center console with its voltmeter and oil temperature and pressure gauges (with VDO dual sender that always turned on the light at hot idle), going back to the simple stock GEN and oil pressure lights. Haven't had a worry about oil pressure since... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[iankarr]

The kit I linked above has 3 available ports so you can install an electrical pressure sender AND keep the factory one for the idiot light. And still have a spare port for a mechanical gauge if you want.

[DM_2000]

Thanks all. I spoke with Chris at Tangerine and he is going to hook me up with the hose. Chris also suggested that I pull the oil strainer to see if I killed the engine. While I rather not do this for fear of bad news, I will do so and post pictures. Fingers crossed. If good I will follow zachs advice on the tee and two separate senders. If bad, my baby will be on the way to Chris's shop.

How much oil is left in the motor?

[rgolia]

Took the strainer out....no metal frags to speak of...some small copper specks but smaller than the screen, so maybe good news. There was about 1/2 quart of oil plus the filter, so probably bad news. Plan is to try the restart tomorrow or Saturday. Any advice or thoughts on how to proceed or what to expect are appreciated. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

['73-914kid]

I would cut open your oil filter that was on the car. That's usually a consistent indicator of whether or not it smeared the bearings.

Fill it back up, drive it, and see if your oil pressure is good. If you damaged the bearings, you will likely see diminished oil pressure when the engine is hot as the journal-to-bearing clearance would have increased.

It might be worth it to cut open the new filter you reinstall after a hundred miles or so of driving if all else seems well.

[DM_2000]

Motor is probably OK unless it was in poor shape pre oil loss.

I've rebuilt / repaired countless engines across many makes and have seen the results of oil loss, having something left in the pan is a plus.

[Porschef]

Ralph, hope all is ok, were you using a grease gun hose? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

I'm not gonna take any chances, the kit Ian posted looks to be a good insurance policy...

[rgolia]

Not sure of the origin of the hose, most likely came with the sender and gauge when I bought it 35 plus years ago. It was on my list of things to hit this winter... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

I will know by noon tomorrow ....stay tuned

[rgolia]

Got oil back in it and fired it up. After a short but painful squeal it fired up and ran. I let it idle for about 5 mins. Didn't sound bad, but there was what sounded like valve clatter on a beetle, although less noisy than a beetle. Will do a real road test run after I change the oil again this weekend. I am not confident that it will pass the test. I afraid that I am gonna need to start listing engine rebuild options. Parameters for the rebuild:

- It is a numbers matching car so keeping the case is a plus
- I currently have Weber 44s
- I would like more power but want to have heat exchangers
- I do not want the car to be loud, I want to keep my exhaust as is (I have a borla unit)
- I do not want to spend more on the engine than the car is worth (thats the wife talking)

[GregAmy]

- Put suspect numbers-matching engine in the basement.

- Install good used engine into car (re-installing with not-numbers-matching Webers...natch...)

- Enjoy car.

[McMark]

- Put suspect numbers-matching engine in the basement.

- Install good used engine into car (re-installing with not-numbers-matching Webers...natch...)

- Enjoy car.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Smart idea, if you're not ready to pull the trigger on a full build.