Eastwood Internal Frame Coating, Internal Longtitudinal Coating Options

[Highland]

Just wondering if anyone has used Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating with the long tube to spray inside the longtitudinals with the heater tubes still inside.

I'm just wondering how effective it will be with the heater tubes in the way. Eastwood says it won't damage the heater tubes, but I'm not sure of that if they are made of thick paper.

Opinions please.

[whitetwinturbo]

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[cary]

My vote is no ....................
Saturating something with chemicals that your going to be breathing ............. not a good idea. The tubes are like sponges.

[Halfnelson]

My vote is no ....................
Saturating something with chemicals that your going to be breathing ............. not a good idea. The tubes are like sponges.

I'd be interested to know the answer as I have a dry state US import not long here in the UK and am considering wax oil injection in the sills etc.

[rick 918-S]

My vote is no ....................
Saturating something with chemicals that your going to be breathing ............. not a good idea. The tubes are like sponges.

I'd be interested to know the answer as I have a dry state US import not long here in the UK and am considering wax oil injection in the sills etc.

I've used it. My opinion, any coating that is absorbed on the paper will cook out after a short drive.

[cal44]

It won't fully work unless you can turn the tub over and on it's side so that the sealer can wick into the seam overlaps. Oh you can spray or pour it in there and some is better than nothing.
As to the tubes, who knows if they are without holes or damage? Easy enough to find out with the little search cameras on the flexible shaft.

I sold Por15 for ten years and am fairly well versed in these types of applications.

Plus, how dirty is the inside of the longs? if there is dirt or a layer of dust, the paint will not adhere to the metal. In other words, it will be paint sitting on top of dust.

Just a thought.

[bbrock]

I've used it on the frame of another car but not in the longs of a 914. I think it would work okay though. The product is basically a phenolic resin plastic paint that sets up solid and, as far as I can tell, odorless. Whatever soaks into the paper outer shell of the heater hose will set up once it cures and I doubt you would get any chemical infusion into the inner aluminum wall of the hose.

The supplied wand works pretty well to distribute the coating in internal members, but as you mentioned, the hoses and tubes are in the way. You would need to make two passes with the wand; one above the tubes and the other below, to get good coverage. Then a boroscope to check your work, I think.

My biggest beef with this product is that I can find no actual data on how well it works to stop or retard corrosion when applied over rusty surfaces. Eastwood's own description and claims are pretty vague. But I'm still planning on applying it in internal members of my car where I can't get into to clean and primer. But I just finished rebuilding my longs so those have a nice coat of epoxy. But I still plan to follow with cavity wax.(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Front yard mechanic]

A little spray paint is not going to affect your air quality. The tubes are aluminum wraped paper

[sithot]

If you want to stiffen a car even more, the installation of a metal tube in lieu of the muffler/paper connection has been done on 356's. Zim's sell the product. I know of a Speedster that picked up a 1/2 second a lap!

No experience trying this on a 914.

https://www.allzim.com/store/heater-tubing-356-all.html

[SixerJ]

I was re-looking at Andy's build thread and he did exactly what your considering

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...1062&st=240

Check the previous pg also for more pics

Seems to cover ok

[worn]

Just wondering if anyone has used Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating with the long tube to spray inside the longtitudinals with the heater tubes still inside.

I'm just wondering how effective it will be with the heater tubes in the way. Eastwood says it won't damage the heater tubes, but I'm not sure of that if they are made of thick paper.

Opinions please.

I used it in my tr6 frame members. Worked well.

[Mr. Olympic Blue 2 You]

I used it on my race car frame in the longs (after removing all of the heating tubes) ,
in the transmission tunnel and between the engine bay sheet metal. It's very thin and made to run into nooks and crannies.

One word of caution as it is VERY flammable even after drying. If you are going to weld after applying have a hose handy!

Andrew

[burton73]

I used the Eastwood product on my V8 car and put a lot of it in there with the long wand from front and back. I had it on the rotisserie and turned it over a number of times so it would coat all over. I think I got it well. A used several cans and it runs out of the weep holes on the bottom. A little messy on the floor but not a big deal in my shop.

Bob B

[burton73]

I used it on my race car frame in the longs (after removing all of the heating tubes) ,
in the transmission tunnel and between the engine bay sheet metal. It's very thin and made to run into nooks and crannies.

One word of caution as it is VERY flammable even after drying. If you are going to weld after applying have a hose handy!

Andrew

I always have a big spray bottle full of water for any hot spots that are burning.

Bob B

[djway]

I have used it on a couple of cars. VERY thin and runny which will get down into all the cracks. The nozzle really gives off a powerful spray. Just work it around everywhere. Place absorbent materials on the ground because it will drip.

[malcolm2]

Aren't the tubes inside the longs metal, not paper? That would be a disaster. You have metal tubes sticking out in the engine bay and metal tubes sticking out behind the speaker.... where would the paper be?

I used the Eastwood stuff. I inserted the spray hose into Long's the drain holes. Made my way to each drain hole. did a couple coats on each side. Tried to make sure the paint tube went on both sides of the heater tube.

Be careful with that stuff. If the overspray gets on ANYTHING, it is hell, maybe impossible, to get off. So close up any openings on top of the long. Like maybe the threshold screw holes or any openings around the exposed heater tube. I got overspray on my windshield and razor'd it off, but any overspray on vinyl or the dash is there for life.

Can't say how the stuff works, 'cause it is all inside. But the fact that it STICKS like hell to everything gives me hope.

Clark

[Highland]

Thanks for the comment on flammability.

I was going to take advantage of a cut out rust spot to spray the coating prior to having it welded, but I just confirmed with Eastwood to use this product only after all welding is complete.

[Matty900]

I used it in the tunnel but not in the longs. The hardest part is getting any debris and surface rust out first. I used long wire brushes, a vacuum and compressed air with a long wand attachment. I then did an acid spray with a sprayer and wand to convert any rust and then finally used the Eastwood. Not very fun work but at least there were plenty of access points and not much else in the tunnel other than the guide tubes and tabs. With a hose taking up most of the space in the longs, .
The spray that comes out does really go pretty far. I had covered up all of the openings in the tunnel when I sprayed it in my car but there apparently was a little daylight and when I went but it, it really shout out. So I have to think you will be able to get most of it in a few passes.

[74ravenna]

Great photos of the tunnel. Gives me a better understanding of what I'm dealing with in there.
I'm planning to do exactly what you've done (Soon I hope) but its not something I've been looking forward to, so I keep putting it off.
I think you might have given me the inspiration to get it done!!

[bbrock]

Thanks for the comment on flammability.

I was going to take advantage of a cut out rust spot to spray the coating prior to having it welded, but I just confirmed with Eastwood to use this product only after all welding is complete.

You can also get pretty good access through the factory holes on the inside of the longs that are under the carpet and covered with tar ovals. Warm the ovals gently with a heat gun or hair dryer and gently peel them off with a putty knife. They come off easily in one piece and can be reinstalled when you are finished. That gives you fore and aft access where you can get the wand over and under the heater hose.