914/RS: Re-build and Re-design: Engine and Cooling Options

[Cracker]

Well, I have never posted a "build" thread in the past - it will serve as my re-build as my car has been running for some time. Something that might be interesting for the H20 folks is a performance based cooling system - oil included.

The silver lining associated with the engine down is I have been intending to make the cooling updates for well over a year now. Its such a PITA I have delayed engagement.

LS engines are notorious for running high oil temps on track - GM will tell you it is ok - I believe it is not. Likewise, mid-engine cars have a notoriously difficult time controlling temperatures simply because of the location of the engine and cooling systems. This is exacerbated with additional power.

I walked the pits of the Walter Mitty Classic at Road Atlanta last year and took a bunch of pictures. All late-model mid-engined prototypes used Water-to-oil heat exchangers in lieu of oil-to-air. It adds a serious layer of complexity since the coolant now has to carry the burden of dispersing allot of extra energy. That is what I will be updating: all lines, the radiator, shroud addition, coolant distribution chambers, etc. One of the benefits of this new system is the ugly-as-sin rooftop oil cooler scoop will be eliminated (not to mention the drag that thing is causing ~ slowing me down)!

Just remember, along with most other members here, I ain't no "Tygaboy"! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

Tony

[ottox914]

Sounds like a fun project. I'll be following along.

[Cracker]

Pulled the engine today and dismantled to inspect for damage. Turns out I did in fact have a rod bearing failure - or so it appears. The cylinders all look and feel outstanding, as do the lifter bores - thank God. The heads were undamaged, pushrods were all straight, all very good signs and news.

One odd discovery that is pictured below was the fractured lower dry sump pump mount...chicken or egg scenario. Did this cause the failure or do the failure cause the mount to fracture. Dunno?







How Ti rods should look...

[Andyrew]

This will be fun to watch and make snide comments on (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[914 Ranch]

I'm watching you,Tony...

[Krieger]

I love the VW emblem over your door!

[Cracker]

This will be very slow moving...especially the cooling mods. The engine should be on its way to Houston by early next week. The shop is not mine (jfyi) - just a good friend who kindly allows me to invade his retirement space and time when a lift is needed.

FWIW: I decided to run DOT approved braided hydraulic lines that were built to my specifications. Since this is a "build thread" I will retroactively share what I compiled. Due to the speeds and performance I expected from this car - I wanted to KNOW everything was as good as it could be. I had a heavy equipment manufacturer (CAT's and such) execute it - each run is coated in a different color sheath (front, rear, clutch). I do not have a single "adapter" in my system - all are direct connections. The clutch line terminates at the MC on one side into the slave cylinder on the other.

Tony

[wndsrfr]

This will be fun to watch and make snide comments on (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Being blinded by the glare off of the shop floor, I'm not able to see any other details...this must be from some parallel universe from my shop... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[csdilligaf]

Tony, Can you tell me a little about the Trans? Cayman/Boxster? and what year? are you running cooling on it as well? And I assume it is holding up?

thanks

[Cracker]

It is a 6-speed Boxster- G8620 out of a 2001...we intended to install cooling and have all the equipment/fittings but never felt it was ultimately necessary. We run a max of 25 minute sessions and surely it gets hot but has held up well with over 50-hours to date. My original strategy is they would become throw-away every other year - cooled the jets on retrofitting the case for cooling. It shifts as well now as it did on day number one.

Tony

Tony, Can you tell me a little about the Trans? Cayman/Boxster? and what year? are you running cooling on it as well? And I assume it is holding up?

thanks

[jd74914]

FWIW: I decided to run DOT approved braided hydraulic lines that were built to my specifications...I had a heavy equipment manufacturer (CAT's and such) execute it - each run is coated in a different color sheath (front, rear, clutch). I do not have a single "adapter" in my system - all are direct connections. The clutch line terminates at the MC on one side into the slave cylinder on the other.

Very cool Tony! Eliminating all adapters is awesome and really quite impressive! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

The last racecar had custom lines made by BMRS with correct end fittings as well as integral hard line sections and it was a dream to assemble.

[Cracker]

Well, here is another project I am working on...I'll make this "thread" ALL of my build threads...wrapped up in one. So my late friend chose to cut the rear fenders trackside due to clearance issues - very crudly! I understand you gotta do what is necessary but it was ugly!

The "moon/speed" wheels are really cool - I've never seen another Cobra with them but they extend 4" inches outside the fenders. I had to chose to revert to stock wheels and tires or modify (as in correct) the body. I chose to make the hotrod more of a hotrod.

I liked the contour of the front fenders and thought the continuity of having flares added to the rear would be an appropriate design/improvement. We splashed the front flares, created molds, and then fitted them to the rear fenders. Here is where we are today...

Tony

[Cracker]

Now here is the big question..input is welcome. One of the visual highlights of a Shelby 427 are tapering/cutting down and in rear fenders. By transferring the front flare to the rear we grafted in the shape as well and it now has a squred off base.

Big question: Do I cut the flare back to be more representative of an original tapered style or maintain the cars Rebel status all the way to the end - and stay square? Pictures that clearly explain what I am referring too...

Traditional rear


or Squared off flare

[tygaboy]

I assume it looks different in person but I like the squared design. It's not trying to be original and, based on the angle used in the pic, I like the way it mirrors the shape of the exhaust.
I vote keep it square.

[Andyrew]

I like the tapered. The rear of my fenders do it and I love it. The square just screams to me fiberglass racecar.

[AZBanks]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9K0B8axdvU

[Costa05]

I assume it looks different in person but I like the squared design. It's not trying to be original and, based on the angle used in the pic, I like the way it mirrors the shape of the exhaust.
I vote keep it square.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) The roll cage adds to the squared design as well.

[Cracker]

AZBanks - LOL - Gotcha ya!

Chris - Yeah, I saw the same blend with the exhaust - heck, everyone can see it.

Andyrew - It IS a fiberglass racer and it screams everything! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Costa - The cage really "uglies up" the car too! The problem: It is a 12-point certified cage that is really well executed - from a safety standpoint.

Modification Idear: I have been thinking of converting the cage to a "track-day" eligible/worthy system. This was intended to give the driver a chance at 220+ mph. It would still have full Nascar door bars on both sides that would be fully concealed - red lines would be eliminated. Aesthetically, I believe this would make a world of difference. Thoughts?

Tony

Is someone really good with Photoshop? Can we get a visual without the marked cage?

[Cracker]

Decisions made...cutting the cage and training the flares. No brainer in person...thanks for the thoughts.

Tony

[wndsrfr]

Decisions made...cutting the cage and training the flares. No brainer in person...thanks for the thoughts.

Tony

The trim line looks to me to be more aggressive than the "traditional" one above....