Yet another head thread, Need advice |
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Yet another head thread, Need advice |
bbrock |
Nov 11 2017, 06:37 PM
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#1
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
This is related to the AA/HAM head GB but I didn't want to hijack. But that offer means I need to make some decisions sooner than anticipated on my resto. The main question is whether to rework these heads or buy new? My very strong preference is to rework what I have, assuming the castings are good. They have not been cleaned so I was thinking about walnut blasting them myself so I can inspect for cracks before deciding whether to move forward on reworking. Is there any reason I should not blast them myself? Any spots that should be masked or blocked before blasting? Basically, I just want to get to a decision point on whether to rework or buy new. After reading so much about how hard it is getting to find good original castings has me a bit spooked, and if I hit a dead end on reworking, I'd like to do it while the HAM GB is still an option. I also don't know what a basic head rebuild will cost. Anyone have a ballpark estimate? I used to be able to send them out to Cali for a couple hundred bucks, but those days are gone. Here's a short version of the history my engine. It's GA 2.0L engine that I rebuilt the bottom end on in the late 80s, but the project stalled before I got to the heads. My best guess is that the engine had about 110K-120K miles on it when it was split. That's a guess because the odometer quit at about 92K shortly after I bought the car. The engine ran strong when the FI cooperated when it was pulled, so no reason to suspect any major issues. Other than a busted exhaust stud, the heads look good with no broken fins and very little carbon in the combustion chamber. So, overall, I feel these heads are a good candidate for rebuilding but would appreciate any advice or opinions. |
mgphoto |
Nov 13 2017, 03:20 PM
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#2
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"If there is a mistake it will find me" Group: Members Posts: 1,338 Joined: 1-April 09 From: Los Angeles, CA Member No.: 10,225 Region Association: Southern California |
Simple way to check for cracks is a propane torch.
Just heat up the suspect places, crack will open and spew oil and smoke. No reason not to use NOS, except if you expect to go bigger. |
bbrock |
Nov 13 2017, 03:39 PM
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#3
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Simple way to check for cracks is a propane torch. Just heat up the suspect places, crack will open and spew oil and smoke. No reason not to use NOS, except if you expect to go bigger. Awesome! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) Keeping it stock except for CAM and Webers. I have the same question about NOS OEM springs and lifters, but I'm trying to track down the specs on the CAM since that seems like those will be important. It was a "Street grind" reground CAM from Automotion before they became Ecklers. Unfortunately, I threw away my old catalogs a few years ago which, I believe, had the specs on the reground CAMS in them. I have a message in to them to see if I can retrieve that info. I'm guessing the springs will be fine, but I'm not sure about the lifters. |
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