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> Keep Dellorto DRLA 45s and Bosch 009?
MarkV
post Jan 10 2018, 12:27 PM
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I lost track of this thread and was responding to the other one. I think you did fine price wise for a new set of Dellortos. Your old ones probably just need to be rebuilt and you can recoup most of what you paid for the new ones.

You might replace all of the shifter bushings before you give up on the transmission. The input seal on the transmission could be leaking and contaminating the clutch. The previous owner should have replaced that seal and the drive seals while it was out of the car.
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98101
post Jan 10 2018, 08:50 PM
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QUOTE(mobymutt @ Jan 10 2018, 06:32 AM) *

Thanks for sharing this! I'm also in the midst of hooking up a CSP linkage on a set of old carbs, but the -30C weather has stopped progress.

I find the CSP linkage enjoyable to work with now that it's installed... though I guess I won't need to tinker with it much.

I'm curious whether you'll manage to install it without removing the carbs. I couldn't with the Dells, though maybe I could now.
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IronHillRestorations
post Jan 10 2018, 09:40 PM
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QUOTE(98101 @ Jan 10 2018, 06:50 PM) *

QUOTE(mobymutt @ Jan 10 2018, 06:32 AM) *

Thanks for sharing this! I'm also in the midst of hooking up a CSP linkage on a set of old carbs, but the -30C weather has stopped progress.

I find the CSP linkage enjoyable to work with now that it's installed... though I guess I won't need to tinker with it much.

I'm curious whether you'll manage to install it without removing the carbs. I couldn't with the Dells, though maybe I could now.


I wasn't kidding about how superior it is to the hex bar. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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98101
post Jan 12 2018, 06:14 PM
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QUOTE(98101 @ Jan 10 2018, 06:50 PM) *

I find the CSP linkage enjoyable to work with now that it's installed... though I guess I won't need to tinker with it much.

I'm curious whether you'll manage to install it without removing the carbs. I couldn't with the Dells, though maybe I could now.

It just occurred to me that I neglected to confirm the accelerator pedal travel completely opens up the carbs. Remote possibility that might explain the dyno results being less than everyone's expecting? My wife took the kids on a playdate, so trying to think of how to check this without a helper. I guess I could put a heavy thing on the accelerator pedal like people do in movies before they jump out of the car, then check the cable in the engine bay for slack.
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struckn
post Jan 12 2018, 07:08 PM
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After reading most of the posts I didn't see mention of the Camshaft. Ask the previous owner if the original FI Cam was replaced with a Cam for Carburetor set up. I had some off the problems you mentioned with my 914 1.8 when I bought it. After an engine rebuild we replaced the FI Cam with a OO-152 CAM for a Carb set up on my 1.8. It's pretty well understood that the conversion from FI to Carbs will never work right with out changing the Cam. Hopefully this isn't the case with your's as the cam conversion requires pulling the engine out and splitting the case to get to where the cam is.
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jcambo7
post Jan 12 2018, 07:13 PM
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QUOTE(98101 @ Jan 12 2018, 07:14 PM) *

QUOTE(98101 @ Jan 10 2018, 06:50 PM) *

I find the CSP linkage enjoyable to work with now that it's installed... though I guess I won't need to tinker with it much.

I'm curious whether you'll manage to install it without removing the carbs. I couldn't with the Dells, though maybe I could now.

It just occurred to me that I neglected to confirm the accelerator pedal travel completely opens up the carbs. Remote possibility that might explain the dyno results being less than everyone's expecting? My wife took the kids on a playdate, so trying to think of how to check this without a helper. I guess I could put a heavy thing on the accelerator pedal like people do in movies before they jump out of the car, then check the cable in the engine bay for slack.

Do you have a GoPro or video camera? I use my GoPro with the wifi and send the feed to my phone to view the flywheel while rotating the tire to find my TDC marks. If no go pro you could maybe set up a video camera looking straight down the barrels to see the valve and watch it after you press the pedal.
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98101
post Jan 13 2018, 04:36 PM
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QUOTE(struckn @ Jan 12 2018, 05:08 PM) *

After reading most of the posts I didn't see mention of the Camshaft. Ask the previous owner if the original FI Cam was replaced with a Cam for Carburetor set up. I had some off the problems you mentioned with my 914 1.8 when I bought it. After an engine rebuild we replaced the FI Cam with a OO-152 CAM for a Carb set up on my 1.8. It's pretty well understood that the conversion from FI to Carbs will never work right with out changing the Cam. Hopefully this isn't the case with your's as the cam conversion requires pulling the engine out and splitting the case to get to where the cam is.

There's a bit of confusion around this. Previous owner (Tim) thought he had a Web camshaft, but in his receipts I found FC442 from FAT Performance:
Attached Image

According to FAT Performance, FC442 specs are:
QUOTE
465” Lift - 280° duration Good for street car with dual carbs for 914 Also good for pre-runner or small Off Road motor upto2400cc

In http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=2567229]this post[/url], Chris from Tangerine Racing said this:
QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Jan 12 2018, 05:35 AM) *

Camshaft and exhaust.
FC442 is a conservative camshaft for a 2366.
A 1 5/8" header is too small for a 2366.
European Racing Headers have long primaries, better for low end torque instead of top end.

BTW, 37 degree full advance is probably way too aggressive and may result in pre-ignition/high head temps.


The engine has less than 2000 miles on it, so doesn't seem worth pulling apart now that everything's running well. It's the fastest 914 I've had yet. Still a lot of other issues to work through.
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98101
post Jan 13 2018, 04:41 PM
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QUOTE(jcambo7 @ Jan 12 2018, 05:13 PM) *

Do you have a GoPro or video camera? I use my GoPro with the wifi and send the feed to my phone to view the flywheel while rotating the tire to find my TDC marks. If no go pro you could maybe set up a video camera looking straight down the barrels to see the valve and watch it after you press the pedal.


Damn, I should have thought of that! I even have a tripod that would have worked.

Today I had my wife floor the accelerator while I confirmed there was no further movement possible from the linkage. Oh well.

BTW, this was the first time my wife has touched my 914. She likes it about as much as she would like me having an additional wife. She didn't like when I got the Miata last year, and is further perplexed that I would want a second two seater.
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rhodyguy
post Jan 13 2018, 04:47 PM
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Did the throttle plates fully open during the test? Also, ensure the pedal stop isn't restricting travel.
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98101
post Jan 14 2018, 04:51 PM
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QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Jan 13 2018, 02:47 PM) *

Did the throttle plates fully open during the test? Also, ensure the pedal stop isn't restricting travel.

Hmm, well her pedal press took up all the slack in the line, and I couldn't rotate the linkage any further than that from the engine bay.

I just took off the air cleaners and doublechecked that rotating the linkage until it stops opens the throttle plates completely. Result was the same on the other side.

Evidence that the mild camshaft is the limiting element (or part of it), I found a Original Customs ad for a 2056 build using the same FC442 cam that I have. The ad includes a dyno run that peaks just short of 125HP around 5400RPM. I'm guessing that chart is crankshaft horsepower (BHP) rather than wheel horsepower (WHP).

Would you guys reopen a new engine just to change the camshaft? I'm more inclined to rebuild the transmission, fix the leaky rubber seals, track down the oil leaks, before worrying about being only slightly faster than stock.

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rhodyguy
post Jan 14 2018, 05:28 PM
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An exhaust system from Tangerine Racing (racer Chris) is less expensive than spitting the case. The 'while you're in there' syndrome can be a pain. With the displacement, looks like you need something different anyway. Bonus with a Tangerine is a provision for some heat and more importantly in WA, defrost.
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MarkV
post Jan 14 2018, 06:16 PM
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[/quote]
Evidence that the mild camshaft is the limiting element (or part of it), I found a Original Customs ad for a 2056 build using the same FC442 cam that I have. The ad includes a dyno run that peaks just short of 125HP around 5400RPM. I'm guessing that chart is crankshaft horsepower (BHP) rather than wheel horsepower (WHP).

Would you guys reopen a new engine just to change the camshaft? I'm more inclined to rebuild the transmission, fix the leaky rubber seals, track down the oil leaks, before worrying about being only slightly faster than stock.



[/quote]

That Original Custom is a 2056 making 125HP with the same cam as yours. You had issues including a slipping clutch. I would fix the oil leaks and the clutch before considering the cam or header. I would be willing to bet that you got a bad dyno run and after you fix the clutch you get more power. Stock is 95 horse power.
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