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> Keep Dellorto DRLA 45s and Bosch 009?
rhodyguy
post Dec 15 2017, 08:30 AM
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Back the pass side idle speed adj screw off of the stop. Does the engine stumble or a marked change in the idle? Using the driver's side, pass side off stop, turn the idle up to 1.3k. Now measure the flow on the front venturi of both carbs. You want a stable needle on the flow measuring tool. Now you can control/increase the idle speed with ONLY the driver's side ISAS. Matched at idle means nothing if the flow measurements change when the linkage is working. You don't want to be dropping a c-note + per hour for a linkage problem or needs carbs rebuilt "diagnosis".

When idling, filter tops off, and you glance down the carbs do you note any fuel dribbling?

You don't need to spend $ on an additional flow measurement device.
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craig downs
post Dec 15 2017, 11:39 AM
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I have a 2270 with 45 Dellortos and a Mallory Unilite distributor. I had a similar experience as you have with a off idle stumble. When taking off slow from a stop it would jerk around a little before taking off unless I took off fast. I played with the everything from timing, jetting, float levels, accelerator pump, clean carbs, and coils. It did get a little better but it was still there a little so I thought thats how it is coz I tried everything I thought. One time I was cleaning the carbs and noticed some of the auxiliary venturis were a little loose in the bore so I tighten them up until all the wiggle was gone. I would always try to make sure these were tight but they would loosen up. This time I notice that a couple of the set screws would not go all the in and would stop at a certain point so I retapped them. When I tighten them I wiggled them until they were tight in the bore. When I got it all together and drove most of the hesitation was gone and thought wow this is nice. I also learned that the transition from low to high circuit was lower than I thought and leaned the accelerator pump and that removed the rest of the hesitation. That's been my experience. After thinking about it I thought if the venturis were loose then maybe some air was getting between them and either delaying the high circuit or leaning it.
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98101
post Dec 16 2017, 05:04 PM
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I hope another newbie question is appropriate. I noticed this intake manifold gasket is deformed. Is this caused by overtorquing? Will it leak?

I have not removed the carbs yet -- still afraid of messing something up.

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rhodyguy
post Dec 17 2017, 01:42 PM
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I've never seen one like that. Neoprene? If you want to investigate just remove the 8 nuts, cable and fuel supply line. Then you can lift both carbs at the same time preserving the current settings. Nyloc nuts? That's a new one too.
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porschetub
post Dec 17 2017, 02:38 PM
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Holy cr#p never seen base caskets like that,WAY too thick if they are overtightened you could bend the carb bases...seen it before ,thick cork gaskets can do the same.
The correct gaskets are only 1mm thick and usually high temp material,I have an Italian Dellorto kit in front of me now.
The OP needs to go right through this whole setup and start again from scratch,every problem or potential issue needs to be sorted before trying to tune them afterall.
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rhodyguy
post Dec 17 2017, 03:38 PM
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One thing at a time.

Any VW/bug shop in the Seattle area will have the proper gasket.
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Mark Henry
post Dec 17 2017, 03:55 PM
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IIRC those are CB performance gaskets, I think they called them "dellorto doctor".
Dellorto's have a weird notch cast in the throat that makes an annoying whistle, the gaskets have a molded part that stick up into the notch to stop the whistle. I believe they are a hard plastic.

This is all going from memory from back in the 90's.
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MarkV
post Dec 17 2017, 03:58 PM
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My carbs had some thick gaskets somewhat similar to that. They have a built in raised portion that fills in a boss/void in the bottom of the body of the carb. I used them till I wore them out...I was never able to find a source for them. The raise portion keeps the carbs from whistling or chirping. If they aren't leaking I would leave them alone. In fact if you aren't planning to rebuild the carbs I wouldn't remove them.

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Mark Henry
post Dec 17 2017, 04:06 PM
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Just googled I was thinking dellorto "Jet Doctor" which was made to solve a dell jet issue,

Below is the gaskets I'm talking about, MarkV here's where you can get them and many other dell parts.

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Dellorto-DRLA...stle-gasket.htm

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/vwparts.aircooled.net-26-1513548379.1.jpg)
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Mark Henry
post Dec 17 2017, 04:10 PM
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Link to the dell parts

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Dellorto-DRLA...-Jets-s/933.htm
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MarkV
post Dec 17 2017, 04:37 PM
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Nice that they are still available although mine doesn't whistle or chirp without them. I suppose you could fill the the void with something besides a gasket if you had the chirp.
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Mark Henry
post Dec 17 2017, 04:58 PM
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Problem is with what?
If it ever did fail you'd have a nice chunk of whatever go down your intake.
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98101
post Dec 17 2017, 05:01 PM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Dec 17 2017, 02:06 PM) *

Just googled I was thinking dellorto "Jet Doctor" which was made to solve a dell jet issue,

Below is the gaskets I'm talking about, MarkV here's where you can get them and many other dell parts.

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Dellorto-DRLA...stle-gasket.htm

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/vwparts.aircooled.net-26-1513548379.1.jpg)


I noticed that site says:
QUOTE
correct torque for the 4 mount nuts is 10-15 INCH lbs. We also suggest tightening in a criss-cross pattern and bring the nuts down slowly to torque. Lastly, we recommend running a spring style lock washer under your nuts


Maybe those instructions weren't followed in this case?
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MarkV
post Dec 17 2017, 05:36 PM
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Nyloc nuts are probably not what I would use but no big deal. The problem with them is they may want to unscrew the stud from the manifold when you go to loosen them. I would just snug them evenly.
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type2man
post Dec 17 2017, 07:00 PM
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Looks like you have the dellorto upgrade kit because you have the longer idle jet holders. Look inside and see if you have a fuel rail that goes across. These upgrade kits are good. I would start by removing the idle jets and the pump jets that are on the sides of the carbs and blowing them out with air. When reinstalling them, make sure the notch on the pump jet is pointing up. You'll need patience when reinstalling them so take your time. Then drive it and see how it responds. If that doesnt work, I would suspect the rubber gaskets which were used to stop the dellorto whistle
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rhodyguy
post Dec 17 2017, 07:07 PM
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I don't get how it could bow down that much.
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98101
post Dec 23 2017, 03:54 PM
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So the gaskets weren't leaking (at least at idle). It does seem that the right side of the engine is pulling harder than the left off of idle. So I think I need to adjust the linkage.
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type2man
post Dec 23 2017, 04:48 PM
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Check to make sure the linkage arms both come off the stops at the same time. You can do this by placing your finger where it comes of the stop on one side and looking at the other side. Also the linkage arm rods should have the same angle from the linkage to the carb base area, if not they will open at different rates. Also it sounds like it running on three cylinders, check the idle jets and pump jets. Try lowering the idle half a turn at a time on each carb. I think what might have happened is that one linkage arm came loose and moved over and is causing the high idle by jamming the linkage arm. Both throttle arms have to be resting on the stops at idle
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98101
post Dec 23 2017, 08:46 PM
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QUOTE(type2man @ Dec 23 2017, 02:48 PM) *

Check to make sure the linkage arms both come off the stops at the same time. You can do this by placing your finger where it comes of the stop on one side and looking at the other side.

Thank you! I tried this tonight and was able to detect that the right carb was coming off the stop before the left. The trick of feeling one while watching the other was the clue I was missing before.

I adjusted the linkage rod and got them much closer. And now the engine responds SO MUCH BETTER coming off of idle. Previously it was very rough when you just barely put your foot on the gas, and now it's great ... up until the next flat spot. I'm excited that I was able to make some progress.

I checked again with the air flow meters and observed it was much improved, but still far from perfect. I guess an experienced mechanic could get the linkage right without the meters. But for me they're fun.

Does anyone happen to know the wrench sizes of those CB Performance linkage rod lock nuts? Are they metric? I don't own many tools yet and I'm afraid of cornering them with my crescent wrench.

QUOTE(type2man @ Dec 23 2017, 02:48 PM) *

Also the linkage arm rods should have the same angle from the linkage to the carb base area, if not they will open at different rates.

Mine do not have the same angle, and I don't see how to adjust it. The angle on the right carb (the second photo) looks especially awkward to me.
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QUOTE(type2man @ Dec 23 2017, 02:48 PM) *

Also it sounds like it running on three cylinders, check the idle jets and pump jets. Try lowering the idle half a turn at a time on each carb. I think what might have happened is that one linkage arm came loose and moved over and is causing the high idle by jamming the linkage arm. Both throttle arms have to be resting on the stops at idle

OK, I will look into this. It looks like I can still buy carb cleaner tomorrow.

As it arrived from previous owner, it starts instantly and idles at 800-900 when cold. When it's finally warm, the idle is way up there: 1200 or more.
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MarkV
post Dec 23 2017, 09:36 PM
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I does sound like it running on three cylinders. I would clean the idle jets. Those brass tubes that are sticking up with the slot head next to the carb throats are the idle jet holders. You unscrew them and pull the jet off the end of the holder and spray carb cleaner through them. You can hod the jet up to the light to see if it the orifice is clear. They are small so be careful not to lose one or drop it down the carb throat. I usually do it one at a time.

As for the angle of the linkage the actuator arm has a set screw that tightens into the hex bar. You can move the actuator from left to right so that they both have the same angle and are parallel. The swivel rod is also adjustable so that they both have the same slack. You want to make sure one of them isn't opening faster than the other.

The linkage is not metric. It set nut takes a 3/8" wrench but I use a small crescent wrench so that I can adjust it small enough to adjust the rod.

If you look at my photo you can see that my actuator arms are all the way at the end of the hex bar. Yours look like they are more inboard which doesn't really mater as long as they are both the same.

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