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> Another GB from 914rubber.com - Bet you cant break these. SOLID STAINLESS, Rear trailing arm Bushings and support rod $120 for the set
Mikey914
post Nov 30 2017, 10:59 AM
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Having the experience of rebuilding Matt's barn find, we noticed that there was rust around the edges of the tubes that went through the control arms. After cleaning these up we noticed that these were constructed from hollow tubes that had a plate with a bolt end welded on. The welds had not been cleaned up well and rust had pitted the them and allowed for water penetration actually allowing the inside of the tube to rust.

We made replacement simple. Machining the new tubes from stainless steel they will never be able to rust and fail.

Once we had the center shafts ready we made the bushings from rubber just like factory. These proved difficult to install, so we switched this up to poly-graphite and they we much easier to install.

So our "kit" comprises 2 - solid stainless steel pivot shafts, and 4 poly-graphite bushings.

I have 2 other GBs I'm about to post -
The front strut top rubber replacement
The A arm bushings - with or without special tools to install


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RoadGlue
post Nov 30 2017, 11:07 AM
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Just curious about how squeaky/creaky the poly-graphite bushings might end up being? Would it be a good idea to notch them out and use a grease fitting to keep the creaking to a minimum?

They look great!
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MikeM
post Nov 30 2017, 11:14 AM
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Yes I'd be interested to know about the squeaking and creaking also.
Been there, done that.
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brant
post Nov 30 2017, 11:42 AM
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Mark,

another very nice project.
and as an FYI: the factory "NUT" that goes onto this stock shaft is a split lock nut that is (last time I checked) NLA

I have one or two in the packaging still...
perhaps I'm wrong and they are in production now
but at the time I bought my "spare" it was NOS

the split/lock feature does wear out
any chance you are considering making that lock nut also with these wonderful products?

brant
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bbrock
post Nov 30 2017, 11:48 AM
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Can anyone comment on ride and handling characteristics of poly-graphite vs. factory rubber?
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Mikey914
post Nov 30 2017, 11:57 AM
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To answer the Question on these bushings.
1- No squeak these are actually a self lubricating bushing and you will note a "oily" residue on them. One of the reasons we went this way was because they are actually easier to install being self lubricating.
2-Durometer is slightly higher than OEM. This is because of the graphite.

Matty is currently running these on his car and he's been happy with the ride.
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Mikey914
post Nov 30 2017, 12:03 PM
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QUOTE(brant @ Nov 30 2017, 09:42 AM) *

Mark,

another very nice project.
and as an FYI: the factory "NUT" that goes onto this stock shaft is a split lock nut that is (last time I checked) NLA

I have one or two in the packaging still...
perhaps I'm wrong and they are in production now
but at the time I bought my "spare" it was NOS

the split/lock feature does wear out
any chance you are considering making that lock nut also with these wonderful products?

brant


I have thought about doing these but needed to talk to a hardware expert to determine if there is anything I might be missing here. I have the un-cut nuts (sounds s little wrong) for lack of a better term I can throw in. What I'm not sure is why the factory used these instead of another locking mechanism. There is usually a reason and I do not have much experience with this type of hardware.

But, Yes I can make them just want to make them correctly.
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BeatNavy
post Nov 30 2017, 03:44 PM
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Mark - I'm in for one of these as well. Is there tool needed to get these on or into the trailing arms? I've got the leftover installation tools from the "E brand" on my last go-round on this. That, without a doubt, was a fair PITA, even with a press.

Again, looks like another good value (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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amfab
post Nov 30 2017, 03:49 PM
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Since I am unable to work on my car for the next few months I have to do something—buying a set feels like something. Im in
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burton73
post Nov 30 2017, 03:57 PM
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QUOTE(amfab @ Nov 30 2017, 01:49 PM) *

Since I am unable to work on my car for the next few months I have to do something—buying a set feels like something. Im in


What happened to you I missed it are you OK?



Bob B
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yellowporky
post Nov 30 2017, 09:48 PM
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I will take a set too.
Thanks again for all of the parts
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Montreal914
post Nov 30 2017, 10:21 PM
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Hi Mark, nice product! ...as expected (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

What would be the difference between your poly-graphite bushings and the ones that Eric Shea sells?

Do you need to epoxy them in the trailing arm tube upon installation?
How tight do they fit, tooling required?
The arms are know to be somewhat out of round, how do you compensate for that?

Thank you.
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pete000
post Nov 30 2017, 10:25 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)

I'm in ! 2 sets !
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djway
post Nov 30 2017, 11:18 PM
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All in (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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bbrock
post Dec 1 2017, 10:01 AM
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I'm still trying to decide on these. I want to stay as close to the factory ride and feel as possible since I always thought that was about as perfect as it gets for a street car. When you say the rubber bushings were difficult to install, does that mean impossible, or just that you would need a press? And are rubber bushings off the table based on your experience with them? I think I'm in, but I'm totally clueless about how much harder bushings translate to ride comfort. Hopefully, it is negligible. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Mblizzard
post Dec 1 2017, 10:02 AM
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Crap! He got me again. I am in.
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Mikey914
post Dec 1 2017, 10:53 AM
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QUOTE(Montreal914 @ Nov 30 2017, 08:21 PM) *

Hi Mark, nice product! ...as expected (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

What would be the difference between your poly-graphite bushings and the ones that Eric Shea sells?

Do you need to epoxy them in the trailing arm tube upon installation?
How tight do they fit, tooling required?
The arms are know to be somewhat out of round, how do you compensate for that?

Thank you.

I can't comment on Eric's as I have no 1st hand experience.
You should not need to use any epoxy with these. Matt's literally slid in easily. Part of the problem with these is that the alignment of the bushings can bind the rod.

These bushings have some lubrication to them and you should be able to insert using a press. A large socket on the bottom with a washer and same set up on top should do the trick. You may be able to duplicate with a large hammer -- carefully.

As far as out of round, yes the ones we rebuilt were not perfect, but it really depends on the amount of damage you may have.

Mark
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76-914
post Dec 1 2017, 04:41 PM
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I'm glad to see you doing this Mark. I have done replacements on 2 914's (one was Ravi's) with the OEM rubber and urethane on another 914. After 10,000 miles the Urethane don't squeak as much as they used to. I'll never forget the first time out of the drive with those urethanes. I thought I had snapped a weld joint. Scared the (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif) out of me. As far as the ride goes I can't tell you because the 914 with urethane bushings has a modified suspension and rides stiffly anyways. The one with rubber is 100% stock so a soother ride. I would say that unless you have a press and 5 arms you might want to consider going with plastic vs. rubber and Mark seems to have the better of the 2 plastic bushing presently. In all fairness I should mention that I did not cut the slit or install a zero fitting as suggested by the other company. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Oh, forgot to mention this. The Haynes manual says the rubber ones can't be replaced and they're damned near right about that! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)
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Mike D.
post Dec 1 2017, 04:47 PM
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OK, It runs now, and pretty good too!
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Yep, in for this too! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Thanks
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Mikey914
post Dec 1 2017, 05:42 PM
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PMs sent with codes to all.
Thanks,
Mark
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