 Door braces to borrow for the winter in Metro NY/NJ |
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| Rockland914 |
 Dec 4 2017, 02:55 PM
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#1
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Newbie  Group: Members Posts: 22 Joined: 8-November 17 From: Montebello, NY Member No.: 21,586 Region Association: North East States  |
I will be starting a restoration of my 1970 1.7L in a few weeks. I will definitely need to repair both longitudinals since the car has slightly "buckled" and the door are not lining up. I will be building a dolly to put the car on. From what I can tell on the forum an adjustable door brace is a good idea over just keeping the doors in for alignment. I will be checking the targa to windshield measurements.
Does anybody have a set of braces I could borrow for the winter? I am in metro NY/NJ. Any instructions on how to make one? I have a Mig Welder. Is there a way to brace the car and keep the doors attached? Is it OK to keep the motor in the car while doing this? Hell hole looks OK, just need a new tray.  |
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| tygaboy |
Dec 4 2017, 03:18 PM
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#2
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,285 Joined: 6-October 15 From: Petaluma, CA Member No.: 19,241 Region Association: Northern California 
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Tangerine Racing makes a kit that allows you to keep the doors on.
Even if you can weld, it's nice to just buy the kit (it's a proven winner!) and get focused on "the real work". Just my opinion, but it worked for me... If you're repairing the tray in the engine compartment, you'll want to pull the drive train. And if your longs need repair, you may have hell hole issues you just can't see... yet. |
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| mgphoto |
Dec 4 2017, 03:54 PM
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#3
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"If there is a mistake it will find me" Group: Members Posts: 1,338 Joined: 1-April 09 From: Los Angeles, CA Member No.: 10,225 Region Association: Southern California |
[quote name='tygaboy' date='Dec 4 2017, 01:18 PM' post='2554863']
Tangerine Racing makes a kit that allows you to keep the doors on. Even if you can weld, it's nice to just buy the kit (it's a proven winner!) and get focused on "the real work". FYI, for the Racer Chris kit, the doors have to be removed. You can weld the doors shut, cheap way of doing it. Someone hear made a set from angle iron with turn buckles on the ends. Do a search (use Google ie: site:914world.com) |
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| bbrock |
Dec 4 2017, 04:14 PM
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#4
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains
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You can see pics of how I did mine here. There are much nicer designs but these were cheap, only took an hour to make, and have gotten the job done. Materials are 1/2" black iron pipe, two turnbuckles, two nuts to weld onto the sills, some 1" bar stock, and some bolts and washers. I was able to dial in dimensions with good precisions once the outer longs were off.
I agree with others about pulling the drive train. That will be way less work than trying to work with it in place. And consider your longs like a box of Cracker Jacks. There will be a nifty surprise inside every box. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) |
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| ChrisFoley |
Dec 4 2017, 04:43 PM
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#5
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I am Tangerine Racing Group: Members Posts: 7,922 Joined: 29-January 03 From: Bolton, CT Member No.: 209 Region Association: None
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QUOTE(mgphoto @ Dec 4 2017, 05:54 PM)  FYI, for the Racer Chris kit, the doors have to be removed. Don't argue with Tygaboy. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) My latest kit includes brackets that weld behind the speaker grills so the rods clear the closed doors. |
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| mgphoto |
Dec 4 2017, 06:24 PM
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#6
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"If there is a mistake it will find me" Group: Members Posts: 1,338 Joined: 1-April 09 From: Los Angeles, CA Member No.: 10,225 Region Association: Southern California |
QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Dec 4 2017, 02:43 PM) QUOTE(mgphoto @ Dec 4 2017, 05:54 PM) FYI, for the Racer Chris kit, the doors have to be removed. Don't argue with Tygaboy. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) My latest kit includes brackets that weld behind the speaker grills so the rods clear the closed doors. Well you learn something new everyday! |
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