Fuse box cover, buy a new cover or a new panel Options

[914_teener]

James, fast respect. We don't have "likes" on here, but I like what you said.
The pace..... I wish forums could keep up with social media. If it could, it would only mean gold.

If Andy comes up with a "like" button I.m done here.

I for one appreciate everyone's opinion wether it is subjective or objective and the resultant discourse. I believe it is healthy and informative so long as it is authentic and not someone trolling.

Let the OP make his objective decision by the discourse that ensues.

Ya aint gonna get that with "like".

[Rand]

I'm with you on this. Words, even as simple as "like" when typed are better than a button click. But social media is changing, whether we like it or not. I'm happily in the old-school, but have to work with current social media every day too.

[Front yard mechanic]

I was following this thread thinking someone could use one of the many cracked covers I have but decided I " don't LIKE this thread"

[Spoke]

As an EE, I wouldn't change the fuse panel unless there's something wrong with the original unit. Disturbing 40+ year old wiring is the best way to induce other wire/connector-related issues or mixing up wires.

If you like the modern fuses and are game to changing the fuse boxes, go for it. I would just clean all contacts and install new fuses. You must have a cover on the original box for the fuse box to be secure and enable robust and worry-free operation.

Just my $0.03.

[MarkV]

You guys have me thinking my car is going to spontaneously combust out in my garage.

I used to constantly knock the fuses out on to the foot well, usually at night...maybe I am just an oaf.

They used to sell the 12 circuit blade fuse panel at Digi-Key. I changed mine out about 10 years ago. I made a standoff plate out of 16 gauge metal and drilled holes in it to mount the female relay plugs and flasher relays. there really isn't anything to manufacture. I think I was careful not to strain any wires and so far it still works.

[Rand]

As an EE, I wouldn't change the fuse panel unless there's something wrong with the original unit. Disturbing 40+ year old wiring is the best way to induce other wire/connector-related issues or mixing up wires.

If you like the modern fuses and are game to changing the fuse boxes, go for it. I would just clean all contacts and install new fuses. You must have a cover on the original box for the fuse box to be secure and enable robust and worry-free operation.

Just my $0.03.

I respect your experience, but that's like saying you shouldn't upgrade an OLD VW from a 6V electrical system.

If 40 years old doesn't tell you what's wrong with it, the only other thing is accidentally knocking the obsolete chicklets loose. Upgrading things on your car isn't harmful if you do it right. Don't be afraid to make improvements to your car. My $0.01. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) New cars use blade fuses for a reason.

[Spoke]

As an EE, I wouldn't change the fuse panel unless there's something wrong with the original unit. Disturbing 40+ year old wiring is the best way to induce other wire/connector-related issues or mixing up wires.

If you like the modern fuses and are game to changing the fuse boxes, go for it. I would just clean all contacts and install new fuses. You must have a cover on the original box for the fuse box to be secure and enable robust and worry-free operation.

Just my $0.03.

I respect your experience, but that's like saying you shouldn't upgrade an OLD VW from a 6V electrical system.

If 40 years old doesn't tell you what's wrong with it, the only other thing is accidentally knocking the obsolete chicklets loose. Upgrading things on your car isn't harmful if you do it right. Don't be afraid to make improvements to your car. My $0.01. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) New cars use blade fuses for a reason.

You've read a bit much into my response.

I wrote: "unless there's something wrong with the original unit.". A 6V is wrong in today's 12V automotive environment and needs to be upgraded to 12V for compatibility with the rest of the world.

You wrote: "accidentally knocking the obsolete chicklets loose." This would assume as the fuses are knocked loose, the cover was also knocked loose. The original fuse panel should always have the cover on. The cover is part of the original fuse panel and must always be in place.

I wrote: "If you like the modern fuses and are game to changing the fuse boxes, go for it." My motto is if it ain't broke, don't fix it but if you want to fix it, do it.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[76-914]

I have 2 cars with the old style and the one I just purchased from Bob came with the JWest panel so I can speak to both styles. 1st, the old style is a good product and there is no need to change it out unless you knock the fuses out regularly. I did when wearing my 11.5 D work boots. So I made some covers from 3/16" polycarbonate that will withstand a direct nuclear blast. I also make it a point to spin the fuses whenever I'm in there. A couple of the holders are "sprung" and do not grip as well as the others.
The Jwest is a tighter fit but I found it easier to get into place by using my heat gun (a hair dryer on steroids) set on about 275F to soften the plastic sheathing. It takes about 15 min's to heat soak that bundle and you'll need some gloves to grab the heated bundle of wires when repositioning them. Just be sure to loosen the metal clamps that hold them in place before heating them and don't hold the gun too close. About 10" away is good. Always disconnect the ground before dropping & reinstalling the panel; OEM or JWest. The pro's of the JWest are; you won't need to spin any fuses and if you use they type blade fuse that lights up when it blows, you won't need an Ohm meter to test the fuses, and you can buy a blade fuse anywhere. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[slotty008]

Thank you all for your suggestions.
Until now , I've never bumped in to my fuse box ( probably because I have short legs and I never wear big shoes driving the car cos the pedals are too close together.)

So I'm gonna buy some new fuses and look for a cover that's reasonably priced and wich can be sent to Europe for a reasonable price.
Until now I couldn't find one in Europe, unless they still exist OEM

[euro911]

I too, have accidentally kicked the open-faced OEM fuse panel (mine didn't come with a cover). I picked up a pre-owned cover at a G&R swap meet and wrapped an appropriate length of Velcro around the panel & cover. Haven't kicked a fuse out since.

I also purchased an Engman panel some years ago ... just forgot where the heck I stashed it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)