Adding Heat to the Clown Car Options

[davebrossi]

So the OP is back, and I have finished the install! Some things to note that I learned along the way;
-studs on the heads can be changed. At some point they were replaced with longer studs meaning the barrel nuts I planned on using were useless. On the plus side, I have enough dexterity in my hands to reuse the original nuts.
-It would be a -really- cruel prank to dump a bunch of washers into a heat exchanger. I fished at least seven out with a magnet.
-at least in my instance I needed to lengthen the O2 sensor cable quite a bit.
-copper gasket compound does double duty in keeping the exhaust header gaskets in place while fitting up the manifolds to the heads. Just don't get it everywhere like I did.
-don't forget safety glasses when cutting into the engine tin

And now for the things I need to go back and fix;
-reroute the sparkplug wires/extend the wires (I know you can do so, but I'm not in a hurry.)
-go back and replace the studs on the heads with the correct length studs so I can actually put the headers on correctly and not via an elaborate dance
-Source the cause of the vaguely cooking rubber smell
-clean up the 5+ years of fluff, dust and everything else that blew into the cabin the first time I engaged the flapper valves
-replace pull cable and add protective rubber covers.
-drive it when it's really cold and feel accomplished.

[davebrossi]

Also; when the headers arrived they were packed in with packing peanuts. it was worth the three dollars at the self cash wash to use pressurized water to clean out all the ways packing peanuts can enter. That and a nice dance around the office to shake any loose and convince my staff I'm more insane than usual. "good lord, dave's taken to trying to rock a 30 lbs piece of stainless steel to sleep like a baby... always knew he'd go one day..."

[mepstein]

So the OP is back, and I have finished the install! Some things to note that I learned along the way;
-studs on the heads can be changed. At some point they were replaced with longer studs meaning the barrel nuts I planned on using were useless. On the plus side, I have enough dexterity in my hands to reuse the original nuts.
-It would be a -really- cruel prank to dump a bunch of washers into a heat exchanger. I fished at least seven out with a magnet.
-at least in my instance I needed to lengthen the O2 sensor cable quite a bit.
-copper gasket compound does double duty in keeping the exhaust header gaskets in place while fitting up the manifolds to the heads. Just don't get it everywhere like I did.
-don't forget safety glasses when cutting into the engine tin

And now for the things I need to go back and fix;
-reroute the sparkplug wires/extend the wires (I know you can do so, but I'm not in a hurry.)
-go back and replace the studs on the heads with the correct length studs so I can actually put the headers on correctly and not via an elaborate dance
-Source the cause of the vaguely cooking rubber smell
-clean up the 5+ years of fluff, dust and everything else that blew into the cabin the first time I engaged the flapper valves
-replace pull cable and add protective rubber covers.
-drive it when it's really cold and feel accomplished.

I have long exhaust studs on my 3.2 with Ben's heat exchangers. No way was I going to start unscrewing the studs. That's a recipe for broken studs. I just used some spacers. Once I had the heat exchanger placed on the stud, I slipped the spacer on and then the barrel nut. It's a little bit of a dance but not bad. You could also superglue the spacer on the heat exchanger before install. It will keep it in the right place while you tighten down the barrel nuts.

Snake a vacuum hose down the long. Its not an unusual place for mice to store stuff. At least its proof that the engine fan will move the hot air.

[GeorgeRud]

Using the spacers might be a good idea if the studs are too long as everyone has trepidations when removing them. We’ll have to let Ben know that enclosing them in a heavy garbage bag before using the packing peanuts might make unpacking them a bit easier once they arrive. Now go an enjoy driving the car with heat!

[mepstein]

Using the spacers might be a good idea if the studs are too long as everyone has trepidations when removing them. We’ll have to let Ben know that enclosing them in a heavy garbage bag before using the packing peanuts might make unpacking them a bit easier once they arrive. Now go an enjoy driving the car with heat!

A quick shot of air from the compressor will make sure every tube is peanut free.

[mb911]

Also; when the headers arrived they were packed in with packing peanuts. it was worth the three dollars at the self cash wash to use pressurized water to clean out all the ways packing peanuts can enter. That and a nice dance around the office to shake any loose and convince my staff I'm more insane than usual. "good lord, dave's taken to trying to rock a 30 lbs piece of stainless steel to sleep like a baby... always knew he'd go one day..."

Oh that was dumb on my behalf.. I typically use scrap shipping supplies from what is sent to me.. Brain fart on my behalf.. My apologies.

[davebrossi]

washing out the interior of the headers upon receipt was something I planned to do anyhow. Not really about removing dust or anything, but the shipping world is filled with cases of "oh dear, I seem to have smashed this person's box. Quick! fill it with a bunch of detritus and tape it up, they're never notice!"

[914forme]

For future reference, you can also hook up a leaf blower to the ducts as the drop down from the heat defroster selector. And blast all the crap back towards the engine side, before you hook up the heat. This saves you from cleaning the interior. You then have to just hose off the engine compartment.

I need to remember to do that myself, before I get to far (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

Enjoy the heat, glad it all worked out for you.

[burton73]

For future reference, you can also hook up a leaf blower to the ducts as the drop down from the heat defroster selector. And blast all the crap back towards the engine side, before you hook up the heat. This saves you from cleaning the interior. You then have to just hose off the engine compartment.

I need to remember to do that myself, before I get to far (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

Enjoy the heat, glad it all worked out for you.

Thanks for this great tip.

Bob B

[worn]

For future reference, you can also hook up a leaf blower to the ducts as the drop down from the heat defroster selector. And blast all the crap back towards the engine side, before you hook up the heat. This saves you from cleaning the interior. You then have to just hose off the engine compartment.

I need to remember to do that myself, before I get to far (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

Enjoy the heat, glad it all worked out for you.

Thanks for this great tip.

Bob B

But is he really saying you can use a leaf blower as a defroster fan? Fall is in the air and the squirrels are storing walnuts in my car.

[burton73]

For future reference, you can also hook up a leaf blower to the ducts as the drop down from the heat defroster selector. And blast all the crap back towards the engine side, before you hook up the heat. This saves you from cleaning the interior. You then have to just hose off the engine compartment.

I need to remember to do that myself, before I get to far (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

Enjoy the heat, glad it all worked out for you.

Thanks for this great tip.

Bob B

That tip is from Stephen! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

Bob B

[PanelBilly]

I finely got my heat exchangers from Ben mounted and plumbed. Plenty of heat for our fall days. I’m not getting any heat to the windshield yet, but I haven’t tried to figure it out either. I know the correct placements for the controls, but I only get cool heat so far