Front brake cooling duct orientation Options

[c/s914]

So I just fibreglassed in some brake ducts into my front bumper and realized after I did a test fit that they are counter cross-eyed (wall-eyed?) as the Sherdian bumper is angled inward slightly on the sides:

But as I was getting ready to cut the ducts back out too redo them ...I had an epiphany of sorts?

Except when something is spinning around in front of us, every time we brake on a racetrack it's before a corner. So wouldn't it make sense to have the duct orientated towards the direction of the car after we release the brakes for maximum cooling? Additionally there would be less drag on the straights if the cross section of the hole is more oblong? Yeah I can sell that in the paddock, right? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

Besides the car car looks wider and meaner this way too, ha! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

S.Chapman

[campbellcj]

I agree you may be under-braked for that car/tire setup - I'm only running a (race) 2.7 but went with Carrera wide-A calipers and vented rotors, Pagid pads, usually Endless or Motul comparable race fluid. Then later i added the Smart Racing Products duct backing plates similar to those ones shown above, except metal, and high-temp duct hose to the front spoiler inlets. I'm usually running ~10" Hoosier radial slicks on 8's and 9's.

The main issue I have is I need to remove the front spoiler to get the car on/off my current trailer, and that has become a significantly bigger PITA with the ducts installed. Also the duct hose is too vulnerable with this routing and it's expensive stuff. But, zero fade and excellent performance once this setup was all sorted.

[c/s914]

Currently I can out brake every car in this picture going into turn 2 except for the Wolf (...doesn’t mean that at least a half dozen of these cars can also outrun me everywhere else though, ha! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) )

Picture thanks to Kevin Doubleday

During the odd “both feet in” situations I have been known to momentarily lock up the fronts but can quickly regain the threshold point, so they seem pretty dialed in (with no fade when I ran some air to them from the front grille) ...and except for the afor mentioned front brakes failing and a very scary right rear lockup going over the hill at T1 (Villeneuve corner, as it is where Gilles dumped his Formula Atlantic in ‘77) I’m quite happy with the balance in the rear, although someday I may try some DTC-70’s back there and keep adjusting the tilton bar up to see if I am leaving anything on the table now that I’ve gone to a non-square setup?

So if I were to upgrade i’d hate to lose the feel, that crazy hard initial bite, and maybe an unsprung weight advantage (A 911s caliper probably weighs more dry, but do the wilwoods extra fluid capacity make them weigh more? ...not to mention the larger rotors must be heavier?)

...But as I develop the car, or start going to other faster tracks I’m sure I’ll be eating my words and back on this forum looking for the best setup (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

Stacy
Edit: PS when I said that I now have more power with the 3.6, it’s probably not that much as my 3.0L punched to 3.2 was also race built ...but with a very narrow power band, and this new engine is stock except for headers and a chip. Additionally I put the car on a diet and I’m 200lbs lighter now too despite this heavier engine

[wndsrfr]

, but do the wilwoods extra fluid capacity make them weigh more? ...not to mention the larger rotors must be heavier?)

Doubt the fluid adds any appreciable weight....certainly less than the pads themselves....
Here's a link to the rotors that I'm using....8.1 pounds but the aluminum "hat" that it bolts to is probably another 1 1/2 pounds....
http://www.wilwood.com/Rotors/RotorProd.aspx?itemno=160-0471