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> subi conversion questions
thelogo
post Jan 1 2018, 02:03 PM
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I would not want to flare the car only to accommodate
Twin rads

So would the gt oil cooler setup with a radiator in it instead of a oil cooler , do the job .

Its about a 3rd the size of renegade radiator but

That celica rad is not that big
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rnellums
post Jan 1 2018, 02:32 PM
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Mid 90s Jeep Cherokee radiator is the perfect size to fit under the decklid, but I've only seen pictures of one car that has done it successfully, and not many (so I'm not sure it really gets that much action).

My heart still says that a well engineered cooling system in the engine bay should work, but it has to be entirely fan cooled since there aren't any good high pressure zones around the engine bay.

At 80 mph, even a small radiator gets close to 10,000 cfm of air flow, which is hard to match, even with high performance electric fans.
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A&P Mech
post Jan 1 2018, 02:58 PM
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QUOTE(Mr. M @ Jan 1 2018, 10:38 AM) *

What year of Celica are you using for the radiator?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-ROW-ALUMINUM-RAD...c6P&vxp=mtr
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mepstein
post Jan 1 2018, 03:12 PM
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QUOTE(rnellums @ Jan 1 2018, 03:32 PM) *

Mid 90s Jeep Cherokee radiator is the perfect size to fit under the decklid, but I've only seen pictures of one car that has done it successfully, and not many (so I'm not sure it really gets that much action).

My heart still says that a well engineered cooling system in the engine bay should work, but it has to be entirely fan cooled since there aren't any good high pressure zones around the engine bay.

At 80 mph, even a small radiator gets close to 10,000 cfm of air flow, which is hard to match, even with high performance electric fans.

If it’s a street car, it’s the 95 degree day in stop and go traffic that would be my concern.
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hockeymutt
post Jan 1 2018, 06:27 PM
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QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Jan 1 2018, 09:08 AM) *

Hockeymutt, welcome to the madness that is Subaru powered 914s! It is nice to see another A&P on the world!
Yea I handle more avionics than power plant stuff but love tearing into an engine. The wiring harness should be a piece of cake. But with how cheap it is to pay some one to
Covert it, I may just send it off. 40-60 hours of my time is well worth $500.


QUOTE(rnellums @ Jan 1 2018, 12:32 PM) *

Mid 90s Jeep Cherokee radiator is the perfect size to fit under the decklid, but I've only seen pictures of one car that has done it successfully, and not many (so I'm not sure it really gets that much action).

My heart still says that a well engineered cooling system in the engine bay should work, but it has to be entirely fan cooled since there aren't any good high pressure zones around the engine bay.

At 80 mph, even a small radiator gets close to 10,000 cfm of air flow, which is hard to match, even with high performance electric fans.



Have any picture?
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Mike Bellis
post Jan 1 2018, 06:36 PM
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QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Jan 1 2018, 01:58 PM) *

QUOTE(Mr. M @ Jan 1 2018, 10:38 AM) *

What year of Celica are you using for the radiator?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-ROW-ALUMINUM-RAD...c6P&vxp=mtr

I also picked up a factory dual fan and shroud setup. Works fabulous.
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thelogo
post Jan 1 2018, 07:11 PM
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This is cool
Radiator is totally packaged
And frontal aspect is more minimized then
A rad that just stands up and out front



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A&P Mech
post Jan 1 2018, 08:13 PM
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Hockeymutt this is a very good build thread that covers what you are working towards.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...1&hl=Porsti
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rnellums
post Jan 2 2018, 04:45 AM
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QUOTE(mepstein @ Jan 1 2018, 02:12 PM) *

If it’s a street car, it’s the 95 degree day in stop and go traffic that would be my concern.

Low speed/low load shouldn't be taxing on just about any cooling system provided it's properly bled. High load is where you get into trouble.

QUOTE(hockeymutt @ Jan 1 2018, 05:27 PM) *

Have any picture?

I'm not sure that this is the Cherokee radiator (I think the cherokee is a bit wider), but you get the idea. Not great for engine access though...
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914forme
post Jan 2 2018, 12:08 PM
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Cherokee Rad

Overall Size: 35" x 11.50" x 6" / Core Size: 31.00" x 11.25" x 2.00"
Inlet: 1.25" / Outlet: 1.50"
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hockeymutt
post Jan 2 2018, 06:48 PM
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finally was able to complete the wrx engine and harness removal from the donor car. sitting on the cherry picker in my garage. Now time to fix some floor boards. Also have been cut off for this month spending wise, more progress to come. I'll post some pictures.

Also I'll never pull another harness from a suabru in 20 degree weather or at at all. No clue why you would route a harness behind a heater core for 6 inches. Was able to pull the whole thing 98% intact minus airbag wires. Kept the engine relay fuse panel and only cut one connector( think it was a fan relay) .

Lessons learned:
Bring bolt cutters to cut the harness that goes to the rear.
Don't forget the bolt that goes from the support bar to the firewall ( battled the bar for 30 mins before I realized it had to come out)
Air bag control box needs to come out
Cut connectors to non essential items early (I.e horn wiper motor headlights) the got in the way when routing back into the cabin
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Sleepin
post Jan 2 2018, 07:31 PM
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A V mount radiator and intercooler would be awesome in a 914.
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hockeymutt
post Jan 10 2018, 04:02 PM
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Trying to figure out the subaru trans right now. Have the wrx flywheel pressure and clutch combo installed ( pull type). I would have liked to have sourced the wrx trans but cannot find an affordable one at the moment up wards of 1k near me.

But i have found a ton of 2.5 impreza/forester trans for under $200 which use a push type and the slave cylinder is mounted on the side which I've read is better for clearance.

So to use the 2.5 trans would all i would need to use a 2.5 flywheel/pressure plate and clutch?
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mgp4591
post Jan 10 2018, 11:54 PM
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The idea of the radiator on the engine lid is interesting to say the least. There's the low pressure area right behind the rear window that will fill with air from underneath the car naturally and more so when the fans are on. And when you raise the radiator on the hinges, it should make it a snap to bleed the cooling system. The weight of the rad is up high which isn't the best but it's centrally located so it still helps the polar moment of inertia - not a bad thing at all. If you can move it up far enough you can still work on the engine but being a Subaru, you really won't have to work on it much at all.
I think I'm going to research this option a bit more.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
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914forme
post Jan 11 2018, 08:26 AM
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Add rubber skirting, a M1A1 Tank fan, and a snow mobile engine you will gain three things.

Power to draw the air through your mid engine radiator.

Power to create a sucker car, best handling 914 ever (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

And you now have a fun side business as a street sweeper.

Attached Image

All of this can happen just until some piece of derby gets pulled from the road surface and sucked through your radiator. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

Great local effort to build this car for $2700 bucks, driven by Danny Popp in this picture, set top time of the day several times. But Danny does that with out the sucker car.

As far as your trans question.

Subaru parts are like legos they all go togther with various degrees of success. Get in the mid 2000s on transmission and you will be good. Look for one with a 3.9 or higher ring and pinion your even better. All Subaru Trannys have a number on the bellhouseing that tells you what you got. The decoder ring can be found Here.

The MT5 cases changed some say the latter ones are stronger than the earlier ones. My feeling is they are cheaper than a 901, and stronger. Your making them 2 wheel drive, so less stress on the trans. And the weaker link in the puzzle if using a 914 CV will be the 914 CV. Think of it as a fuse. Or you can run skinny tires, which is also like a fuse.
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76-914
post Jan 11 2018, 08:28 AM
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I wouldn't put the radiator back there even if someone had a proven working design. It just throws another level of complication in the mix. Not to mention the need to work around that set up when trying to access the engine compartment. KISS. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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zipedadoo
post Jan 11 2018, 08:53 AM
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Bobcat skid steer loaders use a similar radiator set up. Granted it's not the same application but might give some ideas.

https://s.hswstatic.com/gif/skid-steer-service.jpg
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914GT
post Jan 11 2018, 06:25 PM
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I mounted a pair of small fans under my engine lid on my V8 conversion to get more airflow around the engine and carb. Initially I had these exhausting the hot air up and out through the lid, which seemed best since hot air rises. With this arrangement I soon had a very dirty and dusty engine and engine compartment. Dirt and debris off the road gets sucked up and covers everything. So I flipped the fans around so they blow down. Something else to consider with a radiator in the back and if you’re pulling air up from the bottom of the car.
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mgp4591
post Jan 11 2018, 11:51 PM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ Jan 11 2018, 07:28 AM) *

I wouldn't put the radiator back there even if someone had a proven working design. It just throws another level of complication in the mix. Not to mention the need to work around that set up when trying to access the engine compartment. KISS. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

It'd free up yer trunks and eliminate running coolant lines.... It's only a thought - I've already built a tunnel down the center for the coolant lines. I could use it for brake lines, a/c lines, and fuel lines though! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)
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Rotary'14
post Jan 12 2018, 07:30 AM
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QUOTE(rnellums @ Jan 2 2018, 02:45 AM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Jan 1 2018, 02:12 PM) *

If it’s a street car, it’s the 95 degree day in stop and go traffic that would be my concern.

Low speed/low load shouldn't be taxing on just about any cooling system provided it's properly bled. High load is where you get into trouble.

QUOTE(hockeymutt @ Jan 1 2018, 05:27 PM) *

Have any picture?

I'm not sure that this is the Cherokee radiator (I think the cherokee is a bit wider), but you get the idea. Not great for engine access though...
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Actually that's a VW VR6 corrado? radiator. It also does great in stop and go for a rotary which runs hotter than normal piston motors (I bet it can handle a non turbo subie 4 cylinder). The car does run a bit hot on hot days,, but I think this can be resolved with better ducting from underneath as there is none right now. As far as engine access,, I have no problems changing my spark plugs,, and changing belts is still easier than on a type IV.
-Robert
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