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> Transaxle seal replacement, how do I replace the transaxle seals
Brenda
post Jan 4 2018, 03:35 PM
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Anyone know the a place I can get the instructions to replace the transaxle output flange seals and also the speedometer cable on the transaxle? I have checked the Haynes and the Chilton manual, Pelican parts, Auto Atlanta but can't find the info. Maybe I am not searching the correct names?
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914Sixer
post Jan 4 2018, 03:42 PM
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Undo the bolt and pull the drive flange out. Use seal puller and take out seal. Lube up the new seal and tap in gently until flush. Install flange and torque bolt to spec.
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Lucky9146
post Jan 4 2018, 04:17 PM
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QUOTE(914Sixer @ Jan 4 2018, 01:42 PM) *

Undo the bolt and pull the drive flange out. Use seal puller and take out seal. Lube up the new seal and tap in gently until flush. Install flange and torque bolt to spec.


What he said and agree on the seal puller not a screw driver.

After first removing the axles from the flanges and then when reinstalling the flange bolts to the axles get and use new Schnoor washers. Good luck!

Found info in Haynes see Page 87 #14 Final Drive Shaft Oil Seals Renewal
Drive Flange Expansion Bolt Torque 25 - 29 Ft Lb
Looking for axle flange screw torques (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

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tomeric914
post Jan 4 2018, 05:22 PM
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Buy no fewer than 6 seals before you start the job. They're inexpensive and you'll likely mess up at least one of them on installation.
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jim_hoyland
post Jan 5 2018, 08:10 AM
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QUOTE(tomeric914 @ Jan 4 2018, 03:22 PM) *

Buy no fewer than 6 seals before you start the job. They're inexpensive and you'll likely mess up at least one of them on installation.


Good info (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Is there a part number we can use ?
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Dr Evil
post Jan 5 2018, 09:41 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) I have a DVD that covers all transmission stuff like this, but way more and you may not need it.

The output shaft seals are 999 113 183 40
Attached Image

Take a 19mm socket, a punch, stick the punch through a bolt hole to hold the flange and then remove the 19mm bolt (only supposed to be like 19ft/lb). Seal puller is cheap and removes the seal easy. Be careful not to mar the sealing surface in the case with it, though.

For the speedo, oring is 999 701 084 50
Attached Image

Removal can be a pain in the ass. Remove the bolt (#30) and pull. Drain tranz first, or you will instantly do so when speedo is removed. Clean the bore before insertion and file down any burrs on the shaft of the speedo drive so it will go in and out easier and seal better.

For part numbers and pics, and where I get them, https://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesands...partscatalogue/

Or google "Porsche PET" and go to the official Porsche link and enter in your model number.
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sixaddict
post Jan 5 2018, 09:55 AM
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Dr. E:

My track car has spit out the left side output shaft seal twice and caused havoc on hard right turns.
Any thoughts on why this would happen twice ( other than the competency of the installer). What do you use to tap the new seal in place?
How far in should it go?
Second time I had extra seals in the tool box so never even missed a session.
Thanks

Terry
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jd74914
post Jan 5 2018, 10:03 AM
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I'd check to make sure the oil fill plug comes out before doing any of this too (esp. if changing speedo o-ring). (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Jan 5 2018, 02:33 PM
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QUOTE(sixaddict @ Jan 5 2018, 10:55 AM) *

Dr. E:

My track car has spit out the left side output shaft seal twice and caused havoc on hard right turns.
Any thoughts on why this would happen twice ( other than the competency of the installer). What do you use to tap the new seal in place?
How far in should it go?
Second time I had extra seals in the tool box so never even missed a session.
Thanks

Terry

Terry,

This happened to another racer, Wndsrfr I think, after I built his box. I think some seals are just not as good, or a run of them, wasn't as yall are the only two I know of. He lost two as well and I think we went with a Porsche seal and it has been fine. Old style/Porsche have ribs on the mating surface, the new ones often are smooth. This could be part if the issue.

As for how deep to install, if you look into the bore for the seal you will notice a shoulder where the ID starts to narrow to hold the seal. I install right to where the seal is flush with this shoulder as that gives the most contact/friction surface. I use a big round aluminum plug and then lightly tap into place around the periphery until seated. If I go to far (and box is apart) I just push it through and start over.

JD, great point on the drain plug. NEVER remove the oil without first making sure you can remove the fill plug or you will be stranded with an empty box.
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jim_hoyland
post Jan 5 2018, 03:34 PM
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Dr. E, Will my new rebuild have new output flange seals ? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Jan 5 2018, 04:14 PM
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QUOTE(jim_hoyland @ Jan 5 2018, 04:34 PM) *

Dr. E, Will my new rebuild have new output flange seals ? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Well, ya, of course. All new seals. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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Brenda
post Jan 6 2018, 03:50 PM
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thanks for the info. appreciate it
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