Headlight question |
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Headlight question |
cedric9146 |
Jan 12 2018, 01:59 AM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 18 Joined: 19-September 12 From: Belgium Member No.: 14,948 Region Association: Europe |
Hi guys, need your help !
I'm not a mechanic at all, but want to fix my car myself for once ! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Driver side High beam is not working. All rest is fine. What could it be? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) They are sealed beam lamps, so i presume the high and normal driving bulbs are inside, and you can not open it? So need to replace it with a complete new light? Fuses are ok. Removed the plastic cover and chrome ring. There is only one big plug connected. What is the small white wire for? I have read about replacing them by H4's . Is this just plug and play? Thanks for the help ! Cedric Attached thumbnail(s) |
mihai914 |
Jan 12 2018, 06:48 AM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 800 Joined: 2-March 05 From: Montreal, QC Member No.: 3,697 Region Association: None |
Hi,
The white wire is your power to the high beam. You just need to put it back in the connector and it will most likely work. If you still have issues, you can try and swap the headlights from side to side just so you’ll know that you’re not dealing with a bad headlight. Going to H4s is a nice upgrade and not very expensive. Just be sure to buy quality. |
clapeza |
Jan 12 2018, 07:06 AM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 229 Joined: 7-February 11 From: South GA Member No.: 12,677 Region Association: South East States |
The H4 housing upgrade is a perfect time to upgrade to LED bulbs as well! Brighter, whiter light, and less pull on the electrical system.
H4 Housings: http://shop.914rubber.com/H4-Glass-Housing...eg-bulbs-H4.htm LED bulbs: http://shop.914rubber.com/LED-Headlight-bulbs-H4LEDS2.htm |
cedric9146 |
Jan 12 2018, 10:01 AM
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#4
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 18 Joined: 19-September 12 From: Belgium Member No.: 14,948 Region Association: Europe |
Hi, The white wire is your power to the high beam. You just need to put it back in the connector and it will most likely work. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif) I feel stupid (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
cedric9146 |
Jan 12 2018, 10:05 AM
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#5
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 18 Joined: 19-September 12 From: Belgium Member No.: 14,948 Region Association: Europe |
The H4 housing upgrade is a perfect time to upgrade to LED bulbs as well! Brighter, whiter light, and less pull on the electrical system. H4 Housings: http://shop.914rubber.com/H4-Glass-Housing...eg-bulbs-H4.htm LED bulbs: http://shop.914rubber.com/LED-Headlight-bulbs-H4LEDS2.htm LED is not allowed to pass the technical control here in Belgium. So the H4 setup is just with the same plug? |
clapeza |
Jan 12 2018, 10:53 AM
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#6
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Member Group: Members Posts: 229 Joined: 7-February 11 From: South GA Member No.: 12,677 Region Association: South East States |
The H4 housing upgrade is a perfect time to upgrade to LED bulbs as well! Brighter, whiter light, and less pull on the electrical system. H4 Housings: http://shop.914rubber.com/H4-Glass-Housing...eg-bulbs-H4.htm LED bulbs: http://shop.914rubber.com/LED-Headlight-bulbs-H4LEDS2.htm LED is not allowed to pass the technical control here in Belgium. So the H4 setup is just with the same plug? Oh. Sorry. Pity. They really are nice, bright, and uniform lighting. Yes, the H4 bulbs plug right in to the factory harness. |
bbrock |
Jan 12 2018, 10:59 AM
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#7
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Hi, The white wire is your power to the high beam. You just need to put it back in the connector and it will most likely work. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif) I feel stupid (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) There should be a little tab on the back of the terminal on that white wire that you might want to GENTLY bend up just a little with a small standard screwdriver to help it lock into place in the plastic plug so it doesn't pop out again. But once that female terminal is on the blade of the bulb terminal, it will be secure, so don't sweat it if it still wants to pop out. |
Phoenix914 |
Jan 12 2018, 11:02 AM
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#8
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Member Group: Members Posts: 389 Joined: 6-December 06 From: Oviedo, FL Member No.: 7,322 Region Association: South East States |
The H4 bulbs will plug in to the existing harness, but installing a relay is necessary to avoid cooking the headlight switch or something else that isn't designed for the additional current. Ask me how I know. What I don't know is how to properly install the relay and fix my column switch that is no longer switching between high and low beams.
Maybe someone else can chime in on that point? |
malcolm2 |
Jan 12 2018, 11:38 AM
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#9
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,729 Joined: 31-May 11 From: Nashville Member No.: 13,139 Region Association: South East States |
There should be a little tab on the back of the terminal on that white wire that you might want to GENTLY bend up just a little with a small standard screwdriver to help it lock into place in the plastic plug so it doesn't pop out again. But once that female terminal is on the blade of the bulb terminal, it will be secure, so don't sweat it if it still wants to pop out. I googled: "female wire connector with tab" the connector on the left shows the tab. The tab may be missing or as mentioned it need to be re-sprung into the proper place to keep the connector in the 3 wire housing. If it is missing, once you connect the 3-wire connector to the bulb, you can just slide the white wire in to the proper place on the 3-wire connector. Give it a slight tug once you think you have it connected. If it is loose you need to work on the connector a bit to make it hold |
burton73 |
Jan 12 2018, 12:21 PM
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#10
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burton73 Group: Members Posts: 3,461 Joined: 2-January 07 From: Los Angeles Member No.: 7,414 Region Association: Southern California |
Hi, The white wire is your power to the high beam. You just need to put it back in the connector and it will most likely work. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif) I feel stupid (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Don’t feel stupid. Everyone needs to start at one place. I remember what a technician guy told me when I was 16. Always look for a witness mark. Something that does not look right. Stare at each part and look for any thing that is funny. I worked at a stereo and TV shop delivering TV sets and they did work on Bad TVs in the back (this was tube time in the mid 60s) The guys would tap each part and some times smack the TV to se if something was a loose. Looking for evidence of how a bolt or washer was held in place. I stare at stuff a lot. It is a fact for a QC guy but can be a challenge when you see everything that is wrong. Bob B (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) |
Spoke |
Jan 12 2018, 02:13 PM
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#11
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Jerry Group: Members Posts: 6,964 Joined: 29-October 04 From: Allentown, PA Member No.: 3,031 Region Association: None |
LED is not allowed to pass the technical control here in Belgium. I've known guys to change items on their cars (very wide rims and tires hanging outside the fenders and really loud or no mufflers) to stock items just to pass inspection. After the inspection, put the fun stuff back on. |
mepstein |
Jan 12 2018, 02:40 PM
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#12
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914-6 GT in waiting Group: Members Posts: 19,142 Joined: 19-September 09 From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE Member No.: 10,825 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
LED is not allowed to pass the technical control here in Belgium. I've known guys to change items on their cars (very wide rims and tires hanging outside the fenders and really loud or no mufflers) to stock items just to pass inspection. After the inspection, put the fun stuff back on. I saw a reply to that from another Belgium or Germany member, cant remember which, who said if they were in an accident, insurance would inspect the car and deny claim if they had non-approved parts. |
porschetub |
Jan 12 2018, 03:18 PM
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#13
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,695 Joined: 25-July 15 From: New Zealand Member No.: 18,995 Region Association: None |
LED is not allowed to pass the technical control here in Belgium. I've known guys to change items on their cars (very wide rims and tires hanging outside the fenders and really loud or no mufflers) to stock items just to pass inspection. After the inspection, put the fun stuff back on. I saw a reply to that from another Belgium or Germany member, cant remember which, who said if they were in an accident, insurance would inspect the car and deny claim if they had non-approved parts. Yep same in my country,I will remove my LED headlights because the supplier mentioned they aren't quite legal here,I didn't ask why and don't know,could it be the shape of the beam or the brightness (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) . I will check the government pages and see why,all the other mods on my car have to be individually complied and listed on a metal plate riveted to the car. |
98101 |
Jan 12 2018, 06:47 PM
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#14
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Michael in Seattle Group: Members Posts: 373 Joined: 7-October 17 From: Seattle, WA Member No.: 21,495 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I saw a reply to that from another Belgium or Germany member, cant remember which, who said if they were in an accident, insurance would inspect the car and deny claim if they had non-approved parts. On the plus side, I’m not sure I’d survive a crash in my 914 anyway. |
cedric9146 |
Jan 13 2018, 01:33 AM
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#15
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 18 Joined: 19-September 12 From: Belgium Member No.: 14,948 Region Association: Europe |
There should be a little tab on the back of the terminal on that white wire that you might want to GENTLY bend up just a little with a small standard screwdriver to help it lock into place in the plastic plug so it doesn't pop out again. But once that female terminal is on the blade of the bulb terminal, it will be secure, so don't sweat it if it still wants to pop out. I googled: "female wire connector with tab" the connector on the left shows the tab. The tab may be missing or as mentioned it need to be re-sprung into the proper place to keep the connector in the 3 wire housing. If it is missing, once you connect the 3-wire connector to the bulb, you can just slide the white wire in to the proper place on the 3-wire connector. Give it a slight tug once you think you have it connected. If it is loose you need to work on the connector a bit to make it hold Noticed that the connectors are not looking verry fresh, so will replace them all, with a new plastic plug. Small piece broke off. |
bbrock |
Jan 13 2018, 10:47 AM
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#16
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Noticed that the connectors are not looking verry fresh, so will replace them all, with a new plastic plug. Small piece broke off. Those flag terminals can be a PITA to crimp properly because standard crimping tools don't work on them. I crimped mine with end crimpers but also soldered them to be sure. I would just clean them up. Soaking them in lemon juice or vinegar mixed with salt will brighten them up. A scotch brite pad also works well. I shot all of mine with contact cleaner after cleaning them up a bit and then gooped in dielectric grease to help protect from future corrosion. |
JeffBowlsby |
Jan 13 2018, 11:13 AM
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#17
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914 Wiring Harnesses Group: Members Posts: 8,439 Joined: 7-January 03 From: San Ramon CA Member No.: 104 Region Association: None |
Great advice for cleaning the terminals up, but its not recommended to solder wires to wire terminals, where the condition can transmit vibration between the mounted equipment (headlight assembly) that is fixed to the chassis, and a wire that is free to flex and move around. The soft copper wire will fracture right at that fixed-to flex interface over time. A crimped only connection is designed to accommodate that movement.
Soldering a wire to wire splice where the splice is free hanging and free to move on both sides is not an issue. |
bbrock |
Jan 13 2018, 11:45 AM
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#18
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Great advice for cleaning the terminals up, but its not recommended to solder wires to wire terminals, where the condition can transmit vibration between the mounted equipment (headlight assembly) that is fixed to the chassis, and a wire that is free to flex and move around. The soft copper wire will fracture right at that fixed-to flex interface over time. A crimped only connection is designed to accommodate that movement. Soldering a wire to wire splice where the splice is free hanging and free to move on both sides is not an issue. Good to know. Lucky for me, the only flag terminals that I crimped and soldered were the fog light terminals on a car that has no fog lights. So, they are only for decoration at the moment. If I ever add fog lights, I guess I'll have to redo those terminals. Might redo them anyway if I can figure out a good way to crimp without a fancy flag terminal crimper. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
restore2seater |
Jan 13 2018, 12:03 PM
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#19
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Future 914 copilot. Group: Members Posts: 311 Joined: 30-October 04 From: Dunlap,IL Member No.: 3,037 Region Association: None |
Great advice for cleaning the terminals up, but its not recommended to solder wires to wire terminals, where the condition can transmit vibration between the mounted equipment (headlight assembly) that is fixed to the chassis, and a wire that is free to flex and move around. The soft copper wire will fracture right at that fixed-to flex interface over time. A crimped only connection is designed to accommodate that movement. Soldering a wire to wire splice where the splice is free hanging and free to move on both sides is not an issue. Jeff, What's your opinion if you soldered the connection then used heat shrink over the solder connection and wire insulation? |
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