Help - Repairs to Suspension Console & Ear, Expert, insight and recommendations V8 street/track car Options

[ajracer]

Greetings 914 Friends:

Thought best to post my inquiry on the Paddock mainly because these members are the ones that go over and above the norm when resolving engineering and performance challenges, especially with heavy or extreme use. The search function and trying to locate prior post and solutions of others, has been a big challenge to try and locate after scanning through 50+ pages of posts with little success; so here is my situation.

So the Teener is a 1974 with LS6 Chev motor mated to Audi 6 speed transaxle. Car is highly modified for aggressive street use and limited time trail track events. However since 2005 the car only had a 300 HP motor, which was then replaced in 2015 with the current 500 HP motor and drive train, which includes a structural steel drive-line cradle that provides significant support in the rear section of the vehicle.

Background on the vehicle which was mainly built by prior owner that installed a Roll bar cage setup without any front interior "front" roll cage bar nor any bars to the front suspension. The main roll bar ties together the Floor (longs) -and Upward to top seat belt mounts; forward angled to front of door jambs. Rearward the roll bars are tied into the sheet metal sections of the spring/shock mounts.

Since I took over the project (2004) to re-engineer and complete building the street / track vehicle I had installed both the interior re-enforcement kits (3 pcs. left, rear & rights side of longs. In addition welded in the exterior long re-enforcement kit which ran from the front of longs, including the extension into the rear suspension mounts (where 3 bolts secure trailing arms) Additionally all the seams of the suspension console and inner ear were seam welded for additional support; plus the engine to chassis mounts are also seam welded and re-enforced.

PROBLEM: for which looking for some insight and help from 914 members:

1/ As noted in the attached Photo of the outer suspension console rust and fatigue can be seen near the arm mounting bolts

2. The light sheet metal support on the bottom of the long (inside engine bay) shows some cracking near the Engine mounting bar support to chassis.

Comment: based upon a recent inspection by a 914 friend he indicated because of the serious strength of the drive-line cradle, I t would be excellent idea to build custom brackets to secure the Inner ears to the cradle to minimize additional flexing of the rear section of car. He also mentioned good idea to cut out and re-enforce the structural cross brace which supports the rear of the drive line cradle, thus addition of steel channel support full width (inside trunk) will provide stiffness to reduce possibility of further structural cracking and metal fatigue in the vehicle

Very interested to hear from members on how or what type of approach they have successfully taken to resolve and repair a similar problem to the one indicated here. Apologize for the long post, however the more details provided gives a clearer picture for the serious car guys to respond. Thanks kindly, and Happy New Year to all that read the entire post and provide some guidance. Cheers,

Allan
Toronto, Ontario

[914forme]

Tangerine Racing Talk to Chris, I would go with his suspension pickup point and raising kit. Very stout pieces and high quality kit. The kit changes the rear geometry for lowered cars, can be used on the street. It a huge chunk of steel square tube and plate. Makes the stock sheet metal look a tad weak. And replaces that entire section of sheet metal ears and console areas.



Restoration design makes the inner console.

Chris also makes and outter console re-inforcement kit, and outer console bolt up stuff.

Your using Brad's kit so it might be easier unless you want to cut Brad's metal ear tab off to go with a more stock solution.

[Heater Guy]

Greetings 914 Friends:

Thought best to post my inquiry on the Paddock mainly because these members are the ones that go over and above the norm when resolving engineering and performance challenges, especially with heavy or extreme use. The search function and trying to locate prior post and solutions of others, has been a big challenge to try and locate after scanning through 50+ pages of posts with little success; so here is my situation.

So the Teener is a 1974 with LS6 Chev motor mated to Audi 6 speed transaxle. Car is highly modified for aggressive street use and limited time trail track events. However since 2005 the car only had a 300 HP motor, which was then replaced in 2015 with the current 500 HP motor and drive train, which includes a structural steel drive-line cradle that provides significant support in the rear section of the vehicle.

Background on the vehicle which was mainly built by prior owner that installed a Roll bar cage setup without any front interior "front" roll cage bar nor any bars to the front suspension. The main roll bar ties together the Floor (longs) -and Upward to top seat belt mounts; forward angled to front of door jambs. Rearward the roll bars are tied into the sheet metal sections of the spring/shock mounts.

Since I took over the project (2004) to re-engineer and complete building the street / track vehicle I had installed both the interior re-enforcement kits (3 pcs. left, rear & rights side of longs. In addition welded in the exterior long re-enforcement kit which ran from the front of longs, including the extension into the rear suspension mounts (where 3 bolts secure trailing arms) Additionally all the seams of the suspension console and inner ear were seam welded for additional support; plus the engine to chassis mounts are also seam welded and re-enforced.

PROBLEM: for which looking for some insight and help from 914 members:

1/ As noted in the attached Photo of the outer suspension console rust and fatigue can be seen near the arm mounting bolts

2. The light sheet metal support on the bottom of the long (inside engine bay) shows some cracking near the Engine mounting bar support to chassis.

Comment: based upon a recent inspection by a 914 friend he indicated because of the serious strength of the drive-line cradle, I t would be excellent idea to build custom brackets to secure the Inner ears to the cradle to minimize additional flexing of the rear section of car. He also mentioned good idea to cut out and re-enforce the structural cross brace which supports the rear of the drive line cradle, thus addition of steel channel support full width (inside trunk) will provide stiffness to reduce possibility of further structural cracking and metal fatigue in the vehicle

Very interested to hear from members on how or what type of approach they have successfully taken to resolve and repair a similar problem to the one indicated here. Apologize for the long post, however the more details provided gives a clearer picture for the serious car guys to respond. Thanks kindly, and Happy New Year to all that read the entire post and provide some guidance. Cheers,

Allan
Toronto, Ontario

I bought the LH side that I never used. I paid $120.00 from EASY in Emeryville, CA. It has no rust and in real good shape. I will never use it. Sell for the same price I bought it for.