Engine not running smoothly, non-brake related questions Options

[solex]

Ok so I believe I am on the road to recovery with regards to the brakes (thank you all!). I now am tackling another problem regarding the engine in my 75 2.0L.

Symptoms:
The engine seems to stumble when the accelerator is pressed to the floor (when warm).

On occasion when coming to a stop the engine idle remains at 3K or it takes a few seconds to return to what I would consider a normal idle. I sometimes have to juice it in order for the idle to return to normal. The cable does not appear to be sticking.

In general when the engine is warm the engine is not smooth, idle is rough and acceleration and deceleration are also rough.

What I have done:
-Replaced the BOSCH Platnium plugs with Copper W7CC
-Replaced the Fuel Filter
-Repaired the broken connector to the temperature guage on the top of the engine
-Checked for vacuum leaks and replaced hoses as necessary

Where will I look next:
Based on my search in this forum I believe that I need to look at the following (comments/suggestions are requested):

- Check the point gap and timing
- Remove and inspect/clean throttle body
- Remove and inspect/clean distributor, with particular attention to the trigger points
- Install a fuel pressure guage and make sure the pressure is 28-29 psi
- Anything else?

Questions
- Is there a method to check the TPS?
- How do I know if the trigger points are bad or failing?
- Where is the best place for the fuel pressure gauge?

[drgchapman]

Replace the CHT. I had the same issues, replaced the CHT this last weekend, viola, car runs better than ever! You need a deep well 13mm socket and swivel. The socket needs to have a window cut into it to run the wire through, I used a carbide bur in a dremel to cut the window after placing starting holes with the drill press. Sorry no pics....at work right now. This is a cheap and easy way to solve weird throttle issues.

[solex]

I should have mentioned in the symptoms that my temperature guage never budges from the extreme left of the red part of the guage.

Is the CHT sender easy to replace with the engine in the car also is this the sender the guage is reading from? What is the purpose of the other temperature sender under the center of the intake manifold?

Thanks,
Dan

[crash914]

1st. Adjust your valves
2nd. check your timing, sounds advanced
3rd. check normal voltages as per Haynes manual
4th. install a 6 cylinder....

[drgchapman]

The CHT provides engine head temp information to the MPS for the correct air-fuel mixtures. Mixtures vary depending on temp, the MPS uses the CHT for determining the correct mixture. Replacing it requires the customization of a 13 mm deep well socket to perform the swap with the engine tin on. The CHT sits between the intake runners on the passenger side. The oil temp guage resides in the oil pan area (big black round plate on bottom of engine). They are not related.

[drgchapman]

OOPS, forgot, the sender on the side (bottom) of the air plenum is the cold start, running enrichment thingy. Adds fuel, richens the mixture further under cold start conditions.

[crash914]

all of the check procedures, values are in the haynes book...get one and use it!!

CHT is possible, also is trigger points...mps....tps.....rotor....points gap...etc....

I like CHT, you can do it in the car...go get a cheap 10mm deep socket and drill a hole for the lead, or get an extension and grind down a corner...go slow..

I might have an extra here somewhere........ (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

[Rand]

Before you cut into that deep socket to replace a CHT, see if you can coil the wire up and get it to fit inside the socket. It's been done that way before.

[solex]

Update,

The CHT circuit was the problem. Eventually I could not start the car and traced the problem to broken wire at the CHT. I repaired the wire and the car is now running.

Thank you all for the suggestions.
Dan