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> Heating
moost
post Jan 27 2018, 07:19 PM
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Everything works in my car except the heating. All 3 functions work on the dash and air comes out the dash and vents. Heat exchanger, tin and hoses all look good. The only thing i can see so far is the missing heat lever and cable that attaches to the valve. Is there anyway to bypass the lever and keep the heat on permanently? Would it be as easy as keeping the valve opened? What is the wire that connects to the lever for?
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SirAndy
post Jan 27 2018, 07:23 PM
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The wire turns on the heater blower in the engine bay, if you have one.

I guess you could keep the valves open manually, they're spring loaded, so you'll have to find a way to keep the arms extended.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
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moost
post Jan 27 2018, 07:33 PM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Jan 27 2018, 07:23 PM) *

The wire turns on the heater blower in the engine bay, if you have one.

I guess you could keep the valves open manually, they're spring loaded, so you'll have to find a way to keep the arms extended.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)


Ahhh okay. I do not have the heat blower then. I was wondering how the heat would transfer through the cabin up into the dash (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Thanks
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bbrock
post Jan 27 2018, 07:54 PM
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You still get a lot of heat without the blower. The engine fan blows heat to the dash. The blower only comes on when the heat lever is pulled all the way up. If it were me, I'd get a heat lever and cable as they are not expensive. You could worry about the blower later. I think if you just wire the flapper valves open, you will cook yourself. The system produces a surprising amount of heat.
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mepstein
post Jan 27 2018, 08:30 PM
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QUOTE(bbrock @ Jan 27 2018, 08:54 PM) *

You still get a lot of heat without the blower. The engine fan blows heat to the dash. The blower only comes on when the heat lever is pulled all the way up. If it were me, I'd get a heat lever and cable as they are not expensive. You could worry about the blower later. I think if you just wire the flapper valves open, you will cook yourself. The system produces a surprising amount of heat.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) with everything above. The stock heating system, even without the blower (I don’t have one) will cook you in the cabin. Just get a used lever-$25 and a cable from 914rubber ~$35 and you should be set. You will love a good working system.
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jim_hoyland
post Jan 27 2018, 08:46 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) And, if you don’t feel the heat after running 5 minutes, crack the driver side window about 3 inches. It will “pull” the hot air up into the cabin. I gradually close the window as it heats up.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Spoke
post Jan 27 2018, 09:27 PM
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So you have confirmed all the plumbing to and from the heat exchangers including:
o Pipes from the fan shroud to the HEs
o Pipes/hoses/flapper valve from the HEs to the pipes that go to the cabin.

If all is there, but the guide wire from the handle in the cabin is missing, for a quick fix to get heat just wire the flapper valves to be open. Pull the lever on the flapper and wire it to anything solid under the engine. Having the valves open full time is ok since there's not a lot of heat coming off the HEs in real cold weather.

Some pics of the plumbing under the car to/from the HEs would be helpful.
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moost
post Jan 28 2018, 02:53 AM
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QUOTE(mepstein @ Jan 27 2018, 08:30 PM) *

QUOTE(bbrock @ Jan 27 2018, 08:54 PM) *

You still get a lot of heat without the blower. The engine fan blows heat to the dash. The blower only comes on when the heat lever is pulled all the way up. If it were me, I'd get a heat lever and cable as they are not expensive. You could worry about the blower later. I think if you just wire the flapper valves open, you will cook yourself. The system produces a surprising amount of heat.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) with everything above. The stock heating system, even without the blower (I don’t have one) will cook you in the cabin. Just get a used lever-$25 and a cable from 914rubber ~$35 and you should be set. You will love a good working system.

Any heat will help at this point. I'm mostly concerned about my defrost not working. My windows tend to fog up since I usually have a lot of condensation in the cabin. I'll try to wire the flapper valves open and see if i get any heat.
QUOTE(jim_hoyland @ Jan 27 2018, 08:46 PM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) And, if you don’t feel the heat after running 5 minutes, crack the driver side window about 3 inches. It will “pull” the hot air up into the cabin. I gradually close the window as it heats up.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
QUOTE(Spoke @ Jan 27 2018, 09:27 PM) *

So you have confirmed all the plumbing to and from the heat exchangers including:
o Pipes from the fan shroud to the HEs
o Pipes/hoses/flapper valve from the HEs to the pipes that go to the cabin.

If all is there, but the guide wire from the handle in the cabin is missing, for a quick fix to get heat just wire the flapper valves to be open. Pull the lever on the flapper and wire it to anything solid under the engine. Having the valves open full time is ok since there's not a lot of heat coming off the HEs in real cold weather.

Some pics of the plumbing under the car to/from the HEs would be helpful.


Any heat helps (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I'll try to do that tomorrow if I can figure out a way to get underneath my car... Will the heat come out of all 4 vents?
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bbrock
post Jan 28 2018, 10:19 AM
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QUOTE(moost @ Jan 28 2018, 01:53 AM) *

Any heat helps (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I'll try to do that tomorrow if I can figure out a way to get underneath my car... Will the heat come out of all 4 vents?


Shouldn't be too hard to reach under to wire the flapper boxes open. The heat can still be directed to desired vents using the dash controls. You just won't get as much volume of air at full heat without the blower.

Also, since your blower is missing, you'll want to make sure that the two j-pipes that run up through the engine shelf are both blocked off. Otherwise, most of the heat will get dumped into the engine bay.
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rhodyguy
post Jan 28 2018, 10:38 AM
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For temp heat you can zip tie the flappers in the open position. Too hot? Mix cooler air with the dash heat controls. You also need to have caps on the J tubes or the hot air pours into the engine compartment.
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98101
post Jan 28 2018, 01:15 PM
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QUOTE(moost @ Jan 28 2018, 12:53 AM) *

if I can figure out a way to get underneath my car

Living in a Seattle condo, this is one of my challenges also.
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