Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

2 Pages V < 1 2  
Reply to this topicStart new topic
> Internal cavity rust treatment, Would/do you use Ospho?
Costa05
post Feb 25 2018, 10:45 PM
Post #21


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 320
Joined: 27-October 16
From: Phoenix, Arizona
Member No.: 20,535
Region Association: Southwest Region



QUOTE(euro911 @ Feb 25 2018, 01:00 PM) *

Milt Becker (Zeke) applied Ospho after patching the hell hole area in the 'BB' and told me to rinse with water and immediately blow the area dry with compressed air the following day. Next was primer and a couple days later the top coat.

I hit the tunnel with the Eastman Internal Frame Coating prior to installing the shift rod & lever, still want to coat the longs at some point. Being on the west coast (CA & AZ), I doubt I'll need anything else (like wax) in the cavities.


I agree. But instead of Ospho I am using this Home Depot stuff which is really affordable. Brush it on or spray bottle even. Several coats over a couple hours. Wire brush where you can reach. Goes black like rust converter. Rinse with water. Immediate compressed air to dry. Heat gun if you are concerned. Hit it with epoxy, acid etch prime, or Por 15 soon. Works for me anyways.
Rich


Attached image(s)
Attached Image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
bbrock
post Feb 25 2018, 11:12 PM
Post #22


914 Guru
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 5,269
Joined: 17-February 17
From: Montana
Member No.: 20,845
Region Association: Rocky Mountains



I'm using the Klean-Strip brand from home depot also. I wound up following this same procedure for the roll bar. Ospho equivalent, rinse, dry, Eastwood frame coating. I'll still follow up the Eastwood with cavity wax in any opening I can access after the welding is done. I agree it isn't necessary, but I've seen firsthand how well the wax works and the Eastwood stuff is still a bit of a question mark IMO. Belts and suspenders.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
IronHillRestorations
post Feb 26 2018, 07:00 AM
Post #23


I. I. R. C.
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 6,716
Joined: 18-March 03
From: West TN
Member No.: 439
Region Association: None



I'd use a one part rust neutralizing epoxy paint before cavity wax, like Eastwood's Corroless
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
bbrock
post Feb 26 2018, 08:33 AM
Post #24


914 Guru
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 5,269
Joined: 17-February 17
From: Montana
Member No.: 20,845
Region Association: Rocky Mountains



QUOTE(Perry Kiehl @ Feb 26 2018, 06:00 AM) *

I'd use a one part rust neutralizing epoxy paint before cavity wax, like Eastwood's Corroless


I'm not familiar with that product. When I search "Corroless" on their web site, their rust encapsulator products show up, which I have used. But I'm not sure how that would get delivered inside the cavities. That's why I've been planning on Eastwood Internal Frame Coating before the cavity wax where possible. But yes, definately some type of rust converter/neutralizer before the cavity wax. Always interested in better products to get the job done.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

2 Pages V < 1 2
Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 5th May 2024 - 01:25 PM