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> G lite, Not going off.
malcolm2
post Feb 3 2018, 02:38 PM
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Took a 3 hour drive to Knoxville today. I watched the volt gauge. Seemed to be irratic. Hung at 11.4. But would jump to 13.5 for a short time them back to. 11.4. G lite was not on during the drive. After a short stop the re start is when the lite stayed on. Guage still at 11.4. I gotta get home.

Auto zone has a voltage reg. Is this a typical symptom of the easy to replace VR?
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mgphoto
post Feb 3 2018, 02:49 PM
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I'm using the autozone vr , working ok.
You need to check the alternator, jumper wire to by pass the vr and measure voltage at the battery.
Google search for the procedure.
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dcheek
post Feb 3 2018, 02:53 PM
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QUOTE(malcolm2 @ Feb 3 2018, 12:38 PM) *

Took a 3 hour drive to Knoxville today. I watched the volt gauge. Seemed to be irratic. Hung at 11.4. But would jump to 13.5 for a short time them back to. 11.4. G lite was not on during the drive. After a short stop the re start is when the lite stayed on. Guage still at 11.4. I gotta get home.

Auto zone has a voltage reg. Is this a typical symptom of the easy to replace VR?


I had the same problem several years ago. I changed the VR but still had the voltage jumping all over the place. I had the alternator rebuilt and it solved the problem.
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Spoke
post Feb 3 2018, 03:46 PM
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QUOTE(mgphoto @ Feb 3 2018, 03:49 PM) *

I'm using the autozone vr , working ok.
You need to check the alternator, jumper wire to by pass the vr and measure voltage at the battery.
Google search for the procedure.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

The schematic for the 914 charging system is below. You can easily test the alternator by pulling the VR and shorting the D+ and DF leads in the VR connector. This will force the alternator to put out maximum power. The voltage at the battery should be 14-16V. If not, the alternator may be bad or the belt is loose.

Keep in mind when doing this test that to get the alternator fully functional you may need to rev the engine to 2k or so.

I too have an autozone VR in my 914. Works great.



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porschetub
post Feb 3 2018, 04:21 PM
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Had this issue once on my 1.8 bus motor and the commutator was filthy and the brushes were worn out.
I used to Bosch rebuilt altenators and found once they get to the above stage they generally need to be dismantled, cleaned and new bearing fitted anyway....cheap enough to do.
The bosch altenators are pretty robust I found most can be repaired to do another turn.
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malcolm2
post Feb 3 2018, 04:32 PM
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Got lucky. G lite is out. Volt gauge is at 13.2 so it is charging some. I am gonna roll an troubleshoot Sunday.
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porschetub
post Feb 3 2018, 04:55 PM
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QUOTE(malcolm2 @ Feb 4 2018, 11:32 AM) *

Got lucky. G lite is out. Volt gauge is at 13.2 so it is charging some. I am gonna roll an troubleshoot Sunday.


Try a load test with all high draw items on,are you testing @ the battery or volt gauge ?...they are normally low in there reading.
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rgalla9146
post Feb 3 2018, 06:07 PM
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Brushes
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malcolm2
post Feb 5 2018, 08:55 AM
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My luck ran out. It seemed to me that my alternator was barely charging. It would generate about 12.3 volts. So we crossed our fingers and started home on the 180 mile trip.

After about an hour I had to turn on the headlights. My volt gauge has a digital readout, so I watched the numbers drop and then drop faster when the load increased. 11.7..... ticked down to 10.8 after another 30 minutes. Another 15 minutes I was under 10 and dropping thru the 9s quickly.

I knew there was a Cracker Barrel 5 miles away in Cookeville. As I pulled in to a parking place the lights and the car died and the meter was reading 9.25. So whatever charging it was doing in Knoxville, it stopped doing it after 1.5 hours.

Was able to get a Cookeville friend to take us on home. I came back Sunday AM with a U-Haul car hauler and got the car home for $61 rental and a 1/2 a tank of gas in my tow vehicle. But now my wife will be leery of our longer trips... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Charged the battery all day and test started it this morning. Tonight, I will verify the dead ALT with the Spoke jumper test.

Need to read up on maybe upgrading to the 100 or 150 amp ALT conversion.
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gothspeed
post Feb 5 2018, 09:53 AM
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What is the part number or which car model for this Autozone regulator? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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JFG
post Feb 5 2018, 12:24 PM
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If a replacement alternator has a built in regulator does this mean the vr on the relay board is removable/obsolete with this alternator fitted?

To carry out the test below, to short the named connections , does this mean insert a cable from D+ and into DF on the relay board?






[quote name='Spoke' date='Feb 3 2018, 09:46 PM' post='2574758']

[/quote]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

The schematic for the 914 charging system is below. You can easily test the alternator by pulling the VR and shorting the D+ and DF leads in the VR connector. This will force the alternator to put out maximum power. The voltage at the battery should be 14-16V. If not, the alternator may be bad or the belt is loose.

Keep in mind when doing this test that to get the alternator fully functional you may need to rev the engine to 2k or so.

I too have an autozone VR in my 914. Works great.
[/quote]
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malcolm2
post Feb 5 2018, 03:04 PM
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QUOTE(gothspeed @ Feb 5 2018, 09:53 AM) *

What is the part number or which car model for this Autozone regulator? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)



It looks different than the OEM one. But several people said it has worked well for them.

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malcolm2
post Feb 5 2018, 03:14 PM
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QUOTE(JFG @ Feb 5 2018, 12:24 PM) *

If a replacement alternator has a built in regulator does this mean the vr on the relay board is removable/obsolete with this alternator fitted?

To carry out the test below, to short the named connections , does this mean insert a cable from D+ and into DF on the relay board?



Yes, If using an ALT with an internal VR, I would say that the VR on the board can be removed. I would wonder if wiring needs to be changed in some way tho. Maybe just connect DF and D+ like in the test below... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

To test, I am supposed to remove the VR and use an alligator clip on D+ wired to the 2nd clip and placed on DF. These should be the female connectors that the VR plugs into on the board.

This will take the "regulating" function of the regulator out of the picture. And a good operating ALT should spin up a full voltage to the battery. VOM on + and - of the battery reading >16 volts would tell me that the ALT is good.

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JFG
post Feb 5 2018, 03:38 PM
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Thanks for the simple answer, just what I needed.



QUOTE(malcolm2 @ Feb 5 2018, 09:14 PM) *

quote name='JFG' post='2575379' date='Feb 5 2018, 12:24 PM']

Yes, If using an ALT with an internal VR, I would say that the VR on the board can be removed. I would wonder if wiring needs to be changed in some way tho. Maybe just connect DF and D+ like in the test below... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

To test, I am supposed to remove the VR and use an alligator clip on D+ wired to the 2nd clip and placed on DF. These should be the female connectors that the VR plugs into on the board.

This will take the "regulating" function of the regulator out of the picture. And a good operating ALT should spin up a full voltage to the battery. VOM on + and - of the battery reading >16 volts would tell me that the ALT is good.

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malcolm2
post Feb 5 2018, 04:34 PM
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Test results.:

EDIT>>>> ALT belt is installed and properly tensioned.

VR pulled out
Jumper in place of VR
VOM on the battery 12.67v
Key on
G Lite on
Car starts
A few engine revs
G Lite still on
VOM = 12.13 idle and 3000 rpm
Headlights, fresh air fan, hazzards,wipers all on
VOM = 11.7 idle

Bad ALT, right?
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worn
post Feb 5 2018, 05:17 PM
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QUOTE(malcolm2 @ Feb 5 2018, 02:34 PM) *

Test results.:
VR pulled out
Jumper in place of VR
VOM on the battery 12.67v
Key on
G Lite on
Car starts
A few engine revs
G Lite still on
VOM = 12.13 idle and 3000 rpm
Headlights, fresh air fan, hazzards,wipers all on
VOM = 11.7 idle

Bad ALT, right?

I would say yes. Too bad, cause they aren’t fun to replace. Not horrible, but the tins make it harder than with most cars.
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Spoke
post Feb 5 2018, 05:22 PM
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QUOTE(worn @ Feb 5 2018, 06:17 PM) *

QUOTE(malcolm2 @ Feb 5 2018, 02:34 PM) *

Test results.:
VR pulled out
Jumper in place of VR
VOM on the battery 12.67v
Key on
G Lite on
Car starts
A few engine revs
G Lite still on
VOM = 12.13 idle and 3000 rpm
Headlights, fresh air fan, hazzards,wipers all on
VOM = 11.7 idle

Bad ALT, right?

I would say yes. Too bad, cause they aren’t fun to replace. Not horrible, but the tins make it harder than with most cars.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

In your test the only item in the charging system is the alternator. I assume you've checked the belt to make sure it's tight. Also sounds like you revved the engine a couple of times to get the alternator started.
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malcolm2
post Feb 5 2018, 05:32 PM
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I have had this alternator off 2 times in the last 40k miles. I will not be rebuilding it. I will probably take it apart and see if there is anything obvious. Last time the pulley and shaft were moving in and out. Cause alot of clanking. The rebuilder did that repair for free and said he would not rebuild it again.

You are correct tho. It is one GIANT PITA. Having a 75 requires me to remove the exhaust on that side. Otherwise the unit will not come out. I can loosen it, but it won't come out.

Hence my thoughts of a new style Higher Amp upgrade. So I hope to get more miles out of a good high quality, high tech ALT.

Belt seems tight. I would guess 1/2 to 1" flex.

Spoke, BTW I got your relay today. Installed it and it WORKS LIKE DESIGNED. Thanks. Did you say you could modify the Werhle brand that won't blink with low load?
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Spoke
post Feb 6 2018, 07:06 AM
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QUOTE(malcolm2 @ Feb 5 2018, 06:32 PM) *

Did you say you could modify the Werhle brand that won't blink with low load?


I haven't done it but it should be possible. Most flashers are designed to sense the bulb current with a resistor. This is why they hyperflash when the current is lower when one bulb is out. LED-compatible flashers have this same resistor either shorted out or much higher resistance to sense really low currents. With the low cost of EP26 ($12-$16) not sure if it's worth digging into the Werhle flasher.
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JFG
post Feb 6 2018, 02:22 PM
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Beware conducting this test. I took 45 - 60 seconds before fire started in the alternator wiring loom.

My readings were as follows


Idle without any drain
Rev 2000 18.2v
Idle 16.7 v

Lights on
idle 14.58v
rev 2000 17.5v

Brake light on with lights
Idle 14.09v
rev 2000 16.9v

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