Teen 914 build, My first car ever at 18, and what im attempting to complete |
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Teen 914 build, My first car ever at 18, and what im attempting to complete |
camgraves3113 |
Feb 10 2018, 12:40 AM
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#1
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Graves31 Group: Members Posts: 60 Joined: 8-January 18 From: canton CT Member No.: 21,773 Region Association: None |
I purchased two 73 914’s, for 3200 total. Great price, i believe but both cars are beautiful fust buckets. Tons of laborious work ahead. Here’s original photos from about 2 months ago (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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camgraves3113 |
Mar 5 2018, 10:11 PM
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#2
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Graves31 Group: Members Posts: 60 Joined: 8-January 18 From: canton CT Member No.: 21,773 Region Association: None |
Tried to drop the engine and tranny out today... but the engine mounting bar end bolts (at either ends) were just spinning the nut and the bult, therefore i cannot remove it. It is in such an odd place that i also cannot reach the nut to keep it stable and not turn with the bolt. Any ideas?
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superJoy |
Mar 6 2018, 09:18 AM
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#3
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 3 Joined: 14-January 18 From: Detroit Member No.: 21,798 Region Association: None |
Tried to drop the engine and tranny out today... but the engine mounting bar end bolts (at either ends) were just spinning the nut and the bult, therefore i cannot remove it. It is in such an odd place that i also cannot reach the nut to keep it stable and not turn with the bolt. Any ideas? I just went through this problem with the engine carrier bolts the last couple weekends on mine. One YouTube video mentioned wedging something up between the nut and the sides of the bracket it sits in -- like a bolt or small piece of metal. I had no success with this. I eventually got a deep well half inch drive socket/ratchet on the nut, but had a hell of a time getting my arm up there to turn it. Nevertheless, the nut was so rusted on that there was no hope for disassembly. Maybe you will be more lucky. Definitely hose things down with a penetrating oil. Consider heat but be careful with it. My propane torch wouldn't light well, too cold in my unheated garage, so I didn't use it to any great effect. Due to the condition of my nut/bolt, having exhausted all other possibilities, I cut the head off the bolt with a hacksaw. I cut most of the way through, then knocked it off the rest of the way with a chisel/hammer. Then, I was able to turn the nut-side, spinning the bolt in the hole, and gradually working it out from above. I also used a punch/hammer to help drive it out from below. But this doesn't work so well --- you may mushroom the bolt and you're even more screwed. Anyway, I got the passenger side bolt out this way. Obviously there is a risk of collateral damage when you cut things. I would only do this as a last resort. I still haven't gotten the driver's side to come apart. The bolt is really frozen in there. It may be bent too. Ended up undoing the engine mount nuts, lifting the engine up, and swinging the engine carrier bar forward so I could get the engine out. Now that the engine is out, I have a lot more room to work with whenever I feel up to removing the driver's side bolt. If you are doing metal-on-metal hammering, wear safety goggles and hearing protection. I wish I was smarter with this stuff, especially the latter, when I first got started wrenching. |
camgraves3113 |
Mar 6 2018, 02:51 PM
Post
#4
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Graves31 Group: Members Posts: 60 Joined: 8-January 18 From: canton CT Member No.: 21,773 Region Association: None |
Tried to drop the engine and tranny out today... but the engine mounting bar end bolts (at either ends) were just spinning the nut and the bult, therefore i cannot remove it. It is in such an odd place that i also cannot reach the nut to keep it stable and not turn with the bolt. Any ideas? I just went through this problem with the engine carrier bolts the last couple weekends on mine. One YouTube video mentioned wedging something up between the nut and the sides of the bracket it sits in -- like a bolt or small piece of metal. I had no success with this. I eventually got a deep well half inch drive socket/ratchet on the nut, but had a hell of a time getting my arm up there to turn it. Nevertheless, the nut was so rusted on that there was no hope for disassembly. Maybe you will be more lucky. Definitely hose things down with a penetrating oil. Consider heat but be careful with it. My propane torch wouldn't light well, too cold in my unheated garage, so I didn't use it to any great effect. Due to the condition of my nut/bolt, having exhausted all other possibilities, I cut the head off the bolt with a hacksaw. I cut most of the way through, then knocked it off the rest of the way with a chisel/hammer. Then, I was able to turn the nut-side, spinning the bolt in the hole, and gradually working it out from above. I also used a punch/hammer to help drive it out from below. But this doesn't work so well --- you may mushroom the bolt and you're even more screwed. Anyway, I got the passenger side bolt out this way. Obviously there is a risk of collateral damage when you cut things. I would only do this as a last resort. I still haven't gotten the driver's side to come apart. The bolt is really frozen in there. It may be bent too. Ended up undoing the engine mount nuts, lifting the engine up, and swinging the engine carrier bar forward so I could get the engine out. Now that the engine is out, I have a lot more room to work with whenever I feel up to removing the driver's side bolt. If you are doing metal-on-metal hammering, wear safety goggles and hearing protection. I wish I was smarter with this stuff, especially the latter, when I first got started wrenching. Thank you so much!!!! I cant wait to get home and be able to try these techniques (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Your help is really appreciated, i can not thank you enough |
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