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> Teen 914 build, My first car ever at 18, and what im attempting to complete
stownsen914
post Feb 13 2018, 08:59 AM
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Awesome project! My first car was a 914 too. My dad and I rebuilt it back in the 1980s with some help from at least one other regular on this forum. Arguably an easier project back then as the cars were much younger. You'll have a kickass car once you're done!

Scott
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camgraves3113
post Feb 22 2018, 12:13 PM
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Sorry everyone for my inactivity!
Someone stole my phone!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)
But now i have gotten a new one and will continue this thread
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camgraves3113
post Mar 5 2018, 10:11 PM
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Tried to drop the engine and tranny out today... but the engine mounting bar end bolts (at either ends) were just spinning the nut and the bult, therefore i cannot remove it. It is in such an odd place that i also cannot reach the nut to keep it stable and not turn with the bolt. Any ideas?


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camgraves3113
post Mar 5 2018, 10:12 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) so much work to be done


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superJoy
post Mar 6 2018, 09:18 AM
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QUOTE(camgraves3113 @ Mar 5 2018, 11:11 PM) *

Tried to drop the engine and tranny out today... but the engine mounting bar end bolts (at either ends) were just spinning the nut and the bult, therefore i cannot remove it. It is in such an odd place that i also cannot reach the nut to keep it stable and not turn with the bolt. Any ideas?

I just went through this problem with the engine carrier bolts the last couple weekends on mine. One YouTube video mentioned wedging something up between the nut and the sides of the bracket it sits in -- like a bolt or small piece of metal. I had no success with this. I eventually got a deep well half inch drive socket/ratchet on the nut, but had a hell of a time getting my arm up there to turn it. Nevertheless, the nut was so rusted on that there was no hope for disassembly. Maybe you will be more lucky. Definitely hose things down with a penetrating oil. Consider heat but be careful with it. My propane torch wouldn't light well, too cold in my unheated garage, so I didn't use it to any great effect.

Due to the condition of my nut/bolt, having exhausted all other possibilities, I cut the head off the bolt with a hacksaw. I cut most of the way through, then knocked it off the rest of the way with a chisel/hammer. Then, I was able to turn the nut-side, spinning the bolt in the hole, and gradually working it out from above. I also used a punch/hammer to help drive it out from below. But this doesn't work so well --- you may mushroom the bolt and you're even more screwed. Anyway, I got the passenger side bolt out this way. Obviously there is a risk of collateral damage when you cut things. I would only do this as a last resort.

I still haven't gotten the driver's side to come apart. The bolt is really frozen in there. It may be bent too. Ended up undoing the engine mount nuts, lifting the engine up, and swinging the engine carrier bar forward so I could get the engine out. Now that the engine is out, I have a lot more room to work with whenever I feel up to removing the driver's side bolt.

If you are doing metal-on-metal hammering, wear safety goggles and hearing protection. I wish I was smarter with this stuff, especially the latter, when I first got started wrenching.
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Mikey914
post Mar 6 2018, 11:44 AM
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Welcome to 914 world. Both of my boys had a 914 for their 1st car. It will teach you many things. Mostly patience.
It is a rewarding project. Just like the old saying how do you eat an elephant - one bite at a time. You have lots to do, and will be trying at times. Just remember you have found one of the best resources - 914world. There are many that can lend advice, and have done what you are doing.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)
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camgraves3113
post Mar 6 2018, 02:51 PM
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QUOTE(superJoy @ Mar 6 2018, 10:18 AM) *

QUOTE(camgraves3113 @ Mar 5 2018, 11:11 PM) *

Tried to drop the engine and tranny out today... but the engine mounting bar end bolts (at either ends) were just spinning the nut and the bult, therefore i cannot remove it. It is in such an odd place that i also cannot reach the nut to keep it stable and not turn with the bolt. Any ideas?

I just went through this problem with the engine carrier bolts the last couple weekends on mine. One YouTube video mentioned wedging something up between the nut and the sides of the bracket it sits in -- like a bolt or small piece of metal. I had no success with this. I eventually got a deep well half inch drive socket/ratchet on the nut, but had a hell of a time getting my arm up there to turn it. Nevertheless, the nut was so rusted on that there was no hope for disassembly. Maybe you will be more lucky. Definitely hose things down with a penetrating oil. Consider heat but be careful with it. My propane torch wouldn't light well, too cold in my unheated garage, so I didn't use it to any great effect.

Due to the condition of my nut/bolt, having exhausted all other possibilities, I cut the head off the bolt with a hacksaw. I cut most of the way through, then knocked it off the rest of the way with a chisel/hammer. Then, I was able to turn the nut-side, spinning the bolt in the hole, and gradually working it out from above. I also used a punch/hammer to help drive it out from below. But this doesn't work so well --- you may mushroom the bolt and you're even more screwed. Anyway, I got the passenger side bolt out this way. Obviously there is a risk of collateral damage when you cut things. I would only do this as a last resort.

I still haven't gotten the driver's side to come apart. The bolt is really frozen in there. It may be bent too. Ended up undoing the engine mount nuts, lifting the engine up, and swinging the engine carrier bar forward so I could get the engine out. Now that the engine is out, I have a lot more room to work with whenever I feel up to removing the driver's side bolt.

If you are doing metal-on-metal hammering, wear safety goggles and hearing protection. I wish I was smarter with this stuff, especially the latter, when I first got started wrenching.


Thank you so much!!!! I cant wait to get home and be able to try these techniques (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Your help is really appreciated, i can not thank you enough
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jd74914
post Mar 6 2018, 03:24 PM
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I believe it's possible to stick an open ended wrench up there and hold onto the top nut. You definitely should be able to get something up there reaching from the front side (at the moment I can't remember what I used last time). That said, I've found those bolts seized before and just cut the heads off with an angle grinder and cutting disc. If you do that just make sure you have some jack stands or other supports under the engine mount bar and keep your body out of the way.
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mobymutt
post Mar 6 2018, 03:54 PM
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QUOTE(jd74914 @ Mar 6 2018, 04:24 PM) *

I believe it's possible to stick an open ended wrench up there and hold onto the top nut.


That's all I did. But mine wasn't seized at all.
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Dave_Darling
post Mar 6 2018, 06:09 PM
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I used two ratchets and sockets, one on the nut on top and one on the bolt on the bottom. The angle was a bit odd, but not too awful.

--DD
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camgraves3113
post Mar 6 2018, 08:36 PM
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THANK you everyone, me and my dad were able to drop it out without even cutting nor drilling any bolt whatsoever. So i had the car up on 1 cinderblock high, and basically, using two jacks on either side of the engine mounting large bracket. Bye doing this, there was no down pressure on the bar which was ultimately holding the nut in the deepest part of the oddly located and shaped (cover?)-holding the nut and bolt on either sides. BECAUSE of this, i was finally able to get my hand and a wrench on the nut, and a socket on the bolt.

Also bye jacking the bar, with two jacks close to the middle (leaving the bolt and nut accessible) basically, only the top of the bolt is threaded, so i was able to push up on the bolt, and push it in farther, allowing the nut to be raised and provide easy access. Sorry if i am hard to understand, i am surely not majoring in english!! Haha

All in all, i am very thankful for the 914 community and support, as i was able to make huge progress today. Now i get to work with the motor and get the baby cleaned out (it is a bored out 1.7L to a 2litre) and looking and sounding good. In the next few posts i am going to provide images to respresent my directions ^ and hopefully make this adventure more informative for whomever reads this thread (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


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camgraves3113
post Mar 6 2018, 08:37 PM
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2


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camgraves3113
post Mar 6 2018, 08:38 PM
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3 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


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camgraves3113
post Mar 6 2018, 08:38 PM
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And 4 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)


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jd74914
post Mar 7 2018, 09:16 AM
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Awesome! Looking good Cam. Much cleaner than the first time I pulled my '74 motor. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Planning on converting to 5-lug (looking at the 911 hubs in the background)?
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camgraves3113
post Mar 7 2018, 12:39 PM
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QUOTE(jd74914 @ Mar 7 2018, 10:16 AM) *

Awesome! Looking good Cam. Much cleaner than the first time I pulled my '74 motor. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Planning on converting to 5-lug (looking at the 911 hubs in the background)?


Haha yes you know it! And thank you, im excited to finally get to the nitty gritty and try to get the most powerful 4cyl as i can
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Dave_Darling
post Mar 7 2018, 01:31 PM
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QUOTE(camgraves3113 @ Mar 6 2018, 06:36 PM) *
(it is a bored out 1.7L to a 2litre)


That is commonly referred to as a "1.9" or a "1911" (which is the displacement in CC of a 96mm bore and the stock 66mm stroke).

A 2.0 motor is 94mm bore X 71mm stroke, for 1971cc displacement. Calling your 1911 a "2 liter" is a bit of a misrepresentation.

--DD
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camgraves3113
post Mar 7 2018, 01:57 PM
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QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Mar 7 2018, 02:31 PM) *

QUOTE(camgraves3113 @ Mar 6 2018, 06:36 PM) *
(it is a bored out 1.7L to a 2litre)


That is commonly referred to as a "1.9" or a "1911" (which is the displacement in CC of a 96mm bore and the stock 66mm stroke).

A 2.0 motor is 94mm bore X 71mm stroke, for 1971cc displacement. Calling your 1911 a "2 liter" is a bit of a misrepresentation.

--DD


Very interesting, as i will admit i at this point i am very ill informed regarding engine specifications, compression rates, and ect. Thank you for pointing this out I appreciate any info you have to offer
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camgraves3113
post Mar 8 2018, 03:05 PM
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Gosh this looks AND smells horrible! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
The engine tin and especially screws are so corroded and stuck i can barely move ANY of them! Yes i used tons of liquid wrench, and gave it time to sit. Any ideas? Thanks!!


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camgraves3113
post Mar 8 2018, 03:06 PM
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I definitely have to get my tetanus shot now


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