SS Exhasut Nut Update, Installed and Took Pictures Options

[914Sixer]

It warmed up enough today to go the the warehouse and try these out. I like the way they fit up and that the heads are 12mm. Factory nut are 13mm head. I was able to install them using a 12mm wobbel socket. The SS nut covers the entire flange of the SS heat exchangers.

[Optimusglen]

I'd be very concerned about galling of the threads, better hope you never have to remove those unless you went nuts with anti seize. Even if you did, I'd be a little worried.

[UROpartsman]

I'd be very concerned about galling of the threads, better hope you never have to remove those unless you went nuts with anti seize. Even if you did, I'd be a little worried.

^X2. Also, check and see if common stainless studs are strong enough to handle the thermal expansion and contraction, they're just a bit stronger than grade 2 hardware, which is why you never see stainless used for suspension parts.

Thermal properties are another consideration, will stainless nuts on stainless studs stay tight when heat cycled? Stainless transmits heat very poorly, which is why it warps so bad when it's welded (unless done properly by a knowledgeable welder) and why it burns up drill bits (the heat remains at the point of the drill bit and anneals its cutting edges). If you need a metal that acts as an insulator (such as heat shields), stainless is a great choice.

[914_teener]

I'd be very concerned about galling of the threads, better hope you never have to remove those unless you went nuts with anti seize. Even if you did, I'd be a little worried.

^X2. Also, check and see if common stainless studs are strong enough to handle the thermal expansion and contraction, they're just a bit stronger than grade 2 hardware, which is why you never see stainless used for suspension parts.

Thermal properties are another consideration, will stainless nuts on stainless studs stay tight when heat cycled? Stainless transmits heat very poorly, which is why it warps so bad when it's welded (unless done properly by a knowledgeable welder) and why it burns up drill bits (the heat remains at the point of the drill bit and anneals its cutting edges). If you need a metal that acts as an insulator (such as heat shields), stainless is a great choice.

Couple of things here:

When you drill stainless you are work hardening the metal. That is why it burns out bits. Nothing to due with temperature. It has tondo with the steel's physical properties. Cutting speed and cutting head angle are critcal to not overwork the metal as it is being cut. What is happening is that the carbon grains are parcipitating out towards the edges of the grain bounderies. Diamonds are pure carbon and we all know how friggen hard those are.

When welding and due to the cyrstaline nature of metals is unique to the alloy. As the metal cools and depending on the rate of cooling this adds "induced" stress. Again depending on the alloy stainless has a tendency to stress and cool at different rates intergranulary which causes the warping. This can be relieved by uniformly heating or mechanicaly. Gotta be careful about mechanicaly relieving stainless.....see comment above...you can change its mechanical properties.

What I remember from my strength of materials stuff and from some experience. Ethan may know more he is the ME.

[UROpartsman]

When you drill stainless you are work hardening the metal. That is why it burns out bits. Nothing to due with temperature. It has tondo with the steel's physical properties. Cutting speed and cutting head angle are critcal to not overwork the metal as it is being cut. What is happening is that the carbon grains are parcipitating out towards the edges of the grain bounderies.

Interesting. If that's the case, why does a coolant feed make it so much easier to drill or mill stainless? The coolant bath doesn't change the properties of either the drill or the steel. If you don't have a coolant feed, getting the cutting speed perfect makes a world of difference, assumed (as a DIY guy but not an engineer) it was because the chip ribbon was taking a lot of heat with it. Some drill geek material.