Clutch/Tranny Question Options

[-P-]

Yesterday I got the flywheel turned and my clutch parts came in. I reinstalled the tranny on the studs holding it to the engine. I checked the play on the clutch fork. It probably has an inch + of travel. And only half an inch of travel when its starts putting pressure on the pressure play before hitting the back of the tranny

My questions are.
Would turning the flywheel too much cause this?
How do I get that ball out where the fork pivots on. The nut is sunk below the lip and i cant get a wrench or socket on it.
If I do manage to get that out, how much can I shim it? It seems that putting too much on would cause the throwout bearing to push too far forward off the input shaft.

Before the new clutch and pressure plate it seemed to synch of perfect.

Stumped....

[JWest]

Turning the flywheel does cause this.

Did you replace the plastic ball cup in the throwout arm?

I think you need a thin wall deep 14mm to get that ball out. Grind down a socket if needed.

As far ar the amount to shim, I think that as long as there is a little play before the bearing touches the clutch you will be OK.

[-P-]

Turning the flywheel does cause this.

Did you replace the plastic ball cup in the throwout arm?

I think you need a thin wall deep 14mm to get that ball out.  Grind down a socket if needed.

As far ar the amount to shim, I think that as long as there is a little play before the bearing touches the clutch you will be OK.

Thanks James. I guess I will order a new flywheel then and work on getting that ball out to shim it if neccssary. I did replace the ball cup on the arm.

That is unless you have one you want to sell locally?

[Brad Roberts]

Find out what material has been removed from your flywheel and place a "shim" aka "washer" behind that pivot ball that closely matches the thickness removed from the flywheel. Most machine shops wont remove too much material if they know its out of the wear dimensions.


B

[MarkV]

IIRC you have to shim the ball the same amount that was cut from the flywheel. You don't need to replace the flywheel. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

[-P-]

IIRC you have to shim the ball the same amount that was cut from the flywheel. You don't need to replace the flywheel. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

Thats what I would think. They didnt remove too much based on my eye, but the difference in the play of the fork is severe. I jsut dont see how shimming this is going to solve the amount of travel I have now.

Here is a crude picture of what I have. When the fork is pulled back and starts to put pressure on the plate it only has 1/2 an inch. Before the new clutch kit and pressure plate and turned flywheel is was the opposite. no more than 1/2 an inch.

[Lawrence]

The measurements are all going to change a little bit. You've replaced worn and tired parts (clutch disk, pressure plate, TO bearing, etc), with fresh new parts. You've milled the flywheel a bit.

Shim the ball up the width of how much was taken off the flywheel, and you should be okay.

The new ball cup bushing is a good idea, too.

-Rusty

[JWest]

The shim (pivot point) is pretty far up the arm - a little shim wil go a long way down at the cable end of the fork.

[airsix]

Like James said... A little shim goes a long way. I just did mine, and actually had a hard time getting a washer that was thin enough. Without a shim washer the arm was too far back, but a standard thickness washer (probably about 1.5mm) was way too thick and moved the pivot arm way too far forward. I had to get a really thin washer to possition the arm in the proper location.

Regarding the pivot ball... Have you tried getting it out yet? Mine was not very tight and I got it out just using the tips of an open-end wrench angled into the hole. It was only slightly more than finger tight.

-Ben M.

[Demick]

Put a paper towel or rag around the ball to protect it, and grab and twist it out with a pair of pliers. Most are loose enough that it will come right out.

Demick

[-P-]

I put a pair of vice grips on there and it still wouldnt budge. Dont worry it didnt score the ball (super strong metal on that thing). The 14mm deep socket i had jsut almost fit. the nut is well into the cavity so I need to use a socket. I'll grab a thinwall 14mm or grind mine down tonight and try.

Thanks for all the input. I'm so close to be able to actually drive the car for the 1st time rather than putt around the neighborhood slowly in 1st and second gear.

[-P-]

Man that was a pain. The ball/bolt finally came out after an hr of grinding down my 14mm deep well. I placed a thin washer behind and torqued it down lightly. everything is operating smoothly. Tommorrow I will remount the tranny and tighten a few of the bolts on the bell housing and see if it has improved.


Thanks guys!!!