Heavy-Duty Control Arm Bushing Kit 901 341 421 02 for Porsche 911, 912, 914, 930 Options

[UROpartsman]

More than 9,000 Porsche sports cars have been happily repaired with the URO Control Arm Bushing Kit over the last ten years! To celebrate and offer enthusiasts another option, URO spent the last year developing a performance bushing kit for those willing to trade some ride comfort for more responsive handling. The rubber used for these "heavy-duty" bushings is 27% more firm than OEM durometer bushings to minimize deflection, and being natural rubber URO's HD bushings are highly resistant to cold flow deformation.

MSRP for URO's HD Control Arm Bushing Kit is $34.95 and it's available from Porsche specialists such as Sierra Madre Collection in Southern California and Auto Atlanta in Marietta, GA.
http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-Control...4142102KHD.html

If you have any questions about these items or any other URO part, feel free to contact us at 800-290-5555 or "sales @ uroparts . com" (remove spaces).

[bdstone914]

What makes them heavy duty ?
Or did you make them harder to replace the ones you have been selling that are way too soft?
What is the durometer hardness and what is the control range for that harness ?

Struggled with the last set for two hours before I trashed them.
Also found that of the two sets I had the rubber was a different hardness to the feel.
Are these the same ones you have been selling of which I have installed 5 sets only to realize the rubber is way to soft and easily distorts during installation ?
Threw them away and got a set of 914 Rubber bushings made to the correct durometer hardness.

Free Bump

[UROpartsman]

Happy to explain, thanks for asking. Control arm bushings really need to be pre-heated in boiling water and quickly installed while hot with liquid soap as a lubricant.

Here's an old installation video:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45IvTOZxtBE


If you need additional help with installation, I could contact a few professional technicians and ask them if they have any tips they could share.

Our standard bushings have the same durometer as OEM, and our "HD" version bushings have a 27% higher durometer (on the Shore A scale) than OEM. This is easy (though expensive) for anyone to verify for themselves; just purchase a new OEM control arm from Porsche and compare the bushing durometer to ours and others on the market. We have two OEM control arms (one new and one NOS) in our library, which were used when designing our bushings.

We don't currently publish the durometer of our bushings because one of our competitors claims that his new bushings are the same durometer as OEM, but clearly this competitor hasn't actually checked the durometer of a new OEM bushing properly, and it's rather ironic. (He probably checked an old, age-hardened OE bushing.) It's also humorous that his bushings appear to have the exact same improved shape as our bushings (which we've been selling for a decade), almost as if URO bushings were used to create his injection mold.

Naturally it's fine for anyone to sell bushings of any durometer they want, it's a free country. With URO, Porsche enthusiasts have a choice between OEM durometer and 27% more firm than OEM, and can decide which is best for them. We sell about 1,000 sets of our standard bushings to professional repair and restoration shops every year, and expect these new HD bushings to be just as popular.

[Mblizzard]

Happy to explain, thanks for asking. Control arm bushings really need to be pre-heated in boiling water and quickly installed while hot with liquid soap as a lubricant.

Here's an old installation video:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45IvTOZxtBE


If you need additional help with installation, I could contact a few professional technicians and ask them if they have any tips they could share.

Our standard bushings have the same durometer as OEM, and our "HD" version bushings have a 27% higher durometer than OEM. This is easy (though expensive) for anyone to verify for themselves; just purchase a new OEM control arm from Porsche and compare the bushing durometer to ours and others on the market. We have two OEM control arms (one new and one NOS) in our library, which were used when designing our bushings.

We don't currently publish the durometer of our bushings because one of our competitors claims that his new bushings are the same durometer as OEM, but clearly this competitor hasn't actually checked the durometer of a new OEM bushing properly, and it's rather ironic. (He probably checked a very old, age-hardened OE bushing.) It's also humorous that his bushings appear to have the exact same improved shape as our bushings (which we've been selling for a decade), almost as if URO bushings were used to create his injection mold.

Naturally it's fine for anyone to sell bushings of any durometer they want, it's a free country. With URO, Porsche enthusiasts have a choice between OEM durometer and 27% more firm than OEM, and can decide which is best for them. We sell about 1,000 sets of our standard bushings to professional repair and restoration shops every year, and expect these new HD bushings to be just as popular.

OK so just to understand is this Shore OO, Shore A, or Shore D scale?

27% improvement sounds good but if you are at a Shore A 70 that 27% cuts out a lot of flexibility that may not be worth the increased wear resistance.

[Mblizzard]

Happy to explain, thanks for asking. Control arm bushings really need to be pre-heated in boiling water and quickly installed while hot with liquid soap as a lubricant.

Here's an old installation video:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45IvTOZxtBE


If you need additional help with installation, I could contact a few professional technicians and ask them if they have any tips they could share.

Our standard bushings have the same durometer as OEM, and our "HD" version bushings have a 27% higher durometer than OEM. This is easy (though expensive) for anyone to verify for themselves; just purchase a new OEM control arm from Porsche and compare the bushing durometer to ours and others on the market. We have two OEM control arms (one new and one NOS) in our library, which were used when designing our bushings.

We don't currently publish the durometer of our bushings because one of our competitors claims that his new bushings are the same durometer as OEM, but clearly this competitor hasn't actually checked the durometer of a new OEM bushing properly, and it's rather ironic. (He probably checked a very old, age-hardened OE bushing.) It's also humorous that his bushings appear to have the exact same improved shape as our bushings (which we've been selling for a decade), almost as if URO bushings were used to create his injection mold.

Naturally it's fine for anyone to sell bushings of any durometer they want, it's a free country. With URO, Porsche enthusiasts have a choice between OEM durometer and 27% more firm than OEM, and can decide which is best for them. We sell about 1,000 sets of our standard bushings to professional repair and restoration shops every year, and expect these new HD bushings to be just as popular.

Understand this is an old video but if you are going to show someone pushing in a 180 to 200 F item with their bare hands then you may want to add a comment stating that the guys hands are actually made of asbestos. Typically a burn would develop with less than a second of exposure to something that is 160 °F.

Of course he may be tougher than the rest of us.

[UROpartsman]

OK so just to understand is this Shore OO, Shore A, or Shore D scale? 27% improvement sounds good but if you are at a Shore A 70 that 27% cuts out a lot of flexibility that may not be worth the increased wear resistance.

That's correct Mblizzard, Shore A is probably the most appropriate scale for these rubber bushings. Interesting that you say Shore A 70 might be too firm, our competitor claims OEM bushings are much higher than 70.

Understand this is an old video but if you are going to show someone pushing in a 180 to 200 F item with their bare hands then you may want to add a comment stating that the guys hands are actually made of asbestos. Typically a burn would develop with less than a second of exposure to something that is 160 °F.

Lol, thought that exact same thing watching it this morning. We should probably redo that old video one of these days, but there's a long list of new products that also need videos, so it could be a while. We'll add a note in the description though, thanks for the suggestion.

[Mblizzard]

OK so just to understand is this Shore OO, Shore A, or Shore D scale? 27% improvement sounds good but if you are at a Shore A 70 that 27% cuts out a lot of flexibility that may not be worth the increased wear resistance.

That's correct Mblizzard, Shore A is probably the most appropriate scale for these rubber bushings. Interesting that you say Shore A 70 might be too firm, our competitor claims OEM bushings are much higher than 70.

Understand this is an old video but if you are going to show someone pushing in a 180 to 200 F item with their bare hands then you may want to add a comment stating that the guys hands are actually made of asbestos. Typically a burn would develop with less than a second of exposure to something that is 160 °F.

Lol, thought that exact same thing watching it this morning. We should probably redo that old video one of these days, but there's a long list of new products that also need videos, so it could be a while. We'll add a note in the description though, thanks for the suggestion.

Glad you thought the burn was funny because that was the intent!

I have no insight on the scale and randomly picked a number for comparison only.

From my limited mechanics of materials choosing the hardness of the rubber is a trade off and compromise of too soft and they creep out, fail too soon, and do not support the suspension components as needed. Too hard they last but they don't play well with the other components.

[UROpartsman]

From my limited mechanics of materials choosing the hardness of the rubber is a trade off and compromise of too soft and they creep out, fail too soon, and do not support the suspension components as needed. Too hard they last but they don't play well with the other components.

Exactly right, or the bushings negatively affect ride comfort if too hard. In a sports car like the 914, it's up to the individual owner to decide where to strike the balance between comfort and a firm "racing" feel. There's no right or wrong answer, just personal preference.