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> Bought a 2+L Mystery Engine, what's would you do next .
Dougster
post Apr 2 2018, 04:49 PM
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I picked up a complete 2.0+ engine today, came with all sheetmetal, alt, starter, fan, twin Italian 40 IDF carbs, etc. The seller got it second hand from a disabled N. Texas guy who'd crashed his 'real nice orange 914 with spoilers'...he remembered that it was built in Ft. Worth TX and said that it was over-bored but could not remember the details - said "it was built to a 2 point something" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) . Said the PO seemed honest and assured him that it was a fast, strong engine. It has a GA engine number. He was asking $700 for everything and I figured at the very least it was a descent price for a 2.0L + dual 40IDF webbers, so I bought it. I've asked some locals if they knew anything about it and none did.

Whats the general concensus, just do a leak down test, compression test and use it if within spec... or break it down and start taking measurement?

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Edward Blume
post Apr 2 2018, 05:02 PM
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QUOTE(Dougster @ Apr 2 2018, 03:49 PM) *

I picked up a complete 2.0+ engine today, came with all sheetmetal, alt, starter, fan, twin Italian 40 IDF carbs, etc. The seller got it second hand from a disabled N. Texas guy who'd crashed his 'real nice orange 914 with spoilers'...he remembered that it was built in Ft. Worth TX and said that it was over-bored but could not remember the details - said "it was built to a 2 point something" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) . Said the PO seemed honest and assured him that it was a fast, strong engine. It has a GA engine number. He was asking $700 for everything and I figured at the very least it was a descent price for a 2.0L + dual 40IDF webbers, so I bought it. I've asked some locals if they knew anything about it and none did.

Whats the general concensus, just do a leak down test, compression test and use it if within spec... or break it down and start taking measurement?


What a good buy!

Build a test stand and run it, or pop in after a full service on the valves, fuel lines, belt, etc, might not be a bad idea to test the alt while its out.

It's not hard to take a motor in and out.
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Boomingbeetle
post Apr 2 2018, 05:07 PM
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See if she runs! Personally I'd want to pull a head and measure bore and stroke, that would definitely help if you're looking to sell it (in or out of a car). But you will likely be doing some teardown anyway if it doesn't run... Or you can connect a graduated cylinder to a compression tester hose, fill the motor cylinder with oil, turn it by hand and measure displacement of the motor cylinder on the graduated cylinder gauge. multiply x4 and you've got a very close estimate of displacement
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Dougster
post Apr 2 2018, 06:18 PM
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Just out of curiosity what's the largest /4 configuration that would use a pair of 40 IDF webbers and not need bigger ?
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Vacca Rabite
post Apr 2 2018, 06:21 PM
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On 40s? maybe a 2300 or there abouts. But I'm guessing at a 2056 since that keeps the stock crank.

Zach
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rgalla9146
post Apr 2 2018, 06:29 PM
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QUOTE(Boomingbeetle @ Apr 2 2018, 07:07 PM) *

See if she runs! Personally I'd want to pull a head and measure bore and stroke, that would definitely help if you're looking to sell it (in or out of a car). But you will likely be doing some teardown anyway if it doesn't run... Or you can connect a graduated cylinder to a compression tester hose, fill the motor cylinder with oil, turn it by hand and measure displacement of the motor cylinder on the graduated cylinder gauge. multiply x4 and you've got a very close estimate of displacement


I agree.
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Dougster
post Apr 2 2018, 06:53 PM
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So..bdc on compression stroke and fill the cylinder til the oil just wants to touch the threads of the spark plug hole? Marvel mystery oil or reg dino or doesn't mattee? ... I suppose the specific amount poured into the cylinder would be verification for what was pumped out. Assuming that the rings are healthy, all oil will be evacuated on the upstroke, right? No need to worry about excess left in the cylinder? Is there a special graduated beaker for this purpose?
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r_towle
post Apr 2 2018, 08:30 PM
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Bolt it in, drive the shit out of it.
@700 bucks you can’t lose.
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Larmo63
post Apr 2 2018, 10:49 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

That's what I was thinking. Is the engine clean and tidy? The cleaner it is, the lower the miles it has on it.

Pictures?
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porschetub
post Apr 2 2018, 11:33 PM
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Check it over out of the car ,give it a clean if needs be,replace rocker cover gaskets after checking valve clearances,check over the carb linkage and make sure both carbs are even on the linkages,clean air cleaners etc etc,all this work is easier out of the car.
I purchased my 911 motor with ZERO history,only thing I knew was the plugs were a good colour and the motor was clean,turned out to be a great running motor count myself as being very lucky.
Treat this motor as a total unknown,when you have got it running change the oil and filter after its fully warmed up,good luck.
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falcor75
post Apr 3 2018, 03:06 AM
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You can measure the stroke with a piece of wood or tig welding rod thru the spark plug hole by compairing the bottom/top position of the piston. It wont be 100% accurate but should give you an indication of its a stock 71 mm stroke or a 78 mm stroke.

Other than that, change the oil and filter, adjust the valves, set the timing and fire it up.
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The Cabinetmaker
post Apr 3 2018, 07:09 AM
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Rich said it right!
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maf914
post Apr 3 2018, 08:16 AM
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QUOTE(falcor75 @ Apr 3 2018, 01:06 AM) *

You can measure the stroke with a piece of wood or tig welding rod thru the spark plug hole by compairing the bottom/top position of the piston. It wont be 100% accurate but should give you an indication of its a stock 71 mm stroke or a 78 mm stroke.


It may be time to resurrect the famous chop stick thread. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
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The Cabinetmaker
post Apr 3 2018, 08:40 AM
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QUOTE(maf914 @ Apr 3 2018, 09:16 AM) *

QUOTE(falcor75 @ Apr 3 2018, 01:06 AM) *

You can measure the stroke with a piece of wood or tig welding rod thru the spark plug hole by compairing the bottom/top position of the piston. It wont be 100% accurate but should give you an indication of its a stock 71 mm stroke or a 78 mm stroke.


It may be time to resurrect the famous chop stick thread. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Nooooo! Well, maybe yes. Always need a good laugh!
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Dougster
post Apr 3 2018, 08:42 AM
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I didn't mention, the long block is intact and was mounted on an engine stand when I picked it up, the accessories and tins are all in boxes. The engine is not freshly rebuilt either, you can tell it was used before the car was wrecked.. there's some of the typical grime on it that you see on a used engine. I expected it to be cleaner. The seller said he was going to soda blast the engine and paint the cylinder fins. The fins are kinda rusty looking. That sounded like a good idea but got me thinking, is there any reason an intact pre-assymbled engine can not be blasted before installation? Tape up intake ports? what else? I know getting it started is first priority but I plan on purchasing a blaster soon for general restoration anyway. I'll try to get some pics later today.
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Boomingbeetle
post Apr 3 2018, 09:18 AM
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QUOTE(Dougster @ Apr 3 2018, 07:42 AM) *

I didn't mention, the long block is intact and was mounted on an engine stand when I picked it up, the accessories and tins are all in boxes.


If that is the case definitely pull the head and measure, piece of cake!

If you ever use the graduated cylinder method on any engine, you'll need to glue a hose fitting into the bottom of a 1,000cc graduated cylinder, attach it to a hose that is screwed into the spark plug hole, then fill the cylinder with oil all the way up through the hose and into the graduated cylinder maybe to the 200cc mark. Ideally you want the motor cylinder to be at Bottom-Dead-Center on the compression stroke but that is hard to get perfect. That's why I say start with 200ccs in the beaker before you begin, in case you aren't at bottom. Also make sure you are on compression stroke or the oil will exit through the valves. Turn the motor by hand and look for the difference between lowest cc volume and highest. if it is 500-CCs, you have a 2.0
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porschetub
post Apr 3 2018, 07:03 PM
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QUOTE(Dougster @ Apr 4 2018, 02:42 AM) *

I didn't mention, the long block is intact and was mounted on an engine stand when I picked it up, the accessories and tins are all in boxes. The engine is not freshly rebuilt either, you can tell it was used before the car was wrecked.. there's some of the typical grime on it that you see on a used engine. I expected it to be cleaner. The seller said he was going to soda blast the engine and paint the cylinder fins. The fins are kinda rusty looking. That sounded like a good idea but got me thinking, is there any reason an intact pre-assymbled engine can not be blasted before installation? Tape up intake ports? what else? I know getting it started is first priority but I plan on purchasing a blaster soon for general restoration anyway. I'll try to get some pics later today.


In a way its good the tins are off you can check for oil leaks top and bottom of the barrels,don't worry about corrosion on the barrels that's normal.
Really do take some pics of the motor it will help people advise you better.
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r_towle
post Apr 3 2018, 08:22 PM
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I would never blast an assembled motor
That stuff gets everywhere.
Unless you plan to put a heat disapating coating on the cylinders, there is no value aside from knowing they are currently not rusted.
Clean up the tin, powder coat that. Those should be done now, all at once.
That is well worth it.

If not knowing is going to drive you crazy, pull off the heads and measure your motor properly. It’s a few hours of work to do right.
Then setup the valve train geometry to make it as good as it will get and smile with you great purchase.
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Dougster
post Apr 3 2018, 08:52 PM
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Dougster
post Apr 3 2018, 08:57 PM
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