Bought a 2+L Mystery Engine, what's would you do next . |
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Bought a 2+L Mystery Engine, what's would you do next . |
Literati914 |
Apr 2 2018, 04:49 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,433 Joined: 16-November 06 From: Dallas, TX Member No.: 7,222 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I picked up a complete 2.0+ engine today, came with all sheetmetal, alt, starter, fan, twin Italian 40 IDF carbs, etc. The seller got it second hand from a disabled N. Texas guy who'd crashed his 'real nice orange 914 with spoilers'...he remembered that it was built in Ft. Worth TX and said that it was over-bored but could not remember the details - said "it was built to a 2 point something" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) . Said the PO seemed honest and assured him that it was a fast, strong engine. It has a GA engine number. He was asking $700 for everything and I figured at the very least it was a descent price for a 2.0L + dual 40IDF webbers, so I bought it. I've asked some locals if they knew anything about it and none did.
Whats the general concensus, just do a leak down test, compression test and use it if within spec... or break it down and start taking measurement? |
Literati914 |
Apr 3 2018, 08:42 AM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,433 Joined: 16-November 06 From: Dallas, TX Member No.: 7,222 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I didn't mention, the long block is intact and was mounted on an engine stand when I picked it up, the accessories and tins are all in boxes. The engine is not freshly rebuilt either, you can tell it was used before the car was wrecked.. there's some of the typical grime on it that you see on a used engine. I expected it to be cleaner. The seller said he was going to soda blast the engine and paint the cylinder fins. The fins are kinda rusty looking. That sounded like a good idea but got me thinking, is there any reason an intact pre-assymbled engine can not be blasted before installation? Tape up intake ports? what else? I know getting it started is first priority but I plan on purchasing a blaster soon for general restoration anyway. I'll try to get some pics later today.
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Boomingbeetle |
Apr 3 2018, 09:18 AM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 118 Joined: 1-November 16 From: Orange County Member No.: 20,556 Region Association: Southern California |
I didn't mention, the long block is intact and was mounted on an engine stand when I picked it up, the accessories and tins are all in boxes. If that is the case definitely pull the head and measure, piece of cake! If you ever use the graduated cylinder method on any engine, you'll need to glue a hose fitting into the bottom of a 1,000cc graduated cylinder, attach it to a hose that is screwed into the spark plug hole, then fill the cylinder with oil all the way up through the hose and into the graduated cylinder maybe to the 200cc mark. Ideally you want the motor cylinder to be at Bottom-Dead-Center on the compression stroke but that is hard to get perfect. That's why I say start with 200ccs in the beaker before you begin, in case you aren't at bottom. Also make sure you are on compression stroke or the oil will exit through the valves. Turn the motor by hand and look for the difference between lowest cc volume and highest. if it is 500-CCs, you have a 2.0 |
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